FS: "L" Series Spanners
Close
Login to Your Account
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 25
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Hampton, Virginia
    Posts
    2,495
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    201
    Likes (Received)
    199

    Default FS: "L" Series Spanners

    Still selling these "L" Type Spanners used on lathes with Long Taper spindle noses. All my old posts are no longer showing photos. You can read some comments from buyers here - Click Here

    I currently sell 4 different sizes but can pretty much custom burn any size or style wrench needed as long as you can use the sizes of material I stock. My spanners are sent to you fully cleaned up and ready for use. They are not machined but you can see the quality of the burned surface in the attached photos.

    I burn these spanners from either AR400 and A514 (T1) plate depending on what material I have on the torch table at the time. I cut the spanners in both 3/8" and 5/8" Thick. I make wear plates for Concrete Mixers and cut the wrenches as a side business.

    These are some super heavy spanners and are guaranteed for life to any dedicated and active PM member. These spanners are CNC burned and cleaned up nicely. If the torch has some minor blowback I will TIG the spot and grind it smooth. If it's major the spanner goes in the scrap bin.

    Current Prices without shipping. Please email me with your shipping address for a quote. Click my avatar for email information.

    3/8" Plate
    L00 - $25.00
    L0 - $28.00

    5/8" Plate
    L1 - $48.00
    L2 - $61.00

    img_3358.jpg

    img_3359.jpg

    img_3353.jpg

    img_3350.jpg

    img_3360.jpg



  2. Likes 4GSR, M.B. Naegle liked this post
  3. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Texas
    Posts
    435
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    9
    Likes (Received)
    106

    Default

    Bought one of these a couple of months ago. Great quality. Was shocked at how large it was for an L0 spindle.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  4. Likes Walter A liked this post
  5. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Michigan
    Posts
    178
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    10
    Likes (Received)
    21

    Default

    Just got my L1 spanner. These are really nice quality parts. Props to Walter for a good product. No relation, just a happy customer.

  6. Likes Walter A liked this post
  7. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Houston, TX USA
    Posts
    30,434
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 86turbodsl View Post
    Just got my L1 spanner. These are really nice quality parts. Props to Walter for a good product. No relation, just a happy customer.

    Now don't forget it turns up, over and AWAY from you to loosen

  8. Likes Walter A, Hodge liked this post
  9. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Michigan
    Posts
    178
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    10
    Likes (Received)
    21

    Default

    Haha! I did check John.

  10. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Texas
    Posts
    2,355
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1795
    Likes (Received)
    1023

    Default

    I got a couple of these awhile back for our L00 and L1 spindles. They work great, even on spindle nuts that had a little hammer/chisel action in the past.

  11. Likes Walter A liked this post
  12. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Hampton, Virginia
    Posts
    2,495
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    201
    Likes (Received)
    199

    Default

    Thanks all! Can you tell that a Machinist is doing the flame cutting?

    Walter

  13. Likes M.B. Naegle liked this post
  14. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Portland, OR USA
    Posts
    46
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    5
    Likes (Received)
    7

    Default

    Just another plug for Walter. I’ve been using the L0 wrench I got from him for months now and it’s really a nice tool.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  15. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Colorado
    Posts
    7
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    4
    Likes (Received)
    6

    Default

    Just wanted to post up a very positive review of the spanner I received from Walter. Very nice item and easy to order from him. I powder coated mine:


  16. Likes Walter A, rustytool liked this post
  17. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Hampton, Virginia
    Posts
    2,495
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    201
    Likes (Received)
    199

    Default

    Thank you very much. I like the powder coat finish!

  18. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Virginia
    Posts
    1
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    1

    Default

    I received my L0 wrench from Walter last week and i was very impressed with the quality of the wrench and the fast shipping, thanks again Walter.

