WTB 24" Camel back or other straight edge for scraping

Seeking a 24" straight edge for scraping project.
Possible cast machinist level usable.
Thx

I suggest you look up Denis Foster and look into one of his Featherweight series. I have seen them and they are very well designed. Also, look at Gary Martin's straightedges. I believe his Web site is martinmodel.com but they seem to be down at the moment. Richard King also sells excellent straightedge castings.

metalmagpie

Thanks for the tip!

If you can go a little smaller, I’d suggest Denis Foster’s 18” prism design. Handles very well and can also be your level. If you need 24” then Richard King’s HKA design is what I’d suggest. At 30” really the only good design at the moment is Stephen Thomas design, but this has been off the market for awhile.

If you don’t mind buying from England I have another new maker to suggest.

Really, right now, we are spoiled for choice!

L7

Btw- what project are you planning to use the straight edge for?

wordsmith07 said:

Seeking a 24" straight edge for scraping project.
Possible cast machinist level usable.
Thx

Click to expand...

I have a 24” and a 48”. If you will send me an email, I can send you pictures and details.
Ted
[email protected]

My 24" is called a HKA-24 and it was designed to scrape the top of the knee of a Bridgeport knee type mill. I sell castings, but can get the ground and if you want it scraped, I can teach you how or do it myself. Email me at [email protected]

Thanks all, contacting y'all about my needs.

Originally to work the top of a Bridgeport knee. Made a straight edge from a piece of granite, got the ways flat and level with each other, Now stumped by the dovetails that bow inward in the middle. Need prism shaped object or straight edge with mitre.
Thx

My reply posted at end

wordsmith07 said:

Originally to work the top of a Bridgeport knee. Made a straight edge from a piece of granite, got the ways flat and level with each other, Now stumped by the dovetails that bow inward in the middle. Need prism shaped object or straight edge with mitre.
Thx

Click to expand...

Wither you use a dovetail straight edge, or a regular straight edge and a prism straight edge together, use a micrometer with dowel pins in the corners of the dovetail or some other indicator set-up to measure the dovetails and determine where to scrape. Printing with a straight edge is mainly about making something flat. Getting those flat surfaces square to each other is a separate measuring process. With a knee, you'll also want to verify that the top of the knee is square with the columb V-way, if not a little high in front (consider how much weight will be put on it when it's assembled and in use). For this a lot of guys will utilize a large granite or scraped cast iron square and a test indicator.

Your goal is to get the two dovetail surfaces parallel to each other and parallel to the bottom flat surface, so however you measure them width-wise, be sure you are measuring a the same height. After you have the knee straight, you can use it as a gauge to check the saddle's squareness as you scrape it's surfaces flat.