WTB for Brown and Sharpe 618 Surface Grinder Wheel flanges or hubs
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  1. #1
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    Default WTB for Brown and Sharpe 618 Surface Grinder Wheel flanges or hubs

    Just purchased and older 618 Micro grinder and no hubs for wheels included. Looking to purchase and removal tool
    Thx

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    Quote Originally Posted by wordsmith07 View Post
    Just purchased and older 618 Micro grinder and no hubs for wheels included. Looking to purchase and removal tool
    Thx
    Keep an eye on eBay, they're on there all the time. I built up a nice collection pretty cheap that way. Find the deals where they sell 3 or 4 at a crack and you can score some good deals. Often available with diamond wheels too.

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    $24 each is a good price..if they are the right ones, they look right from here.
    Should be 1" at the big end For B&S and most surface grinders about 6-18

    Cincinnati mounts ae about 7/8 at the big end of taper.

    grinding wheel adaptor for 1.25" bore wheel | eBay
    grinding wheel adaptor for 1.25" wheel. 6 available. Good condition.



    *wheel flange nut should be a LEFT hand thread

    *Most that you find will be left..But for double-end grinder like the Brown&Sharpe 13 grinder both lefts and rights were made.
    *Almost all surface grinders take a Left-hand flang nut. (so running they tighten-not fly off.


    Just bought..Then hand turn the spindle a number of times. should feel smooth as Silk..and even then it may not be good.

    Good to jog start any SG spindle even a new one to about half speed -let slow and then start it full.

    Older B&S? Be sure the table oil pots are full if an iron oil way machine, ping pong ball make an oiler if the are missing. I have seen guys use an oak wood dowel... IM not recommending that. Floating plastic would be better than wood. Way oil is good/best.

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    I've had good luck with these on my Boyar-Schultz- Amazon.com: HHIP 2420-0320 F320 Grinding Wheel Adapter: Industrial & Scientific

    Note that the removal threads are a bit different and you should make your own removal tool.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Conrad Hoffman View Post
    I've had good luck with these on my Boyar-Schultz- Amazon.com: HHIP 2420-0320 F320 Grinding Wheel Adapter: Industrial & Scientific


    Conrad's AMAZON find is a great deal.

    Note that the removal threads are a bit different and you should make your own removal tool.
    I'm not sure if the pin holes are suitable for this wrench with having .200 pins?

    Universal Black Finish Steel Adjustable Face Spanner Wrench Pin Pliers For Round Nuts with Drilled Holes (5mm) - - Amazon.com

    Here is a factory wrench
    WRENCH SORKO Surface Grinder Grinding Wheel | eBay

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    Quote Originally Posted by michiganbuck View Post
    $49 for used or $54 for new here.
    McMaster-Carr
    One usually wants two of these and a puller also.
    Same source for the hubs.
    Bob

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    Quote Originally Posted by CarbideBob View Post
    $49 for used or $54 for new here.
    McMaster-Carr
    One usually wants two of these and a puller also.
    Same source for the hubs.
    Bob
    Not a bad idea to have two such wrenches because you can set one at the rear of the mount and one at the front in the flange nut.

    This can be needed if someone over-tightened the flange nut and you cant turn it loose.

    Yes, often one can catch the rear of the motor but this is not a good practice IMHO.

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    My base for two of these wrenches is how do you tighten a wheel on the adapter or hub without?
    Same with removal. Both should be done off the spindle. I wince if I see otherwise.
    It is sometimes needed in plated or others where min runout critical but I hate to do it.
    Bob

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    Agree and when you are putting a thin diamond or abrasive parting wheel.

    I have seen so many thin parting wheels broke over time, that is a shame.

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    Here are pictures of some tools for the B&S or other surface grinders. The top wrench in the first picture is an old Parker-Majestic wrench that fits the original B&S No. 2 spindle nut and the wheel hubs. Two of these wrenches came with my grinder and they fit two notches in the wrench rack on the grinder base. The other wrench is a Sopko with the same hub end and a socket that fits the hex nut on the end of the XLO motorized spindle I fitted to my grinder. The socket also fits the screw in the Sopko hub puller.

