Before I pull the trigger (Teco VFD)
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    Default Before I pull the trigger (Teco VFD)

    I am looking at these two TECO L510 VFDs.

    1st - 1Hp 4.3 amp Teco-Westinghouse, L510-201-H1, 1 HP, Variable Frequency Drive 230 Volt, 1 Phase Input, IP20, at De

    2nd - 2hp 7.5 amp Teco-Westinghouse, L510-202-H1, 2 HP, Variable Frequency Drive 230 Volt, 1 Phase Input, IP20, at Dea

    I will be using this VFD for a Clausing 5310 lathe with an existing 1954 3 phase motor (0.75 hp; 2 amp at 60 hz).

    It is my understanding most say double your hp for the VFD, but what you really should look at is amps. If this is true, I should be good with the 1hp/4.3amp VFD, correct?

    Ideally, I'd like to initially hook up the original fwd/off/reverse switch to get the lathe up and running.
    In the future, I may set up a set of push button Fwd/Rev/off/jog/potentiometer. I imagine both of these VFDs could do that?

    Thanks in advance for any advice.

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    I am not an expert, but my understanding is that most of these VFDs up to 3HP are already de-rated. So nameplate spec does not have to be doubled for your application. I am running a 1HP Automation Direct VFD on a 1HP 3PH lathe motor. No issues in 6+ years running.

    Perhaps the experts will chime in and comment. But I would go with the 1HP unit for your 3/4HP motor.

    Best Regards,
    Bob

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    Some have only single phase input and are rated for full power when fed from single phase (obviously).

    Some have three phase input but are also rated for full power off single phase - moderately uncommon. Check the listing.

    Some have three phase input and need to be derated. This can apply for all sizes, even small ones. Do not assume.

    The manufacturer will have documentation.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rjs44032 View Post
    I am not an expert, but my understanding is that most of these VFDs up to 3HP are already de-rated. So nameplate spec does not have to be doubled for your application. I am running a 1HP Automation Direct VFD on a 1HP 3PH lathe motor. No issues in 6+ years running.

    Perhaps the experts will chime in and comment. But I would go with the 1HP unit for your 3/4HP motor.

    Best Regards,
    Bob
    What are you using for fwd/rev/stop, etc.? aftermarket switches or original lathe switches?

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    Quote Originally Posted by agshooter View Post
    What are you using for fwd/rev/stop, etc.? aftermarket switches or original lathe switches?
    Digging wire off OEM isn't a hard requirement.

    IF the OEM are in the right LOCATION for safety and ease of operation?
    Either of a VFD or a DC Drive needs so very little power for controls it can use very shallow-depth switches.

    IOW, you can leave OEM alone, fab a mount to put those slender switches right in front of the OEM ones, not have to alter a well-thought-out "reach" nor mess with old wires.

    IF.. the OEM are NOT in a safe and convenient location?

    Now is your chance to locate the VFD (or DC Drive) controls in a BETTER position.

    Up to you and whatever you have "inherited" any given machine-tool.

    Some are great as-is. Some are truly lousy.

    Your environment. Your rules.

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    I am using aftermarket switches:

    1 Push On / Push Off for Start / Stop. This is a heavy duty switch. It came out of a foot-switch.

    1 momentary contact switch normally-open for jog.

    1 pot for speed control. I think it called for a 10K pot. Don't recall. It was a linear pot I had laying around.

    1 toggle switch with center location for Fwd / Rev.

    Hope this helps.


    Best Regards,
    Bob

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    Quote Originally Posted by rjs44032 View Post
    I am using aftermarket switches:

    1 Push On / Push Off for Start / Stop. This is a heavy duty switch. It came out of a foot-switch.

    1 momentary contact switch normally-open for jog.

    1 pot for speed control. I think it called for a 10K pot. Don't recall. It was a linear pot I had laying around.

    Hope this helps.


    Best Regards,
    Bob
    I can't see using high-volt, high-amp switches for low-volt, low-Amp controls, but it ain't my shop.

    W/R potentiometers (AND NOT Rheostats), most VFD and DC drive are actually right flexible. They might ask for a 5K or 10K and work OK off a 1K or a 20K.

    Some of mine are the "slider" type made for Audio studio control panels. Long ones. Very long! and then you add a lever... Those make it easier for me to get finer adjustment without going over or under, also make it more readily visible where they are set at.

    "Hope THAT helps"



    It really is up to what YOU find the least distracting as you do the actual work.

    Same as choice of footwear... undershorts.. or even wives! Some advice, folks ain't in a hurry to offer!

    If you try it and do not like it? Do it over some other way.

    It ain't NEAR as expensive as a de-vorce! DAMHIKT!


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    Quote Originally Posted by thermite View Post
    I can't see using high-volt, high-amp switches for low-volt, low-Amp controls, but it ain't my shop....
    I did not use High-volt switches. These components come from the music industry (one of my prior pursuits). They are durable but designed for low voltage applications.


