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Czerweny belt sander. Wiring question

kielbasavw

Aluminum
Joined
Feb 25, 2013
Location
california
Can't find anything on this brand. Made in Argentina.

The guy says it's 220v. Tag on motor says 115/230. He isn't sure how it should be plugged in. It has a normal 110 plug without a ground. He says it pulls alot of current at start up. Runs slow at start up on 110 said he had it on a 220 circuit using 110 plug.

It looks like a cool belt/disc combo. Guy wants $50 with extra belts. Is it worth it and what's the right way to set it up? Any idea on hp? Thanks
 

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Is anything made in Italy good? Poland? Much to broad of a question to answer. Argentinian metalworkers are often very clever. It's probably a good machine.

Based on what I can make out are the current ratings, it looks like 15A @ 115V which is around 1 to 1.5hp which is fine for a fixed speed belt grinder.

Look carefully at the platen and table and trunnions and the tracking adjustment mechanism. If all of those look sound then if the price is right go for it.

If you suspect the motor, sniff around the start capacitor - the "blister" on the side of the motor. Any whiff of burned electrical? If so, it still might work but the price would go way down. You could also take the cover off the motor's junction box and test continuity and volts through the wires, as well as shorts to ground. All that if you know what you're doing, of course. While in that junction box look for a wiring diagram showing high voltage connection and low. A quick perusal of the wiring will most probably tell you how it's wired. If it's wired 110v ask the seller to plug it in and run it for you. If it's wired 220 ask if they can run it for you or bring a generator with 220 and run it yourself. If it's wired wrong make a lowball offer on the thing because the seller will believe it doesn't work and will be trying to take advantage of you so will be greedy enough to take a lowball offer. Then rewire it correctly and laugh all the way home.

metalmagpie
 
this company has shifted to mostly making transformers and substations- its a pretty large and capable company.
Tadeo Czerweny | History
there is a spinoff company that makes electric fans, they could also have made your sander.
given the numbers on your nameplate, I would guess that machine was made in the seventies.
Motores Czerweny

I would not hesitate to spend fifty bucks on it, assuming the motor turns when given power.
It would easily go for ten times that much in Argentina- tools are quite expensive here.
 
Hope this thread will come back to life. i have a similar belt/disc sander combo as above. Model # 56MC2RB-1 with 115/230v rating. we assumed the unit wouldnt turn on due to brush wear. after taking the disc and belt sander attachements off it spun freely and worked. the problem is there is little to no torque. i can stop the lower drum with my hand. i was wondering if the voltage increase from 110 to 240 would solve the issue. this unit has been kicking around the shop for a couple years and no one has tired to remedy the situation. any advice would be awesome!
 
There is something wrong with the unit, a voltage switch should make very little difference how it runs or starts. The motor is a induction motor..no brushes.

Stuart
 
Hope this thread will come back to life. i have a similar belt/disc sander combo as above. Model # 56MC2RB-1 with 115/230v rating. we assumed the unit wouldnt turn on due to brush wear. after taking the disc and belt sander attachements off it spun freely and worked. the problem is there is little to no torque. i can stop the lower drum with my hand. i was wondering if the voltage increase from 110 to 240 would solve the issue. this unit has been kicking around the shop for a couple years and no one has tired to remedy the situation. any advice would be awesome!


is there a stat cap that may have gone bad ? its petty straight foreword stuff in order for the motor to be 115/230 it will have three sets of windings a set of start and two run each set is rated at 115 volt so if it is wired for 115 all the windings are in parallel if it is wired for 230 the run windings are in series with the start winding in parallel with one set of the run windings now about the start cap it is in series with the start winding but only tell the motor comes up to speed then it is switched off [taken out of the circuit ] by one of two ways that click you hear as the motor starts or is coming to a stop that click is a centrifugal switch the other way to do the same thing is a potential relay and it can be mechanical [have a coil and points and can be position [up / down ] sensitive ] or it can be electronic and if they got real sophisticated it could have a run cap along with a start cap but that's another story
 








 
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