220v-wired dual voltage motor stooped - return to 110v wiring?

Many years ago, I rewired the 110/220v motor (GE) of my Craftsman air compressor to run on 220v power. Worked fine until just recently: It wouldn't turn on (although I can easily rotate the motor shaft manually). So, one by one, I replaced the check valve, both capacitors, & the pressure switch. Still won't start. Using a multimeter, I confirmed 110v power in each of the 2 power legs to & through the On/Off switch & even at the connection terminals on the motor itself. So I concluded the motorcitself is shot & that all I can do is replace the motor or just buy a new compressor. Either will cost more than I'd like to have to spend.

Then it occurred to me that I had read somewhere that these motors are dual voltage because they have 2 sets of internal wirings, rather than just one set.

So now I'm wondering if the motor might work if I just change the motor's wiring back to work with 110v current instead of 220v current?

It's not much trouble to rewire it ( I still have those directions), but I'd also have to buy & install a new 110v cord & plug.

Of course, I don't want to waste either my time or money if there's no way this might work. So I'd appreciate others' thoughts.

So, if I'm right about the motor having 2 sets of internal wirings, then I'm guessing both are required for 220v & only one is required for 110v, so maybe only one wiring set is at fault & preventing it from starting under 220v power. If that's right & if just one of the 2 sets of wirings is damaged, then it seems like I'd have a 50% chance that the other set is still good & might allow the motor to run using 110v power. On the other hand, I'm no electrician or electrical engineer, so my assumptions about all this easily may be wrong.

So I wanted to see if someone might be able to tell me whether there's any actual chance that returning it to run under 110v power might bring this motor back to life?

Thanks

yes, there are two windings, in series for "220", and parallel for "110" (which still uses both windings).

If the windings are good, then you might have a bad connection at the join between the windings, which would keep it from running.

If it just will not start, there may be a capacitor in the start circuit which needs to be replaced.

Do you have an ohmmeter?

Would you rather just replace than fix?

In your place, I'd check if the motor is able to conduct current, and keep tracing until I found where it would not. Than make the decision.

It would not work on 110V if it did not work on 220V, per above. Does the motor make any noise, like hum when power is applied or nothing. A bad start capacitor or centrifugal start switch would cause it to hum and not turn. Other thing to check on these smaller motors is they often have a thermal over load button that can fail open. If you have one remove the wire connections and check it for continuity with an ohm meter. Could also check the windings for continuity. I am assuming this is a 1 or 1.5 Hp motor, so replacements should be reasonable vs. taking it to a motor shop for repair.

Used electric motors are available cheaply via Craigslist, et. al.