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Southbend 14.5 CL8185C

cbake5379

Plastic
Joined
Feb 3, 2020
Has anyone ever heard or seen a Southbend 14.5 CL8185c?

I recently purchased this lathe, and it works as it should, though it needs some adjustment and possible CrossSlide and compound slide gibs/feed screws replaced. south bend 14.5 (1).jpg

I have done a quite a bit of research and cant find anything on a CL8185C
 
I've got a 185 7' bed. She's stout, and a beauty. A Joy to use (the exception being when the bottom Cone pulley slips).
Only difference I can see is you have the large Micrometer dials.
 
Year born, 1953. For $200, you got screwed. Let me alleviate your sorrow by purchasing it for $400. You won't have to suffer, I will take it off your hands and you will double your money. Everyone wins and everybody's happy!
 
It's a joke, a standard sort of joke here when someone does very well in a tool or machine acquisition.

David

Ah, ok I thought I had done ok based on what I’ve seen 13s go for.

It was set for 3ph so I got a static converter to convert to 220 single ph.

I’m not new to metal lathes, but this is the first SB I’ve used
 
Does anyone know where I could possibly attain a collet attachment for this lathe? If So, what type of collet? I see on southbends site, that a 14.5 can use either a 4 or 5
 
If your 14.5" has a spindle thread of 2-3/8"x6tpi, you will need a South bend 5c adapter. The adapters from a 10L (large spindle 10"), a 13" with 2-1/4"x8tpi (early ones had a 1-7/8" threaded spindle), or a 16" lathe with 2-3/8"x6tpi spindle will fit. I do not know what kind of collets can be used with the smaller spindle on the earlier 14.5 inchers. The adapters sell for too much on e-bay, and usually look beat up and the internal "key" is battered or missing. Try "southbendlatheman", a member here who might have one for sale, or "millermachineandfabrication.com",also a member who makes south bend parts. You'll also need a spindle thread protector, a drawbar, and you'll want a collet rack and collets. PB
 
After using the lathe for some time I must say I am very pleased, working with soft materials like brass and copper. The tailstock keeps coming out of alignment, and is a few thousandths off vertically to the headstock, thus causing my center drills to break.

Any ideas on how to remedy this?
 
Take your tailstock off and examine the base. I think you will find wear on the contact areas of the flat way. There will be wear on the v-way contact area also, but, more noticeable on the flat contact area. Usually you see more wear to the front of the contact area. If that is the case, the "BEST" remedy is to machine a new tailstock base. This will not alleviate any bed wear. However, most will shim between the base and tailstock housing. You should check for ram "droop" as it extends from the barrel of the tailstock housing. If you check your alignment with a test bar and with the ram withdrawn and set your vertical height and the barrel and ram are worn the ram will droop, and usually more as the ram is extended further from the barrel. If barrel is tight in the bore, then I would just shim between the base and tailstock housing. I use taper shim stock, and, as I said earlier, you will usually find more wear towards the front of the base. Shim so center height is .000"-.001" high and you should be good to go. Your vertical should not change when clamped. Hope this helps. PB
 








 
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