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Can I replace an armature with one that has less commutator segments?

quinnkarnas

Plastic
Joined
Apr 10, 2019
Can I replace this armature with one that has less commutator segments and keep the same field? The one im replacing is out of a chineese dremel and I want to replace it with a genuine dremel part. The picture below is the armature I want to replace. Please let me know!
275c6ce33b01ae91dc10758f3352bce3.jpg


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Back on the topic, does anyone know the answer to this question asked originally?

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It would help to know why you want to do this replacement. Has the original armature failed? Does the Dremel armature fit a chuck or other tooling you want to use?
 
It would help to know why you want to do this replacement. Has the original armature failed? Does the Dremel armature fit a chuck or other tooling you want to use?
The armature I want to replace is out of a chineese dremel Clone and the reason I want to replace it is because the pin you press to keep the motor from spinning when you change bits is stripped, so i can't get the collet tight. All of the measurements are the same so it will fit, the only difference is that there is less of those copper strip looking things on the dremel part (I circled them in the added picture). The armature hasn't failed, it still works, it's just that I can't tighten the collet. BTW I think it's an AC motor because the tool plugs into the wall. Lmk if this helps
a9bd66066acb6d9c86cb7fb10353ed22.jpg


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Motors of this type could be run off either AC or DC, but yours is almost certainly designed for AC of the typical wall outlet voltage in your area. Armatures and field coils are matched together in the design process, and there are probably differences in the fields of the Chinese and Dremel versions. The motor would at least try to run if you swapped these two armatures, but it is likely the unit would overheat, run too fast, or otherwise make for hazardous operation.
You would be better off trying to repair the stripped condition, or put the Dremel version into service if you have the rest of it.
 
The reason for fewer coils and segments is simply cost. The more segments, the smoother it will run. the problem is that there are many ways to connect the coils, simplex, lap wound, etc. and without knowing that it is impossible to make a judgement. Another factor is the thickness of the brushes, which is determined by the width of the commutator segments. If you are determined to do it, put it together and see if it runs. It may or may not.

I have not used a Dremel for over 40 years, but the last time I used one cured me of ever wanting to again. There are lots of better products.

Bill
 
The reason for fewer coils and segments is simply cost. The more segments, the smoother it will run. the problem is that there are many ways to connect the coils, simplex, lap wound, etc. and without knowing that it is impossible to make a judgement. Another factor is the thickness of the brushes, which is determined by the width of the commutator segments. If you are determined to do it, put it together and see if it runs. It may or may not.

I have not used a Dremel for over 40 years, but the last time I used one cured me of ever wanting to again. There are lots of better products.

Bill
Thank you! I think I'm just going to get a flex shaft and use some vice grips to really get it on tight and keep it there permanently. Then just use the flex shaft and it's locking mechanism

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Motors of this type could be run off either AC or DC, but yours is almost certainly designed for AC of the typical wall outlet voltage in your area. Armatures and field coils are matched together in the design process, and there are probably differences in the fields of the Chinese and Dremel versions. The motor would at least try to run if you swapped these two armatures, but it is likely the unit would overheat, run too fast, or otherwise make for hazardous operation.
You would be better off trying to repair the stripped condition, or put the Dremel version into service if you have the rest of it.
Thank you! I think I'm just going to get a flex shaft and use some vice grips to really get it on tight and keep it there permanently. Then just use the flex shaft and it's locking mechanism. I really appreciate your input!

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I think I have six or eight Dremel tools that still work, but have not used one in a decade or more. They never did work very well, of course. I still use Foredom flex shaft tools, which are vastly superior to a Dremel or even one of those Chinese improved Dremels. When I want something faster (and far better) than one of my Foredom tools, I use a Marathon micromotor with various 50K or 35K RPM handpieces. I call the Marathon my thousand dollar Dremel, with great affection and respect.

The Dremels are meant to be thrown away when they break and the same goes for the Chinese versions. They fall into the forbidden to discuss category, though questions about universal motor parts might pass. Machinery Discussion Guidelines

Larry
 
Why is location for so many new people here showing Aland Islands?

IIRC, it has something to do with how user profiles are set up in mobile clients; if not explicitly set it chooses the first item in the list, which happens to be Aland Islands.

I would suggest the first "location" to be A1 dumbassville. That way the dumbasses that can not be bothered to put in a location will be either; motivated to change it, or feel right at home.
 








 
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