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Wiring, this should be straight forward...

grannyknot

Aluminum
Joined
Oct 18, 2015
I'm just not seeing the answer to the problem even though I know it's probably staring me in the face.
Leeson single phase, 1/2hp, 115v motor P1,P2,T3,T4,T5,T8
Cutler-Hammer 5441H27A fwd/off/rev switch.
Found a couple of different diagrams in the archives, have tried them all but all I can get is fwd or rev, not both.
In the pics you'll see, cable coming in from the top right is from the wall socket, cables coming in from the top left are from the motor, the colours of wires are just what I had on hand and have no significance.

White neutral lead goes to P1
Black hot lead goes to center pole
P2/T3 are are twisted together and not attached to any terminal.
Thanks,
Chris

DSCN1200.jpg
DSCN1202.jpg
 
Allan, my switch has 9 terminals, so using your diagram I would connect nothing to the 3 center terminals?
Thanks,
Chris
 
Allan, my switch has 9 terminals, so using your diagram I would connect nothing to the 3 center terminals?
Thanks,
Chris

No, your switch only has 6 terminals that had screws originally. Someone added the gold colored screw in the left column, remove it. All the soldered jumpers should stay, that is how the manufacturer converted a 3 pole double throw switch into this particular switch pattern. The little jumper in the middle that uses the screws should be removed.

allan
 
Okay, added the extra wire for T3/P2 and triple checked all connections,
when I throw the switch into Fwd the house beaker trips immediately,
when thrown into Rev the motor turns the lathe Fwd.
Also, got rid of the gold coloured screw and the jumper between 3&4.
 
There's several ways to do this, but I can tell you one. I gotta say, though, your wiring worries me; you should have safety grounds carried through the switch.

Anyway, what you want to do is flip-flop the start wiring (T5 and T8) and make/break the hot lead (the black wire in the power cord) to both the start and run windings. You can leave the neutral power lead (the white wire) connected.

So, put the jumper back from bottom center to middle center. Connect the black power lead to the bottom center screw. Connect one end (P2/T3) of the run winding to the bottom right.

Connect T5 to the upper right screw. Connect T8 to the middle right screw.

Connect the white power lead and the other end of the run winding (P2/T3) to the upper center screw.

If the directions are wrong, reverse T5 and T8.

Do something about that green wire. If you must use it for current, label it or color it black with a Sharpie. But, run an external safety ground in that case (not good, but safer than no ground). McMaster sells 5 conductor power cord that does this job nicely.
 
Big Gem, that was the ticket! Nothing happened on the first try but humming then it occurred to me that P1 should be twisted together with T4/T2. Also, the whole circuit is properly grounded including the switch housing, the ground from the motor and the ground from the socket are screwed into the base of the switch housing underneath the drum itself, you just can't see them in that pic. Grounds are always the first thing I install on every circuit.
I have also removed the green wire that had current running through it.
Thank you guys, chips are soon to be flying.
Chris
 
kitno455 is right. I had a giant brain fart. The white power lead should never be connected to the switch. It should go on through to P1 at the motor.
 
And Allan's disbelief that it would run with P1/T4/T2 connected sent me back down stairs and I threw the switch and to let it run for a full minute this time, as you suggested the internal motor breaker tripped.
So I have connected the white neutral lead straight through to P1 at the motor. P2 is connected to upper center, T3 to bottom right, T5 to middle right, T8 to upper right and Black hot lead to lower center.
With T4/T2 twisted together all I get in fwd or rev is a hum.
Thanks,
Chris
 
Ah, for the love of mike, I think one thing and say another. Let me try one more time, then I'll shut up.

So, put the jumper back from bottom center to middle center. Connect the black power lead to the bottom center screw. Connect T2/T4 to the bottom right.

Connect T5 to the upper right screw. Connect T8 to the middle right screw.

Connect the white power lead to P1 at the motor.

Connect P2/T3 to the upper center screw.

If the directions are wrong, reverse T5 and T8.

I've read this over three times and think I've said what I mean. Fingers crossed.
 
Done, that's got it and I let it run for 5 min. in both directions.
Thank you boys, Man the last Furnas drum switch I did was quite straight forward compared to this one.
Chris
 
Whew! I can do this when I use my hands. It's harder when I have to use my brain. I've had a couple motors where I just used two toggle switches (a DPDT for reversing and a SPDT for on/off) and that always seemed easier to me.
 
A diagram of my switch based on Big Gems writeup. Thanks BG.

First... It works.. Little unexpected on how it reverses.

I struggled with my wiring for some time looking at the rough diagram on post 2 and the different (corrected) write-up on post 13 in this thread and after remembering my Left from my Right, but got it working and here is how my switch looks in it's working states



Motor is 110v Leeson Farm Duty Motor
Model m6c17fb11j
Switch is a cutler-hammer 5441h27a
wired for 110v reversible (works but not instant as the motor must nearly stop to reverse)

Using Big Gems write up
************
So, put the jumper back from bottom center to middle center. Connect the black power lead to the bottom center screw. Connect T2/T4 to the bottom right.

Connect T5 to the upper right screw. Connect T8 to the middle right screw.

Connect the white power lead to P1 at the motor.

Connect P2/T3 to the upper center screw.

If the directions are wrong, reverse T5 and T8.
************
 

Attachments

  • Cutler-Hammer switch with Lesson Farm Duty M6c17FB11J 110v.jpg
    Cutler-Hammer switch with Lesson Farm Duty M6c17FB11J 110v.jpg
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