Thanks for all the 9A help! I brought it home, how's it look?

Randall4th · Mar 31, 2019

Thanks for all the information on my other post about how to move a 9A. Two of us brought it home by separating from the cabinet.

Here are some decent size pictures, how does it look? Brand new to this and need an idea of what I've got myself into!

Also came with a fair amount of extras, anything identifiable? Would appreciate the help.

michiganbuck · Mar 31, 2019

looks great .
Fix that broken gear like Iwana10k said.(if lacking how-to find someone who can help).
Be sure both ends of spindle are getting oil..
Gears should have a little slop .002+ or so / not tight.
Most everything needs a oil rag rub.
Find the halfnut dial..or buy one.
Don't wire brush the dial numbers.
Buy and use a good quality drip oil can.
Don't use spray can stuff, or use an air hose on a lathe.
Hold tool bits to a parked bench grinder wheel to get a feel for grinding tool bits.
If you have to take down the head stock be sure to stack the shims so they can go back exactly the same place and side.(make a note what they are and put that note in a safe place. Have a micrometer when dong that, to measure shims..

iwananew10K · Mar 31, 2019

it hard to tell what all you got with it stacked up on top of each other.

But looks like you got all you need, your thread dial is there, and you have the steady rest, decent chucks, both types of collet closers,faceplates,etc.

Get that book and rebuild kit I linked, and read the SB "how to run a lathe"

You can find online scans,but you really should have a paper copy

Shop Tools and Machinery at Grizzly.com

That lathe has sat for quite a while, so you really need to check everything out good before you run it, and that's where the books and kit will come in...make sure you understand the functions and controls BEFORE you power it up.
you do,not necessarily have to tear it ALL down and replace every felt in that kit but for sure needs a flush out and proper oiling...oiling is essential, lots of it, you cannot over oil it.Every time you use it. They bleed oil and that one has sat long enough to have bled out completely and is bone dry.
and, obviously....FIX THAT POWER CORD!!!

SLK001 · Mar 31, 2019

To me, that doesn't look like original South Bend flaking on the ways. It's possible that your bed has been regound/rescraped. If it was done properly, look under the tailstock and carriage for some material that built them back up to proper specs.

iwananew10K · Mar 31, 2019

there is no particular pattern to SB flaking from that time period,but it looks about right for the era(1963)...its just exaggerated by being dry and some light surface rust in the "flakes"

tobnpr · Mar 31, 2019

Definitely not original scrapings IMO (they sure look nothing like those that remain on mine at the ends of the bed, but it's a different vintage)

Take a look at the inside V-way where the tailstock rides. There's a clear horizontal wear ridge at the spot where the tailstock V bottoms out. No way in Hades original scrapings could still be there given visible wear of that depth to the way.

Randall4th · Mar 31, 2019

Thanks for the info. Will definitely pickup some instructions to help get it up and running again.

As far as the scrapings - if they are not original, does it matter? Does it indicate it was badly worn? Or just more of a refurbish of the ways? I’ll try to clean up the end area a bit to remove the grime and get a better picture.

lucky7 · Mar 31, 2019

For a first lathe for a new hand it'll be just fine. Get someone who knows how to take apart the headstock and re-wick it to help you before you turn it on. And obviously fix the electrics. A lathe with some wear like this one is actually better for a newbie so you can learn to compensate. Congrats, enjoy the ride.

L7

Ps, the first lathe I used was a very worn South Bend 9c in my dad's basement. 1/4 hp, lots of wear, a slippery belt... Taught me a lot about tool sharpening and realistic feeds etc. Went from that lathe to a Myford in Junior High shop- more power, less rigidity... More lessons....

Randall4th · Mar 31, 2019

Tried to clean off the area I think you were talking about. Still see the horizontal wear ridge? Thoughts?

tobnpr said:
Definitely not original scrapings IMO (they sure look nothing like those that remain on mine at the ends of the bed, but it's a different vintage)

Take a look at the inside V-way where the tailstock rides. There's a clear horizontal wear ridge at the spot where the tailstock V bottoms out. No way in Hades original scrapings could still be there given visible wear of that depth to the way.

iwananew10K · Mar 31, 2019

Ok, I can see that, and agree it's not original...but don't worry about it...for the price you paid you can't go wrong....even if you abandoned ship and parted it you could double your money easy.

It may work just fine though.

michiganbuck · Mar 31, 2019

Actually I think that is enough said about the scraping.. Its a great learning machine and it has a lot of extra stuff.

Randall4th · Mar 31, 2019

For my own knowledge - anyone able to point out on one of the pictures the wear that you are seeing. I have no clue what I am looking at!

I look forward to get it up and running!

SLK001 · Mar 31, 2019

Randall4th said:
For my own knowledge - anyone able to point out on one of the pictures the wear that you are seeing. I have no clue what I am looking at!

I look forward to get it up and running!

Look at your very first picture in this thread. See the area where the carriage rides that is free of the flaking (this is the area where I first looked)? See how smooth it is? That's wear from the carriage. You can also see less wear from the TS ways, but it is there.

Also, IMO, the people who did the second scraping scraped too deep all over. You should NEVER be able to see shadows in the scraping.

Post a picture of the underside of your TS. To keep a lathe operational that has been reground, you have to build up the underside of the carriage, the HS and the TS. This is because the carriage has to properly mesh with the leadscrew. To maintain mesh, if you drop the height of the bed, you have to increase the height of the carriage the same amount that you dropped the bed.

iwananew10K · Mar 31, 2019

Don't get worked up over it, as long the saddle isn't dragging on the tailstrock flat way it will be ok...really....heck I even had one that was and it would still make parts.

You did good...clean,flush,oil,check mechanical function and run it, have fun!

michiganbuck · Mar 31, 2019

Here find the Army manual http://www.wswells.com/data/9_workshop/CL670Z_army.pdf

Copy save

Ask questions if in doubt about any tear down so you might not break anything...Don't worry about the scraping.. It can be a fine lathe for you.
You might ask here if somebody has the gear you need.

Randall4th · Mar 31, 2019

SLK001 said:
Look at your very first picture in this thread. See the area where the carriage rides that is free of the flaking (this is the area where I first looked)? See how smooth it is? That's wear from the carriage. You can also see less wear from the TS ways, but it is there.

Also, IMO, the people who did the second scraping scraped too deep all over. You should NEVER be able to see shadows in the scraping.

Post a picture of the underside of your TS. To keep a lathe operational that has been reground, you have to build up the underside of the carriage, the HS and the TS. This is because the carriage has to properly mesh with the leadscrew. To maintain mesh, if you drop the height of the bed, you have to increase the height of the carriage the same amount that you dropped the bed.

Here is the underside of the TS

Thanks!

SLK001 · Mar 31, 2019

+1 on the Army manual above. It will help you a lot to visualize how the parts go together. That manual plus the manual mentioned earlier from ebay seller stevewb will help you keep your sanity when trying to disassemble/reassemble your lathe.

Also, I agree to not worry about the flaking, etc. I used a lathe for years before I ever started worrying about bed wear.

michiganbuck · Mar 31, 2019

Likely you computer has ability to magnify, so good to blow up that manual.

In forward gear it ts good to roll the chuck/spindle when changing gears ..just to make the go in easy and be sure they are in.. not so much an a belt machine but it still doesn't hurt to do so. Yes roll-in the back gear also.

Thanks for all the 9A help! I brought it home, how's it look?

Plastic

Diamond

Diamond

Stainless

Diamond

Hot Rolled

Plastic

Titanium

Plastic

Diamond

Diamond

Plastic

Stainless

Diamond

Diamond

Plastic

Stainless

Diamond

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