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WANTED: Webb/Whacheon/Mori Seiki parts

rpseguin

Stainless
Joined
Jun 28, 2006
Location
Napa, CA
I’ve got a Webb/Whacheon WL-435 lathe 17”Gx40” (Mori Seiki) that I’d like to find a few things for.
It has an A1-6 spindle nose.

-DRO and scales (travels: 12” x 39”)
-collet setup (taper adapter and collet closer): 5C, 16C, 2J or 3J
-A2-6 or A1-6 spindle nose tooling (faceplate, chucks, ...)
-taper attachment
-follower rest?

I’m also looking for the speeds/feeds/threading chart plate (goes in the blue highlighted area) or if you can take a good, hires picture:

e5e167c2ef49ce847d6df8ba438897ac.jpg
 
The feed/speed chart is available new from Whacheon, not cheap but available. I know this because I purchased one along with some additional parts I needed.
 
The feed/speed chart is available new from Whacheon, not cheap but available. I know this because I purchased one along with some additional parts I needed.

Yeah. I know.
$225 seems a bit steep for a plate...
Did you get yours yet?
Is it a metal plate?
 
So, I just called Greer and theirs is a decal for $50.
He told me Whacheon’s metal plate is not blue anymore, but gold and hard to read.

Reviews/comments on the Greer decals?
 
I’d like to see the metal one, doesn’t seem like a decal would hold up long.


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Me too!
I’d like to see both.
The Greer guy said you can get about 4 years out of the decal.

It isn't any harder to do such things in the "Metalphoto" process - same photography and such - but..

You gets an Aluminium plate, not plastic, and unlike simple screen-printing with a "paint-like" image + mebbe clear-coat acrylic, the Metalphoto finishing process overlays the image with clear hard-anodize.

Either way, once you have the photo master, it is relatively cheap - compared to deep-etch or engraving - to have SEVERAL identical plates made-up at one go for easy replacement as and when they become degraded.

2CW .. and a few "Metalphoto" items under-roof now around 50 years old and still good. Strong caustics should be avoided of course. It's still only Aluminium, after all, so plastics do have their place, too!

:)

Page Two;

Once "the numbers" off any relevant plate, good photo or otherwise, are in-hand, one can set them up in a spreadsheet or word-processer, massage the spacing, fonts, and lines, then print your own "master" for any type of photo reproduction.

Meanwhile, a copy can be laminated, and you can put the lathe to work right away with that info, mounted onto the lathe or not.
 
Thanks!

I did some web searches, but, so far, all the Metalphoto places I've gone to have a "Request a Quote" page that makes it feel like they are expecting to print thousands of plates instead of a small order/run few.
I'll try calling them and talk to an actual person and see what they recommend.

Or, are the metal prints out of photo/print labs (Costco, Walmart, ...) the same thing?


It isn't any harder to do such things in the "Metalphoto" process - same photography and such - but..

You gets an Aluminium plate, not plastic, and unlike simple screen-printing with a "paint-like" image + mebbe clear-coat acrylic, the Metalphoto finishing process overlays the image with clear hard-anodize.

Either way, once you have the photo master, it is relatively cheap - compared to deep-etch or engraving - to have SEVERAL identical plates made-up at one go for easy replacement as and when they become degraded.

2CW .. and a few "Metalphoto" items under-roof now around 50 years old and still good. Strong caustics should be avoided of course. It's still only Aluminium, after all, so plastics do have their place, too!

:)

Page Two;

Once "the numbers" off any relevant plate, good photo or otherwise, are in-hand, one can set them up in a spreadsheet or word-processer, massage the spacing, fonts, and lines, then print your own "master" for any type of photo reproduction.

Meanwhile, a copy can be laminated, and you can put the lathe to work right away with that info, mounted onto the lathe or not.
 
Or, are the metal prints out of photo/print labs (Costco, Walmart, ...) the same thing?

They could be. The process is well-suited to "onesies".

I used to DIY my own as I had a link to a "real" print-shop with a huge through-the-wall "darkroom camera", lots of large format positive and negative sheet film in stock, etc.

Even so, the "Metalphoto" output part of it was done with a "kit" that sold for about 25 bucks and up back in that era.

I had access to Macbeth Arc lamps, later-yet, Xenon that "offset" print shops used to expose their "plates" (some of which were metal, others just paper).

ISTR sunlight works, too as an "actinic" (UV rich) light source - it just wants longer exposure times.

The rest one can do in the kitchen sink as the chemistry is not particularly nasty or hard to handle.
 
I removed the headstock cover and took some pictures.
The gears all look in great condition and the oil is a good color, but I need to add more.

2c74331998995685148023e4a6b96b72.jpg


9bd69646055bb49e1bfb91e0e4e40fd5.jpg


cd2db4a19319dd931685ef99cb86bc1d.jpg
 
Nice- nothing like a nice gear box and clean oil. The inside of my Namsun looks very similar.
I would drain the oil and fill with new unless you know for sure what’s in it. A 5 gallon pail of AW 32 is like $50 at Tractor Supply
I flushed a couple gallons through and then filled - I still have some left in the pail( mines a 16”)


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I like the idea of flushing it out.
AW32? Since I moved, there’s a Tractor Supply not too far from me.

The manual for my lathe specifies Idemitsu Kosan brand Daphne Mechanic oil 44 or equivalent:

7a3a57d3ac4e0ecab8b268b2974e508c.jpg


The plate on the back pretty much says the same:
c87591ad323e5f6d1b3f9037d9d64266.jpg


I was going to look at getting a pail of Mobil DTE Light (the manual has typos).

Nice- nothing like a nice gear box and clean oil. The inside of my Namsun looks very similar.
I would drain the oil and fill with new unless you know for sure what’s in it. A 5 gallon pail of AW 32 is like $50 at Tractor Supply
I flushed a couple gallons through and then filled - I still have some left in the pail( mines a 16”)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 








 
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