    Best Regards,
    Bob

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    Quote Originally Posted by rjs44032 View Post
    I did not use High-volt switches. These components come from the music industry (one of my prior pursuits). These foot switches are durable but designed for low voltage applications.


    Best Regards,
    Bob
    You could be on the right track, then.

    One of the issues is oxide film vs bifurcated wiping action. Studio audio & video thru MIL apps, telco, to heavy power, here.

    I like "premium grade" components (Bournes, Alps for pots, etc.) because I don't like doing stuff a third time.

    I do take TWO goes at it for granted, tend to breadboard stuff and try it before committing, nearly always find the first go lacking in one way or another.

    "Try it". If you wait until you have thought EVERYTHING through, s**t never gets done at all.

    PS: Couple items you might want to stash a few of in your "Hell Box":

    - Oil and coolant protection for toggle switches:

    https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...iABEgILSfD_BwE

    - Quick slap-down, weapons-system style:

    Toggle Switch and Cover - Illuminated (Red) - COM-11310 - SparkFun Electronics

    Store-bought eStops and compactly-built "rotary" disconnects that fit into standard boxes.

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    Agree on the oil-coolant protection. I designed my panel to be angled away from the chip pan. Easy access but little chance of contamination.

    I used premium microphone cable for all connections. Wasn't necessary. Probably could've used Cat5e. But it was on hand and collecting dust anyways.


    Best Regards,
    Bob

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    Quote Originally Posted by rjs44032 View Post
    Agree on the oil-coolant protection. I designed my panel to be angled away from the chip pan. Easy access but little chance of contamination.

    I used premium microphone cable for all connections. Wasn't necessary. Probably could've used Cat5e. But it was on hand and collecting dust anyways.


    Best Regards,
    Bob
    Most of the remoted interfaces are double-buffered if not also differential. Highly noise-immune.

    I still have the remains of a large spool of "Beldfoil" data cable I once needed for touchy TTL up in the attic. Mostly, I use CAT5s in the screened or stranded "patch cable" version. For the longer life whilst living with flex.

    But that's because I like my controls right on the apron.

    And it moves!


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    Quote Originally Posted by agshooter View Post
    I am looking at these two TECO L510 VFDs.

    1st - 1Hp 4.3 amp Teco-Westinghouse, L510-201-H1, 1 HP, Variable Frequency Drive 230 Volt, 1 Phase Input, IP20, at De

    2nd - 2hp 7.5 amp Teco-Westinghouse, L510-202-H1, 2 HP, Variable Frequency Drive 230 Volt, 1 Phase Input, IP20, at Dea

    I will be using this VFD for a Clausing 5310 lathe with an existing 1954 3 phase motor (0.75 hp; 2 amp at 60 hz).

    It is my understanding most say double your hp for the VFD, but what you really should look at is amps. If this is true, I should be good with the 1hp/4.3amp VFD, correct?

    Ideally, I'd like to initially hook up the original fwd/off/reverse switch to get the lathe up and running.
    In the future, I may set up a set of push button Fwd/Rev/off/jog/potentiometer. I imagine both of these VFDs could do that?

    Thanks in advance for any advice.
    I've set up a Teco L510. These are specifically rated for converting 1 phase in to 3 phase out at the published horsepower. So for your application, the L510-201 will fine to run a 3/4HP motor. The only difference between these two models is the rated horsepower/amperage, so features and wiring are identical. I haven't tried to implement a jog function so I'm not sure how that would be set up. (My lathe has a clutch so jog isn't needed)

    I use latching switch rather than momentary contact so a specific off button isn't needed. E-stop is a normally closed switch that interupts the common connection (can't remember whether this one uses common ground or common Vcc of the top my head). As I recall, an On/Off switch plus a Forward/Reverse switch is on of the diagram options.

    You can google search for the installation manual, which will have example wiring for switches. You will have to program the VFD so that the switches work the way you want, in other words they have several (5?) generic digital inputs, and you program what those inputs do unless you just work with the default settings. For example on a gear head lathe I have mine set so that one switch is run forward, one switch is run reverse, and two inputs are connected to a rotary switch that selects between 40Hz, 60Hz, 80Hz, or pot selected speed.

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    I just came across this other option. I like the idea of plugging into a laptop to make programming easier.

    Thoughts? Compared to the Teco?

    https://www.automationdirect.com/adc...300a04p2s2nb20

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    WEG's are OK, although I haven't done any installs with them (just helped a few others that have used them). I do not recommend the Teco L510 for lathes because it does not support an external braking resistor often needed for quicker stops where there is more momentum in the system with spinning chucks. As long as the VFD is rated for single phase (or a derated 3 phase input in accordance with the manufactures manual) and rated for the motor amps it will work just fine. You might consider the next size up VFD if you are thinking of going to a larger 3 phase motor down the line. VFD's variable speed is nice, but below a motor's base speed (60 Hz) the Hp drops off in a linear fashion below the base speed and torque fall off depends on the motor specs.