  19. Likes Walter A liked this post
  20. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Michigan
    Posts
    9
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    0

    Default

    My L0 spanner arrived in a couple of days! Part is very nice and BIG. Pic of it on my LeBlond lathe. Not the fault of the spanner, but I haven't been able to break the collar free. I used it in the setup shown in the pic and was beating on the L0 spanner with a 4lb hammer to no avail. This after having applied PB blaster for several consecutive days. Any ideas what else I can try???20200208_161602.jpg

  21. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Hampton, Virginia
    Posts
    2,495
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    201
    Likes (Received)
    199

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by agftemp View Post
    My L0 spanner arrived in a couple of days! Part is very nice and BIG. Pic of it on my LeBlond lathe. Not the fault of the spanner, but I haven't been able to break the collar free. I used it in the setup shown in the pic and was beating on the L0 spanner with a 4lb hammer to no avail. This after having applied PB blaster for several consecutive days. Any ideas what else I can try???20200208_161602.jpg
    I take it that the nut has not turned at all? I guess you can hit the nut OD with a large brass or dead blow hammer to try and break the threads loose. You can also attempt to use the spanner to knock the nut briefly in the opposite direction. The issue with a hammer is the spring in the spanner does not all the shock to reach the nut. You might slip a pipe over the spanner handle and pull like crazy while another person smacks the nut OD. Just make sure you brace yourself. Other than that I got nothing.

    Spanner should hold up ok to quite a bit of abuse. I make them from either A514 (T1) or AR400 whichever is on the table at the time. Both are pretty tough. Maybe another member can chime in with other ideas.

  22. #14
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Damascus, MD
    Posts
    1,484
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    4283
    Likes (Received)
    849

    Default

    After having sprayed a lot of penetrating oil around the nut, I would position the spanner wrench so that the handle would stick out at approximately 90° on the operator side and apply significant upward pressure with a piece of 4x4 lifted by a car or hydraulic jack. Let it rest in that position overnight and, if the torque over time has not been enough, with the same setup still in place, I would start hammering on the other notches, one at the time, with a brass drift pin and a relatively heavy hammer (and judicious use of force).
    If also that were to fail, I would use a torch heating the nut in a very localized area, right over one of the notches, that is, where the material is the thinnest.

    Paolo

  23. #15
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    New Hampshire
    Posts
    56
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    10

    Default

    Not to be insulting but, are you really REALLY sure that you are turning
    it in the right direction? Clockwise, looking at the lathe head stock viewed
    from the tail stock. This from someone who gets such things wrong on occasion.

  24. Likes rustytool, M.B. Naegle liked this post
  25. #16
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Michigan
    Posts
    9
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    0

    Default

    Walter
    I agree the springiness of the spanner isn't allowing the shock load to act on the nut. I have removed many rusted fasteners with an impact gun that I couldn't budge with a breaker bar.

  26. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Michigan
    Posts
    9
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    0

    Default

    Good question, I checked several videos on YouTube before getting crazy with the hammer and confirmed I was going in the right direction!

  27. #18
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Hampton, Virginia
    Posts
    2,495
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    201
    Likes (Received)
    199

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Mr_CNC_guy View Post
    Not to be insulting but, are you really REALLY sure that you are turning
    it in the right direction? Clockwise, looking at the lathe head stock viewed
    from the tail stock. This from someone who gets such things wrong on occasion.
    Looking at his photo the spanner I sold him is the one closest to the headstock and it's headed in the right direction. First thing I looked at. I have seen many operators try it wrong. Good question though!

  28. #19
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Hampton, Virginia
    Posts
    2,495
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    201
    Likes (Received)
    199

    Default

    I guess the only thing I can add, and I have never run across it, take the spanners off and look for any hidden fasteners. I guess it's always possible someone added on to the nut even though it does not make sense. Also check the chuck backing plate for a fastener sticking out and binding the nut. I've seen cases where the nut is tight but that usually involves rust and your lathe does not look like a rust bucket. Hope some clown did not add locktite. Only heat will defeat that!

    Also Payola MD had a couple of ideas. Heat should be a last resort though.

    Good luck,
    Walter

  29. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Virginia
    Posts
    233
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    162
    Likes (Received)
    36

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Walter A View Post
    I guess the only thing I can add, and I have never run across it, take the spanners off and look for any hidden fasteners. I guess it's always possible someone added on to the nut even though it does not make sense. Also check the chuck backing plate for a fastener sticking out and binding the nut. I've seen cases where the nut is tight but that usually involves rust and your lathe does not look like a rust bucket. Hope some clown did not add locktite. Only heat will defeat that!

    Also Payola MD had a couple of ideas. Heat should be a last resort though.

    Good luck,
    Walter
    It looked like two hook spanners but the lower one must have engaged a pin or bolt in the back plate.


Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •