WTB: Grinding Wheel Balancing Stand and Grinding Arbor

I got a Brown and Sharp 510 micromaster surface grinder (amazing machine by the way) a while back. I am in need of a grinding wheel balance stand now for my wheels, as well as an arbor. I am not using any wheels over 7" OD and 1" thick. I think the arbor is a 3:1 taper IIRC. I am in Lake Charles, Louisiana but hoping someone will ship to me. Let me know what you got, please.

Thanks,
Seth

You are welcome to scoot over the 150 miles and haul off my too large one Seth - though it has no arbor

There is absolutely no way I would ship this anywhere

johnoder said:

You are welcome to scoot over the 150 miles and haul off my too large one Seth - though it has no arbor

There is absolutely no way I would ship this anywhere

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How big is too large? I am not over there very often, but I know someone who is and may be able to get it for me.

LanierKnives said:

How big is too large? I am not over there very often, but I know someone who is and may be able to get it for me.

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I'd guess it would do a 24" wheel

Here it is with stuff piled on. End of tape is 20" above slab, so about 16" high

Big enough to be a sit down if you throw on a piece of plywood

I'll guess it weighs 75 Lbs

I have the B & S 612 SG her in my shop, it's cousin. I've never had a need for a wheel balancer nor had any issues with out of balance wheels that I've used. Been able to hold some nice finishes with it. Just have to dress your wheel when you mount a new one.

How does balancing a wheel like that work?

Do you add material to balance or remove?

For a 7" wheel you might crush dimple the wheel with a blunted (dull) carbide drill at the heavy side mark the up place at mounting so you might mount the same way next mounting. Often a name brand 7" wheel will be pretty near good balance with no balancing.
When you take the wheel off the mount and put it back on put the mount-up mark and the wheel up mark both pointing up to retain some/most of the balance.
Ring test the wheel, be sure blotters are on both sides, that the mount faces are smooth and bug free, and the wheel is mounted tight so it want slide on the mount (as tight as you can make it with one hand on the wheel and one on the wheel wrench.. then rest the wrench on a block and with two hands on the wheel make it a little bit tighter.
Have a safe place to store a stays-mounted wheel so it will not get dropped as you can't ring test it with not taking it off the mount.

A 1" wide recess wheel is very handy because the wheel face is out side the wheel mount. With this you can make a step inside shoulder with not hitting the wheel mount.

Homebrewblob said:

How does balancing a wheel like that work?

Do you add material to balance or remove?

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There are wheel hubs with moving balance weights built-in. They allow adjustment without modifying the wheel itself.

Larry

7 by one a big wheel for this machine.
Did you dress the sides? Is this true to the rotation?
Balance is in more than one plane and knife edge or rolls are limited.
If in good condition the spindle itself can be a balancing arbor. Many starts and stops with a mark of where it wants to stop.
Once done and balanced do not take the wheel off the adapter hub. Hubs are so cheap compared to time.

8" or smaller it's more dressing technique than balancing. Make sure the wheel is tight then dress the OD then dress both sides right up to the blotters. Light drag with a stick of wood to knock off danglers and then off you go.

These guys still make them. A&W Precision, Inc.