Spindle sleeve for MT centers

I recently purchased a SB 10L and I'm in the process of finding the various tooling for it. Two of the things I'd like to have are the MT spindle sleeves(#2 and #3) and the associated parts for their use and attachment. I already checked with Leblond, they want $249 for just the #2 MT sleeve alone. If anyone can point me in the direction of a used one in good shape or provide me with a print of one I'd certainly appreciate it!

Hi There,

Check with Miller Machine and Fabrication:

Milller Machine and Fabrication

They have the reducing sleeves with several different inside Morse Tapers for about $65.00 each.

I hope this helps. Good Luck!
-Blue Chips-
Webb

Chips,

Webb has an excellent suggestion, I have worked with this guy and he is excellent!

His name is Brian Miller.

Ken

They look longer than the sleeves I have, dunno? JRouche


http://cgi.ebay.com/South-Bend-Lathe-Spindle-To-MT3-Headstock-Adapter-NR_W0QQitemZ7540487477QQcategoryZ633QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

http://cgi.ebay.com/South-Bend-Lathe-Spindle-To-MT2-Headstock-Adapter-NR_W0QQitemZ7540487481QQcategoryZ633QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

I guess I didn't check that site out well enough before! Thanks for the link Webb And thank you to JRouche! I must not be typing in all the right keywords when searching for SB stuff.


One question, does it make any difference which size of spindle I have? Mine has the large spindle bore and 2 1/4- 8TPI spindle nose. I should have mentioned that before and forgot. Sure would hate to buy the wrong thing.

Hi There,

The spindle tapers you require are not the one pictured. Look at the bottom of the "Spindle Adapter Bushing" page:

Large Spindle Taper on Newer Models
10" through 16"
Large Taper - 1 Morse Taper $65.00
-2 Morse Taper $65.00
-3 Morse Taper $65.00
-4 Morse Taper $65.00

Click to expand...

If you are unsure, send them an email to make sure they are the correct ones for your lathe.

Good Luck!
-Blue Chips-
Webb

Sweet, and part of it is already finished! That appears to be the cheapest way to go. I need to brush up on my NC lathe programming and this looks like the perfect opportunity! I might even do a combination of hard turn and OD grinding.

Thanks ulav8r!

Webb, thanks for the heads up. I figured that I'd need to email them if I wanted to get the right part.

Hello,i finished making this spindle sleeve for my 10L. I made it exactly as the drawing provided in this post(thank you by the way).It fits perfect in the spindle and a MT-3 deadcenter fits perfect in the sleeve.A test indicator confirms "0" runout.I am very pleased with the results(although it took my a couple of long evenings).However, when i put the faceplate on i have approx.1-9/16" from faceplate to tip of dead center.My lathe dog won't fit on end of stock and hook in the face plate(it's to far out). The only way i can see this working would be to bore the spindle sleeve bigger(still using the MT-3/.602per foot) untill the dead center sits far enough back as to allow the dog to clamp the stock while hooking the face plate.But, if i bore it bigger, it will not have the same dimensions as the drawing and the specs that were provided on this post.Where am i going wrong? Thanks,Keith

A dead center does not need to be hard, make a shorter one out of scrap or shorten the one you have if you don't want to save it. James

Hi Keith,


I want to congratulate you on making your own
adapter sleeve. Making one and having it run "true"
is an accomplishment to be proud of.

In regards to your problem, I have several thoughts.

First, Not all manufacturers MT 3 centers are the same.
some will stick out more than others. Some manufacturers
make theirs longer so that they can be reground (when they
get damage) many times. If you have access to a tool post
grinder, you could regrind the point on the MT 3 center until
it is short enough to work. I would do this to an old center
that already has a damaged point.

Second, in older times, the headstock center was not hardened.
Randal mentioned this. Because the center revolves with the
work, it doesn't need to be hard. Older texts on the subject often
referred to the center in the headstock as the "live" center
because it does revolve. Also the headstock center was left
soft so that the 60 deg. point could be machined in place;
guaranteeing that the point would run true in the spindle as it
revolves. This works even if the sleeve isn't machined concentric.
Therefore, making a "soft" center for the headstock is a viable
answer.

Third, I believe that the Heavy Ten was supplied with a MT 2
sleeve when shipped and the MT 3 sleeve was an "extra"
either purchase after the fact or ordered in addition to the standard
equipment supplied. You could make (or purchase) a MT 2
sleeve. The MT 2 center doesn't stick out as much as the MT 3
center does.

Forth, the "tail" on lathe dogs vary in length. Some are longer
than others. This depends on who manufactured them. But
1 - 9/16" seems a bit long to make up with the lathe dog tail.

Fifth, you could deepen the MT 3 socket as you suggested
and this would work fine. But it would cause any other
MT 3 tooling to seat deeper in the socket as well. This
would only be a problem if you plan to use MT 3 tooling in the
headstock (other than a center).

Sixth, purchase a MT 3 to MT 2 reducing sleeve and use a MT 2 center.
This could induce some error but with an accurate reducing sleeve,
the error would negligent. It would still stick out more than MT 2
spindle sleeve by itself but it may allow the tail on your dogs to engage
the dog driving plate.

Anyway it is late and I can't think of anything else to suggest.
I hope that these ideas will give you food for thought.

Good Luck!
-Blue Chips-
Webb

Thanks for the replies.I started out with 2" round stock,and machined down with my taper attachment arguously taking measurments then adjusting the TPF as i went, until i had reached the exact specs on the O.D.Then i placed it in the spindle and began boring the I.D. MT-3.This was abit more challenging as i had never done a internal taper.Once close, i used a MT-3 reamer to finish exact measurment(By the way, this whole process took me several evenings and one long weekenday).i new at my experience level it would and the $65.00 through Miller was a very fair price.I choose this for the learning process.Paid myself about a penny an hour!
I guess i just assummed it took a MT-3 as that seemed what people always referred to.I have seen both MT2&3 spindle sleeves on ebay now that you've mentioned it.The MT-2 would, i think, have fit better. I have a MT3-2 adapter and a MT2 deadcenter i'll put them in today and see how far they stick out and confirm runout.

Webb, what other tooling would be used in conjunction with this spindle sleeve other than the dead center?Also,i don't have access to a toolpost grinder, but if i where to use a soft deadcenter could i turn it down with my compound rest to 60-degrees? Thanks,Keith

Well,never mind, i guess i need to start getting some sleep at nights rather than hanging out in the garage.It didn't even occur to me until i was sniffin around ebay today when i kept seeing lathe drive plates.These are the ones that only have one slot.Well i put the original 9" 6-slotted face plate on that i believe is used for attaching pieces to.And low and behold, i have a 6" drive plate that come in a box of extras with the lathe.Never paid attention to it because i never had a spindle sleeve.So, i swapped them and the dod and deadcenter work perfectly.Good thing i only charge myself a dollar an hour for my machine work!!! Thanks again for the help.

The use of a soft center in the head stock is advisable. The reason being that every time it is installed, you touch up the 60 degree point to make sure it runs true.

Thanks for the feedback on the drawing. I have not been able to try it out yet and this is the first feedback I have gotten on it. My heavy 10 probably won't be operational for another year at least.