    Programming via the front panel takes almost no time, in particular on the simpler VFD's where you do not have a lot to tweak. You are also not interfacing with any controllers or anything fancy. That being said, I found the WEG user manual to be poor at best. Teco, and most other VFD manufactures do a much better job. You might look at the Teco E510 series, E510-201-H-U. Review the manuals, and also when you purchase do they offer technical support and warranty.

    On the switch gear, you need to give some thought to how you want switch the VFD low level inputs. They are programmed for different function. Typical is 2 wire control, requires a sustained on signal to run in that direction (Forward/Reverse). Fine with say a spindle switch until you hit an E-Stop or do something and then hit a reset with the spindle in the forward/reverse position, then the lathe starts up and takes a piece of you with it. There is 3 wire control, which uses monetary buttons for run/stop, and typically a sustained switch for reverse. On a lathe I usually use 2 wire control with a simple latching relay system, which prevents restart with a reset or power up. Switch gear, do not use old burnt up switches that do a poor job of low voltage low amperage VFD input signaling. Automation Direct has some decent 22 mm metal switch gear that works well, I also use Idec 22/30mm which is quite a bit more expensive. Most anything will work well enough, but you want to use a decent external speed pot that won't bounce the contact and will last. Linear, usually 1-2W, typically in the 1-5K range.

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    Quote Originally Posted by agshooter View Post
    I just came across this other option. I like the idea of plugging into a laptop to make programming easier.

    Thoughts? Compared to the Teco?

    https://www.automationdirect.com/adc...300a04p2s2nb20

    Many of the VFD manufacturers have something similar, although various tools will be easier or more complicated to use and to download or find/get access. I don't have side-by-side experience with a lot of others. Teco grew out of (bought out?) Westinghouse and in my mind is a known and reasonable economy brand. Everybody and their brother now seems to be offering some sort of VFD, going to be hit or miss on whether anyone on PM is familiar with any specific offering.

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    Quote Originally Posted by agshooter View Post
    I just came across this other option. I like the idea of plugging into a laptop to make programming easier.

    Thoughts? Compared to the Teco?

    https://www.automationdirect.com/adc...300a04p2s2nb20
    This is the one I have: https://www.automationdirect.com/adc...micro/gs1-21p0

    It powers my 1hp 3ph inverter duty motor on my Sheldon lathe. As I said before I have had no issues with it in 6+ years of use. I liked the drive because it had 4 Digit display, Jog, and programmable RPM display settings.

    That is a GS1 series drive. They also have GS2 series that has remote control panel.

    Automation Direct also had excellent customer service and offered assistance with drive choice and setup for your applications. I have no affiliation. Just satisfied customer. When I get around to powering my other 3PH machine tools it will be with AD drives.

    I have not used Teco drives but have heard good things about them.

    Best Regards,
    Bob

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    Quote Originally Posted by agshooter View Post
    I am looking at these two TECO L510 VFDs.

    1st - 1Hp 4.3 amp Teco-Westinghouse, L510-201-H1, 1 HP, Variable Frequency Drive 230 Volt, 1 Phase Input, IP20, at De

    2nd - 2hp 7.5 amp Teco-Westinghouse, L510-202-H1, 2 HP, Variable Frequency Drive 230 Volt, 1 Phase Input, IP20, at Dea

    I will be using this VFD for a Clausing 5310 lathe with an existing 1954 3 phase motor (0.75 hp; 2 amp at 60 hz).

    It is my understanding most say double your hp for the VFD, but what you really should look at is amps. If this is true, I should be good with the 1hp/4.3amp VFD, correct?

    Ideally, I'd like to initially hook up the original fwd/off/reverse switch to get the lathe up and running.
    In the future, I may set up a set of push button Fwd/Rev/off/jog/potentiometer. I imagine both of these VFDs could do that?

    Thanks in advance for any advice.
    Look at the data you posted, I have highlighted the pertinent info for you. It's right in the description of the VFD.

    If the VFD already SAYS it is for single phase input, that means the VFD mfr has ALREADY taken care of the necessary issues that would otherwise require over sizing. That's fairly common on drives that are 3HP 230V and under. It used to be universal that you got that on those small 230V drives without asking, but now most mfrs sell 2 different versions; one for single phase input, a different part number for 3 phase input. Yours are already the single phase input version.

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    I went with the 1HP Teco L510.
    Wired it up tonight and motor runs good.

    Now, I am trying to wire in the original drum switch to the VFD. (will make a separate post)

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    Quote Originally Posted by agshooter View Post
    I went with the 1HP Teco L510.
    Wired it up tonight and motor runs good.
    Now, I am trying to wire in the original drum switch to the VFD. (will make a separate post)
    Download the pdf doc from their website. Mine came with a pamphlet but the website doc included quite a bit of additional documentation. Just google “Teco l510 manual” to find it.

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    Got it hooked up. S1 and S2 were already programmed to work with Fwd/Rev. I just had to reprogram that the power was external switch.
    Not difficult, just digesting and learning the new to me language of VFD speak.
    Thanks for the help everyone.


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