What are you guys using to hold taps in the tailstock?

Kevin T · Oct 26, 2021

I have been getting mixed result using a drill chuck in my MT3 tail stock, spinning taps, spinning chucks, etc! Is there a good solution?

PeteM · Oct 26, 2021

I like these. They come in small, medium, and large sizes and have a regular non-slip tap chuck:

Amazon.com: GEARWRENCH Small Tap Adapter - 3882 : Industrial & Scientific

Gear Wrench 3883 GW Medium Tap Adapter - Tap And Die Sets - Amazon.com

GEARWRENCH Large Locking Tap Adapter - 82801 - Wrenches - Amazon.com

Use them with a spring-loaded tap guide (with the concave end showing - it fits the small adapter perfectly) held in the tailstock chuck; along with the Gearwrench holder. You can start the tap by hand, knowing it is perpendicular but also not overly constrained. It behaves like a floating tap holder. From there you can drive it home one of three ways: spinning it in by hand, ratcheting it in, or jogging the spindle.

I wouldn't necessarily suggest getting the tap holders with a big set of their taps - those are mediocre.

David Ferguson · Oct 26, 2021

I just put the tap guide in the drill chuck, with these type of sliding tap handles:

McMaster-Carr

52 Ford · Oct 27, 2021

So, you're using the tailstock to hold the tap, not just center it. In that case, depending on the amount of accuracy you need, what about a socket adapter for the chuck and some tap sockets? No adjustments required, quick to install, etc. I use my set of 8 point sockets (double square sockets) to drive taps in drills and the like all the time.

Amazon.com: Lisle 70500 Tap Socket Set : Tools & Home Improvement

The most common hex to 3/8" adapter you're probably gonna see is 1/4" hex to 3/8". If you want more "meat" on the adapter, try a 1/4" square to 3/8" square adapter chucked in a 1/2" or bigger capacity Jacobs chuck. I think an impact adapter would grip better in the chuck. 7/16" hex is the next common size, after 1/4" hex. Lineman use 7/16" hex with big drill bits and whatnot.

BT Fabrication · Oct 27, 2021

i start the tap by hand and use a tap guide and a tap wrench.

doug8cat · Oct 27, 2021

Those Machine-Mount Wrenches with the stubby guide shown in MM & Carr work great with smaller taps. I have 2 sizes, use them in the lathe and B.P. mill. You can mount the stubby guide in a Jacobs chuck or collet, start tap buy hand then remove the guide grab the post that fits in guide and continue under power. Be careful to remove the cross bar used for hand tapping though.
For larger taps we have a OLD quick change set that can accomodate up to an 1" tap, it allows power tapping and floats to a degree. I cannot recall the name of the system, it is old. If their any interest I can post the name of it.
I also use it in a Cinci Lancer 2000 VMC when I have 1 or 2 holes it is faster than writing a tapping cycle in g-code.
Sounds counter intuitive but is great for certain situations.

Kevin T · Oct 27, 2021

thermite said:
Generically, a "torque control rod". So the MT 3 is not abused.

If you need to do "many"? A speciality tap or die holder instead of a drill-chuck. Or at least a collet system. Ortleib, other proven ones.

Need to do "many, many"? Procunier or Tapmatic head...

.. and move it over to a drillpress or mill.

Handwheel-operated lathe tailstocks are seriously clumsy for this sort of work. That part is hardest to change, no matter what else you improve.

Production tapping machines only RESEMBLE drillpresses, are seriously good at making good threads and not breaking taps.

But even a very modest a drillpress can do tapping waaaay better than a "manual" lathe.

Thanks for the info here. I've never tried to tap with a drill press, I thought the lathe in back gear would be a better tool to use and was surprised that I was having trouble searching for how folks do it!

I have a manual hand tapper that I've used for years on important holes but it takes up precious counter space so it's usually stashed away.

The threads (3/8-16) I needed though were on the end of a 12" long .75 dia rod so the lathe was the best bet for holding the work. The holes came out nice using a big drill chuck in the tailstock. The tap fed in a few threads and I knew they were lined up right but then I had to finish the depth with a tap wrench...

You may have given me a great idea for my next lathe project! A nice custom torque control rod with a delrin insert where it makes contact with my ways!

Kevin T · Oct 27, 2021

thermite said:
I sink those with a handheld. Scintilla-Bosch.
Don't BUY a Bosch made in any other factory BUT "Scintilla".
It's in Switzerland. Same folks as have been making magnetos since forever-ago.

Didn't know one could tap with a drillpress?
8-foot American Radial, sometimes all shift, mining and rail.

Taps above two inches take a lot of muscle in steel!

#000-124 or so, we had a Swiss-made tapper.

Horses for courses.

HA! The make a hole from above continuum

My Drill Press <--------------------------->8' Radial Drill

jim rozen · Oct 27, 2021

If you want to tap small parts in the lathe spindle (not under power of course) you can hold the tap with a regular tap wrench, and use a spring loaded tap guide in the tailstock chuck to keep the tap on center and some force on the tap, so it can be driven forward and back a bit by hand. These are easy to make - this one has a 1/2 inch diameter shank, and the tip can be reversed so it presents a 45 degree male point or a 45 degree female socket.

Scottl · Oct 27, 2021

Not strictly relevant to the OP's situation but for small taps I use a commercially made tap adapter that has a knurled handle that slides on a rod mounted in the tailstock chuck. You grip the handle and then simply let go when the tap reaches depth, stop the lathe and then reverse the tap out by again holding the handle. AND the handle is anodized such a pretty blue color, which of course does not affect function but psychologically it's like the old bit about waxed cars going faster.

