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Bridgeport rotary 2 phase

Looks like you have here a classic rotary phase converter... built by a practical and intelligent individual to serve a functional purpose well!

Some would scoff at using wood as the base, but it does provide a certain amount of damping of motor vibration- it won't rattle like steel on steel! $500, for a guy who knows how to build an RPC from his junk box would seem a bit high, but since someone else did the build, it's not bad. A commercially-built one would be a whole lot more, and be no more effective!
 
Looks like you have here a classic rotary phase converter... built by a practical and intelligent individual to serve a functional purpose well!

Some would scoff at using wood as the base, but it does provide a certain amount of damping of motor vibration- it won't rattle like steel on steel! $500, for a guy who knows how to build an RPC from his junk box would seem a bit high, but since someone else did the build, it's not bad. A commercially-built one would be a whole lot more, and be no more effective!

Thanks for the comments, but 500.00 was for the Bridgeport and converter, seemed fair to me. Don't know what the market will bare.

Wood just seems easier to mount boxes, didn't think of metal!

Converter does seem to make a bit of bearing noise, but the builder said to bring it back, as the bearings can't be lubricated, weird?

Now, I just need to buy some way oil
 
Thanks for the comments, but 500.00 was for the Bridgeport and converter, seemed fair to me. Don't know what the market will bare.

Wood just seems easier to mount boxes, didn't think of metal!

Converter does seem to make a bit of bearing noise, but the builder said to bring it back, as the bearings can't be lubricated, weird?

Now, I just need to buy some way oil

Nice units!

As to noise, a look at the motor's bearings is in order. I built my first RPC using a 5 hp Boston Gear Motor. When it first ran, it had a high pitched whine that changed in frequency now and then. I disassembled the motor and checked the bearings. They were sealed type ball bearings and both of them were rough. A visit to the bearing shop for new ones, and after replacement, the motor is very quiet.

I had the same problem with my second RPC using a new old stock 7.5 hp Baldor motor. It overheated after some five minutes of operation. That one has open rollers inside. The grease was all dry. A clean up and lube with the proper grease and it's qiet and runs cool.

Good luck.
 
Nice units!

As to noise, a look at the motor's bearings is in order. I built my first RPC using a 5 hp Boston Gear Motor. When it first ran, it had a high pitched whine that changed in frequency now and then. I disassembled the motor and checked the bearings. They were sealed type ball bearings and both of them were rough. A visit to the bearing shop for new ones, and after replacement, the motor is very quiet.

I had the same problem with my second RPC using a new old stock 7.5 hp Baldor motor. It overheated after some five minutes of operation. That one has open rollers inside. The grease was all dry. A clean up and lube with the proper grease and it's qiet and runs cool.

Good luck.

Thanks, I guess that's what he meant, when he said you can't grease bearings. Wonder how hard it would be to install new bearings, just a puller, right?
 
bearong numbers

When looking on a bearing for the numbers be careful and look on the bearing not on the seal if seals are used. The number on the seal is the seal number, it can be the same as the bearing but it's possible it is not. Many of the inch series bearings were made from metric bearings that were near the inch size, ID and OD were ground to inch and the metric bearing seal was used. I always measure the ID and OD to determine size. Other dimensions also change bearing number like width of inner or outer ring. I do have 2 bearing manuals that list bearing numbers as to size of just about every bearing made prior to 1995 when I bought the set. Feel free to message me if you need help.
 
bearing numbers

When looking on a bearing for the numbers be careful and look on the bearing not on the seal if seals are used. The number on the seal is the seal number, it can be the same as the bearing but it's possible it is not. Many of the inch series bearings were made from metric bearings that were near the inch size, ID and OD were ground to inch and the metric bearing seal was used. I always measure the ID and OD to determine size. Other dimensions also change bearing number like width of inner or outer ring. I do have 2 bearing manuals that list bearing numbers as to size of just about every bearing made prior to 1995 when I bought the set. Feel free to message me if you need help.
 
Thanks, I guess that's what he meant, when he said you can't grease bearings. Wonder how hard it would be to install new bearings, just a puller, right?

Not hard. A little heat and cold applied and the interference fit breaks and bearings slid off and on . I have done over a half dozen motors with no puller, don't even own one.

When removing apply force on the inner race if you want to keep the bearing, otherwise use either the inner or outer race.

When installing always apply force on the inner race.
 








 
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