FS: "L" Series Spanners

Walter A · Nov 17, 2019

Still selling these "L" Type Spanners used on lathes with Long Taper spindle noses. All my old posts are no longer showing photos. You can read some comments from buyers here - Click Here

I currently sell 4 different sizes but can pretty much custom burn any size or style wrench needed as long as you can use the sizes of material I stock. My spanners are sent to you fully cleaned up and ready for use. They are not machined but you can see the quality of the burned surface in the attached photos.

I burn these spanners from either AR400 and A514 (T1) plate depending on what material I have on the torch table at the time. I cut the spanners in both 3/8" and 5/8" Thick. I make wear plates for Concrete Mixers and cut the wrenches as a side business.

These are some super heavy spanners and are guaranteed for life to any dedicated and active PM member. These spanners are CNC burned and cleaned up nicely. If the torch has some minor blowback I will TIG the spot and grind it smooth. If it's major the spanner goes in the scrap bin.

Current Prices without shipping. Please email me with your shipping address for a quote. Click my avatar for email information.

3/8" Plate
L00 - $25.00
L0 - $28.00

5/8" Plate
L1 - $48.00
L2 - $61.00

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TravisR100 · Nov 17, 2019

Bought one of these a couple of months ago. Great quality. Was shocked at how large it was for an L0 spindle.

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86turbodsl · Nov 18, 2019

Just got my L1 spanner. These are really nice quality parts. Props to Walter for a good product. No relation, just a happy customer.

johnoder · Nov 18, 2019

86turbodsl said:
Just got my L1 spanner. These are really nice quality parts. Props to Walter for a good product. No relation, just a happy customer.

Now don't forget it turns up, over and AWAY from you to loosen

86turbodsl · Nov 19, 2019

Haha! I did check John.

M.B. Naegle · Nov 19, 2019

I got a couple of these awhile back for our L00 and L1 spindles. They work great, even on spindle nuts that had a little hammer/chisel action in the past.

Walter A · Nov 19, 2019

Thanks all! Can you tell that a Machinist is doing the flame cutting?

Walter

depmco · Nov 21, 2019

Just another plug for Walter. I’ve been using the L0 wrench I got from him for months now and it’s really a nice tool.

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Erichimedes · Dec 10, 2019

Just wanted to post up a very positive review of the spanner I received from Walter. Very nice item and easy to order from him. I powder coated mine:

Walter A · Dec 10, 2019

Thank you very much. I like the powder coat finish!

mspalding62 · Jan 21, 2020

I received my L0 wrench from Walter last week and i was very impressed with the quality of the wrench and the fast shipping, thanks again Walter.

agftemp · Feb 8, 2020

My L0 spanner arrived in a couple of days! Part is very nice and BIG. Pic of it on my LeBlond lathe. Not the fault of the spanner, but I haven't been able to break the collar free. I used it in the setup shown in the pic and was beating on the L0 spanner with a 4lb hammer to no avail. This after having applied PB blaster for several consecutive days. Any ideas what else I can try???

Walter A · Feb 8, 2020

agftemp said:
My L0 spanner arrived in a couple of days! Part is very nice and BIG. Pic of it on my LeBlond lathe. Not the fault of the spanner, but I haven't been able to break the collar free. I used it in the setup shown in the pic and was beating on the L0 spanner with a 4lb hammer to no avail. This after having applied PB blaster for several consecutive days. Any ideas what else I can try???View attachment 278103

I take it that the nut has not turned at all? I guess you can hit the nut OD with a large brass or dead blow hammer to try and break the threads loose. You can also attempt to use the spanner to knock the nut briefly in the opposite direction. The issue with a hammer is the spring in the spanner does not all the shock to reach the nut. You might slip a pipe over the spanner handle and pull like crazy while another person smacks the nut OD. Just make sure you brace yourself. Other than that I got nothing.

Spanner should hold up ok to quite a bit of abuse. I make them from either A514 (T1) or AR400 whichever is on the table at the time. Both are pretty tough. Maybe another member can chime in with other ideas.

Paolo_MD · Feb 9, 2020

After having sprayed a lot of penetrating oil around the nut, I would position the spanner wrench so that the handle would stick out at approximately 90° on the operator side and apply significant upward pressure with a piece of 4x4 lifted by a car or hydraulic jack. Let it rest in that position overnight and, if the torque over time has not been enough, with the same setup still in place, I would start hammering on the other notches, one at the time, with a brass drift pin and a relatively heavy hammer (and judicious use of force).
If also that were to fail, I would use a torch heating the nut in a very localized area, right over one of the notches, that is, where the material is the thinnest.

Paolo

Mr_CNC_guy · Feb 9, 2020

Not to be insulting but, are you really REALLY sure that you are turning
it in the right direction? Clockwise, looking at the lathe head stock viewed
from the tail stock. This from someone who gets such things wrong on occasion.

agftemp · Feb 9, 2020

Walter
I agree the springiness of the spanner isn't allowing the shock load to act on the nut. I have removed many rusted fasteners with an impact gun that I couldn't budge with a breaker bar.

agftemp · Feb 9, 2020

Good question, I checked several videos on YouTube before getting crazy with the hammer and confirmed I was going in the right direction!

Walter A · Feb 9, 2020

Mr_CNC_guy said:
Not to be insulting but, are you really REALLY sure that you are turning
it in the right direction? Clockwise, looking at the lathe head stock viewed
from the tail stock. This from someone who gets such things wrong on occasion.

Looking at his photo the spanner I sold him is the one closest to the headstock and it's headed in the right direction. First thing I looked at. I have seen many operators try it wrong. Good question though!

Walter A · Feb 9, 2020

I guess the only thing I can add, and I have never run across it, take the spanners off and look for any hidden fasteners. I guess it's always possible someone added on to the nut even though it does not make sense. Also check the chuck backing plate for a fastener sticking out and binding the nut. I've seen cases where the nut is tight but that usually involves rust and your lathe does not look like a rust bucket. Hope some clown did not add locktite. Only heat will defeat that!

Also Payola MD had a couple of ideas. Heat should be a last resort though.

Good luck,
Walter

alum100k · Feb 10, 2020

Walter A said:
I guess the only thing I can add, and I have never run across it, take the spanners off and look for any hidden fasteners. I guess it's always possible someone added on to the nut even though it does not make sense. Also check the chuck backing plate for a fastener sticking out and binding the nut. I've seen cases where the nut is tight but that usually involves rust and your lathe does not look like a rust bucket. Hope some clown did not add locktite. Only heat will defeat that!

Also Payola MD had a couple of ideas. Heat should be a last resort though.

Good luck,
Walter

It looked like two hook spanners but the lower one must have engaged a pin or bolt in the back plate.

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