And yes, this is done under power as the tool was designed to do. The tap and handle spin harmlessly for a few seconds after letting go.

Scottl · Oct 27, 2021

thermite said:
I sink those with a handheld. Scintilla-Bosch.
Don't BUY a Bosch made in any other factory BUT "Scintilla".
It's in Switzerland. Same folks as have been making magnetos since forever-ago.

Didn't know one could tap with a drillpress?
8-foot American Radial, sometimes all shift, mining and rail.

Taps above two inches take a lot of muscle in steel!

#000-124 or so, we had a Swiss-made tapper.

Horses for courses.

I drill the pilot hole using the DP and then transfer the vise and work to a hand tapper. In both cases stop pins prevent the vise from being spun.

Bill in PA · Oct 27, 2021

I use Scully Jones Morse taper tap holders for tail stock and turret lathe use.

McMaster-Carr

Bill

texasgeartrain · Oct 27, 2021

I'll use a drill press, mill, or lathe for aligning taps, but I never put power to it. I try to have all USA made taps, but pretty much all my taps are "plug" or "taper" taps, which if you look at this link, and look at the beginning of the threads for the difference:
10 Different Types of Thread Taps [Definitive Guide]

Are any of you using power taps, or thoughts on it ?

EmGo · Oct 27, 2021

texasgunsmith said:
I'll use a drill press, mill, or lathe for aligning taps, but I never put power to it.

Really ? One of the joys of life is plugging the motor on a Bridgeport, works slick ! My electronicker friend about crapped his pants first time he saw that but about a month later I caught him doing the same thing

texasgeartrain · Oct 27, 2021

EmanuelGoldstein said:
Really ? One of the joys of life is plugging the motor on a Bridgeport, works slick ! My electronicker friend about crapped his pants first time he saw that but about a month later I caught him doing the same thing

With regular taps though ? I'd expect it to bind and break, how the chips getting out ?

EmGo · Oct 27, 2021

texasgunsmith said:
With regular taps though ? I'd expect it to bind and break, how the chips getting out ?

Heck, I'll power tap with about anything. Not bottoming taps, taper better than plug but otherwise ... hand taps, spiral point, whatever. Depends more on material than anything else. Screechy-ass stainless can be scary but most materials is a pickanick. And on a blind hole, I'll just hit the first few threads and finish by hand but in general, never had a problem.

Give 'er a shot with something like a 1/2" coarse for a first try, thru hole. You'll be addicted quick.

(Bridgeport, back gear and slowish. In a drill press I'd use a tapping head.)

Kevin T · Oct 28, 2021

texasgunsmith said:
I'll use a drill press, mill, or lathe for aligning taps, but I never put power to it. I try to have all USA made taps, but pretty much all my taps are "plug" or "taper" taps, which if you look at this link, and look at the beginning of the threads for the difference:
10 Different Types of Thread Taps [Definitive Guide]

Are any of you using power taps, or thoughts on it ?

So the link shows a square shank spiral flute tap, which I've never had the chance to try but would like too! How would you hold this in a tailstock?

I have tapped a lot of holes for a regular guy with hobby's and I'm also used to making my own bottoming tap by using an abrasive disc on a grinder to chop off a regular tap. I've not used the middle type but would if it was on something ultra critical.

I like the "All USA Taps" rule.

Using my lathe under power (back gear) seemed like a natural fit. My 16" lathe tailstock is 100 lbs and slides nice with a helping hand from behind to get things started. I can get right in there with my eyes and help the TS feed into the material but after about 5 threads getting started it was too much for the drill chuck in the TS.

texasgeartrain · Oct 28, 2021

A drill chuck is not enough imo. In some cases I can spin a round shank drill bit in a chuck, if the drill bit does not have the 3 cuts for jaws to grab onto. I would think it worse trying to hold the shank of a tap.

Search this on ebay, I cant link it for some reason: Lathe Tailstock Tap & Die Holder Kit MT3 Shank Threading Tapping Set Wooden Box

I would think square drive collets if you don't want to squeeze/hold the tap in the collet.

Maybe spring collets, but I would guess er collets are the ticket. MT3 er32 collet set up:
Precision ER32 Collet Set MT3 Shank Chuck & Spanner W/Box For Milling Machine US | eBay

I didn't check all the sizes, or size ranges. Might need to expand that a bit.

On a Bridgeport I could use r8 spring collets, but would probably grab better with er32's or 40's.

If I recall Kevin, you have a new quill in TS. If thats right, the taper is probably real nice. But if your chucks and such slip, might want to run a finish reamer in it. Or blue the mating parts to see how well your contact area is in the the taper.

EmGo · Oct 28, 2021

I'm sure this is osha disapproved but it works ... lathe in back gear, chamfer hole, squirt goop on tap, put the center into the divot in the end of the tap, bring up to the part, put a crescent wrench on the flat in the left hand, crank the handwheel with the right hand to advance the tap into the hole. When you get to depth, pull the crescent wrench off the tap and let it spin with the part while you stop the spindle.

We're talking South Bend here, right ? Not 3" diameter taps and 15 hp at the spindle ?

yardbird · Oct 28, 2021

This is what I use.

Brent

The trick to tapping on a Bridgeport without a tapping head.

What are you guys using to hold taps in the tailstock?

Stainless

Diamond

Cast Iron

Stainless

Titanium

Titanium

Stainless

Stainless

Diamond

Diamond

Diamond

Hot Rolled

Titanium

Diamond

Titanium

Diamond

Stainless

Titanium

Diamond

Titanium

Similar threads