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What is needed to change to power cross feed

BDogg464

Plastic
Joined
Jul 18, 2018
I have a 1937 south bend 9 workshop lathe with 4 1/2 foot bed. It does not have power cross feed or quick change gearbox. Im not so concerned about the quick change gearbox, but i would like to have power crossfeed. I have a right hand threaded lead screw, but it does not have the channel down it.

What items would be need to change over my lathe to have power crossfeed?

I recently restored this lathe and posted about it. The only thing i changed on it was the headstock (cast bearing surfaces were shot)

I do not know what parts but im assuming the apron and other parts of the saddle would need changing, but not sure if i need the leadscrew with the channel for power crossfeed.

Im new to lathes and appreciate any input people can share.

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"Geared" apron - easily recognized with its clutch knob in bottom center - and the lead screw from 9B or 9A with the right length

You might first FIND OUT from folks like SB man (Ted) if such parts actually were made as early as 1937 before you spend a dime.

You could maybe ease things along if you ALSO had the 9B or 9A saddle and cross slide screw - but don't ASSUME somebody else's saddle will fit just right on your bed
 
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You're easiest and probably cheapest route is to get a lathe that does have those.

In reality, power longitudinal cuts are more useful and improve the look of work more. Power crossfeed is more secondary, and is easier to run by hand and have work nice. This lathe could still be useful in a variety of ways, but I'd have it as back up to a more full featured lathe. I'd use this one for polishing and more simple tasks.

And if you get to rebuilding a more serious lathe, you want a lathe to help you do that, which this could help. I'd look hard at finding something that fits your particular goals, and go through that the same as you did here.
 
I have to agree with John above. First off some saddles are not made for power crossfeed. Look at yours from underneath and see if you can see the crossfeed lead screw where the apron bolts on. If you can Good. If you cannot forget changing it over. Nothing wrong with the correct change gears for longitudinal feeds with the half nuts. One thing is changing aprons is fine but changing saddles is another story. Texasgunsmith has the best answer. Make yours look pretty and sell when you find one with all the bells and whistles.
 
Thanks for the reply guys, told me exactly what i needed to know/hear lol. I guess this was more of a hypothetical question to see what i would be getting into.
I probably won't ever sell this lathe, and probably won't ever buy another. (Im sure im putting my foot in my mouth here) But this lathe was bestowed upon me from a good friend/co-worker after his father passed. I love old machinery and he knew i would fix it up. Aside from the ways having wear, i got it back in pretty good order.

This lathe, will be the lathe, i learn to lathe on. So the low low entry cost of free, aside from the makeover was very attractive.
Bear with me here, i might end up asking a few silly questions while learning/teaching myself as i have no one around to really draw knowledge or in person experience from on this matter. Luckily there is a plethora of books and videos online.

Does anyone have a good suggestion as to which edition of the "how to run a lathe" south bend books would be most applicable to my 1937 9'' workshop lathe?
I see there is quite a few variations of it thru the years and i know the workshop wasn't around long before they became A's, B's, & C's.

The compound gear on the side is a 1 to 6 but most i see are 1 to 5, not sure if that's an indicator to something being different. I also read that around my year lathe it was believed to be a left hand thread on the leadscrew but mine is right hand.
Something else that was different and made me think. When i had to replace the original headstock casting, the new headstock casting came with the forward/reverse change gear assembly. One of the engaging gears was a different size then the original, it was a little bigger. (i put the original gears back)Is it just a different tooth gear people change regularly, or is it in relation to the 1to6, 1to5 compound gear difference i noticed? Again these might be silly question, i apologize im a total newbie to lathes, but a fast learner if i can find the right information. And people to bounce thoughts off of.
 
Here is the gears supplied with the lathe, and the gears currently on the lathe.

32, 32, 40, 44, 46, 48, 52, 54, 56, 60, 64, 72, 80 are the spare gears.

Compound gear 1 to 6 and 116 tooth turning gear on the lathe. 16 tooth gear engaging the 1 to 6 gear going to the lead screw. It is a 24 tooth gear that came on the reversing gear of the newer headstock i got.

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I haven't read all the responses and maybe it was mentioned here on PM in another thread but you'll need the complete saddle assembly with the powered cross slide top.
BUT.. Lessay you get a screaming ebay deal on one and you're all happy. It may not fit the bed as the bottom may hit the bed requiring grinding the bed for clearance.

As others said, sell it and buy another lathe preferably a model A which has all the gimmicks and widgets you're looking for.
 
If 9A parts are compatible, I'd replace with a geared apron and slotted leadscrew to facilitate power turning without wearing down the half-nuts.

I've always wondered how well the half-nuts hold up on these machines where they're used for turning- and not just threading.
 








 
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