Die blocks/plates

Looking for small die blocks/ plates to mount punch&die (1/2" dia). Planning on using Ironworker type p&d. If you have any other suggestions, I'd be interested. Looking to start with apprx. 1K holes and not thrilled by drilling.Thanks for help, advice.

Are you looking for die shoes or sets?

http://www.anchorlamina.com/p_diesets.html

Why have you chosen ironworker type tooling if you plan on building a die set? The die is fine but the punch presents mounting problems. It would be much easier to use a standard headed punch and make a simple holder for it which is then bolted and doweled to the upper shoe.

You haven't stated what type of press you will be using or material size and thickness so it is hard to say on mounting the die. The clearance you will be working with determines the easiet way to mount the die to the bottom shoe.

The other thing about ironworker tooling is that it won't last as long as good punch press tooling. Depending on the material type and thickness, you can go thousands of holes between sharpenings with good tooling.

A few more details about what you are planning to do and we can give you more information.

Les

What I plan on working is 3/16 & 1/4 in mild steel strap to hold pipe fencing to wood posts. Conduit hangers are not strong enough, so customer wants heavier material. Not having an iron worker, was contemplating using hyd press with the punches. Same as for bending shapes, have started building form jig. No particular reason for ironworker punches other than "cheaper", and perhaps a little more forgiving. Thanks again for any help, as I am probably in up to my waist on this.

For 1/4" max thickness, you might consider a manual punch like a roper whitney number 20. This is a 20 ton, manually operated punch- you bolt it to a workbench or hold it in a vise, and turn the handle, and it punches a hole. They use standard ironworker punches, availabler from Cleveland punch.
They are often available used or on ebay for a couple of hundred dollars.
Yes, they require muscle to use, but thats supposed to be good for you, and its cheaper than paying for a gym membership.
But they work, right out of the box, so to speak, without engineering, rebuilding, testing, and so on.
For smaller quantities of holes- 20 to 50 at a time, they are surprisingly quick, and easy to cobble up stops and tables with a little scrap metal, a few visegrips, and maybe a stick welder.