Cannot Get Spindle Rotation on New Summit 14x40 With RPC

I've searched the forum for a bit and haven't found any insight yet. I have a brand new Summit 14x40 Precision Lathe that is being powered by a North American RPC PL-10. The machine has power as everything seems to work minus the most important part; the spindle. It will not turn when the motor is in gear, forward-reverse lever is engaged and all safeties are disengaged. If I bypass the various safety connectors it still will not run. Yet when I push the override button on the connector for the clockwise or counter-clockwise spindle rotation, the spindle rotates just fine, but this is the only way it will rotate. Could this be caused by something as simple as the leads from the converter to the machine being connected in the wrong order? Or is this some other issue? Any insight would be very helpful.

If it runs at all the electric is OK.

Seems that the control switch system for regular operation is not doing its thing. If the over-ride works, the contactor works and the voltage should be OK.

Loose wire, bad switch, etc?

Mark sure the generated (wild leg) is not connected to the transformer, as the voltage can vary quite a bit. It sounds like the contactors are not closing, if the overrides work.

mksj said:

Mark sure the generated (wild leg) is not connected to the transformer, as the voltage can vary quite a bit. It sounds like the contactors are not closing, if the overrides work.

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Yes, this can be an issue. If the voltage drops enough to drop out the contactor as the motor starts, the motor may just "kick", but not start. Often the contactor will "buzz" as it goes through the cycle of contactor closes, voltage drops, contactor opens, voltage recovers, contactor closes, voltage drops, etc, etc.

I am assuming that if the motor works on over-ride, that the contactor is closing. Often that over-ride, or "jog" button is just like the start button, except that it bypasses the "holding" or "sealing" contact on the main contactor. So it only closes the contactor when the button is held.

The same problem of voltage drop should happen either way, so I am assuming for the moment that the problem is in the start button itself, or it's direct wiring.

If the contactor is actually closing to power the motor in "over-ride", that should "clear" the transformer, and most of the control wiring. They must be working, and not having a problem with voltage drop.

But it IS an excellent point, and even if the machine's control power seems to be working, the connection should be verified to be powering the controls from the pass-through legs, and NOT from the generated leg.