    Below the wrenches are a black Sopko hub puller and the bare steel puller I made before I found the Sopko puller.

    These are not for sale, just trying to show what you need to look for.

    Larry

    dsc01841.jpg dsc01842.jpg

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    I made my own wrench; block of aluminum with a couple holes for dowel pins and milled clearance for the middle of the hub. Someday I'll screw a handle to the side.

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    Default Thanks guys

    Thanks for all the recommendations and especially the pics and links. Only grinder I had experience with previously was a Grizzly 6X12 and had no idea what the B&S hubs/sleeves looked like. All responses were extremely helpful. About to get it cleaned up and hope to power it soon! Supposedly the hydraulics were all good

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    Do you remember the thread size on puller? Thanks so much for pics

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    Never mind. Thx Found one on McMaster Carr

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    That Amazon one is M26x1.5- there's a print in the images. The Sopko is a bit of a mystery but I think it's 0.975" x 16 tpi, at least that's what the one on my Boyer Schultz is. My puller is snug at 0.980" so 0.975" is probably the correct number. Unless it's supposed to be something else!

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    Tightening with the mount on the machine is also very common for wheels of 1/2" and thicker (some thinner wheels for an experienced guy). you hole the wheel in one hand and the standard length wrench in the other and make it as tight as you can that way. Then you set the wrench out end on a block and make it a little tighter with two hands on the wheel, not crazy tight. I have been doing that for years and have never had a wheel spin on the mount.
    I hear guys talk about a wheel spinning on the mount with just fire-up or run down and wonder how these guys can bring anything with the wheel being that loose.
    Yes, I should tourqe test a wheel I have tightened someday and see how tight my way makes a wheel.

    And yes I have and do take wheels off some times, and two wrenches tighten and take off.

    Good to mark wheels for "Mount up", and have a mark on the mount and another at the spindle end. That way gravity sets the wheel on the mount the same way and when you remove and remount the wheel Balance, OD and face will run closer to your last dress.

    Tightening nut direction is Very important and should go to tighten-way with fire up and the with grinding.

    Having grinders that go both ways I like to paint the left way nut with res lay-out die, or some other red so some guy does not try to crank it the wrong way.

    Mounts that have multiple screws/bolts holding tight you try to make them all the same, not a bad idea to use a torque wrench or devise a feel method to make them the same.

    As you likely know to ring test wheels, check the RPM spec on the wheel, and wear safety glasses.

    Don't grind the chuck right off the bat because that takes some planning.

    A name-brand 46K white wheel is a good all-around wheel.

    I like a mount that can take a 3/4 wheel because that can also take a 1" recess wheel, That makes a grinder more versatile, Yes you may Need a spacer to use a 1/2, 1, 1/8 wheel.

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    I want my wheels tight, but not crazy tight. FWIW, if you use a VFD, the speed ramps up and down, so nothing ever spins on start-up, but you still don't want it to shift while grinding!

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    Oh, I mentioned a recessed wheel in my post 16.

    Having a recessed wheel can be important because one may have to grind a part that has a step shoulder/feature where the topping grind intersects/bumps to a taller portion on the part. With a normal wheel the flange nut is/may be in the way of grinding up to that part step. The recess wheel allowed the flange nut and the end of the mount to be below the front face of the wheel.

    Good also to know that grinding up to a step on a part the inside corner will have a radius so will not be a dead sharp inside corner. A 46 grit wheel at best might have a .020 and a 100gt might be able to produce a /007 radius. (yes I have to dig out my chart to get the exact radius amount.) This is why mating parts may spec having a bevel at male the touching corner.

    It is good to hand feel the step shoulder with a parked wheel, not try to grind to it because that will make a hard hit of wheel to the shoulder. You wheel feel the shoulder and note the dial, and begin to be careful .003 - .005 away from the shoulder.

    Good to front face dress a wheel that is going to grind up to a shoulder.

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    Default Grinder

    Thanks so much all.

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    OT:
    Why the handle wordsmith? are you a writer?


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