Wall or vertically mounting the countershaft

Just picked up this 9". I'm thinking I'd like to build a bench for it, but mount the countershaft/motor on the wall behind the bench, or better yet, on an integral "wall" (steel framework at the back of the bench, attached to it) so the footprint of the lathe isn't so deep. Right now it's like 36" deep, which takes up a lot of room. I'd like it to be closer to 20" or so, like a cabinet base lathe. Good idea? Stupid idea? I'm open to suggestions and opinions.

IMO- just use it as is....dont place the bench against a wall, then u you can use the room at the back to mount an arbor press and have a small work surface...it looks like a pretty decent bench.

What he just said.

For the cost and effort to re-engineer the drivetrain (there ARE ways..), you'd be ahead to just use this one and look for a better lathe that left the factory already equipped with an "underdrive" - motor inside the HS-end pedestal.

That need not be a Hardinge. SB's own 10". Most Logans. Rockwell. Clausing (industrial one), Sheldon, many more.

Its possible to get a SouthBend 9" onto an 18" or 20" bench with a home made countershaft. Cross-slide handle does stick out a bit tho'. Done it twice myself with perfectly acceptable results. If you PM me I can send you a PDF of outline concept designs for what I did. Can't just copy. You will need to work out your personal how to based on what you have, can find or (last resort) buy locally. Just to make the effort worth while I arranged a jockey pulley clutch and two speed drive to the countershaft. Using poly-vee pulleys would make life easier as they can be smaller than the A section See ones I used, but such weren't easily found back in the 1970's when I did mine. Concepts can be made without a lathe.

In practice 18" deep is about as shallow a bench as can be used. Significantly less will cause the cross slide back cover to hit the wall at full travel.

Official under drive SouthBend and similar needs pushing 30" anyway so little smaller than a bench version.

Clive

If it's what you want to do - go for it!
Plenty of machine shops were historically run from lineshafts in the rafters.
I'd pull the countershaft and pillow blocks off, or buy/make pillow blocks if they are running in a casting, fix them to your studs. You will need longer belts obviously, and some method of changing it - this can be as simple as an eccentric weight system.

Thanks for the feedback everyone. I think I'll try and make this setup work and get familiar with the lathe before doing any mods. But first I'll be dismatling and re wicking the lathe. This will be my first metal lathe restoration. I've done a bunch woodworking machines, but the resources for the SB machines seems really great.