I bought an Ex-cell-o Mill (XLO) first gen mill today. - Page 2
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  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Clive603 View Post
    The Eaton box comes in both 3 phase and single phase input versions. I've been very pleased with the single phase input ones I used and have installed.
    My point is simply that on his machine this would not be a "drop in replacement for standard electro-mechanical contactor / starter units". The contactor/starter on his machine is 3-phase in / 3-phase out whereas he needs to convert the machine to single phase in.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ballen View Post
    My point is simply that on his machine this would not be a "drop in replacement for standard electro-mechanical contactor / starter units". The contactor/starter on his machine is 3-phase in / 3-phase out whereas he needs to convert the machine to single phase in.
    screenshot-2021-07-18-12.26.41-pm.jpg

    the linked VFD is single phase in 3 phase out

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    It does not have a coolant pump I will want to add one.
    Any DRO recommendations that are good but will not cost more than the mill.
    The table is 36".

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    My BIL bought one from Tpac and has been happy with it, but I have no other experience with them.

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    I was think about a two axes DRO. Do I really need a Z axes?

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    Quote Originally Posted by mark_b View Post
    I was think about a two axes DRO. Do I really need a Z axes?
    Not if you are just boring holes. On the off chance you do some milling that could use it you can always just use the dials or an indicator, etc. Like has been done for over 100 yrs without a DRO.

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  8. #27
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    As far as I know most of the Ex-Cello Mills that were also made for a time here in Canada in London Ontario had an R8 spindle taper the same as a Bridgeport to hold the tooling .
    There were other options available the most common of those I think would be a #40 milling machine taper .
    They are listed on page 2 of this pdf link .
    http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/1479/6986.pdf
    If you lock the spindle using the brake you can undo the draw bar at the top of the spindle to release the tooling in the spindle.
    I would imagine used R8 tooling will be the easiest and cheapest to find if that is what you have on your machine.
    There are a couple models of machines listed here
    Ex-Cell-O Machine Tools, Inc. - Publication Reprints | VintageMachinery.org
    If yours doesn't quite fit the one in the link it may be an older or newer model .
    Jim

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  10. #28
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    Thanks I went under the tarp and used the brake loosened the drawbar.
    Good news I have a R8 and one collet 3/4"
    Can I put a 3/4" angular drill bit in this collet?

    20210718_190448.jpg

    Is Travers Tool Co Inc a good place to buy tooling? They are about 30 min from my house so I would not have to pay shipping.

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    I personally don't see much of a reason for a DRO on the Z axis. Keeping track of the z using the dial isn't that hard. Getting a readout for the quill height or making one from a set of digital calipers is really nice in my opinion.

    Assuming your annular cutter has a 3/4 round shank your collet should hold fine.

    My boss seems to like buying from Travers Tool, their tools seem fine.

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    It looks like it will fit. It is a mag drill bit.
    incollage_20210718_194421860.jpg

    This is the tag who sold it.
    20210718_081256.jpg

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    Quote Originally Posted by mark_b View Post
    It looks like it will fit. It is a mag drill bit.
    incollage_20210718_194421860.jpg

    This is the tag who sold it.
    20210718_081256.jpg
    Careful. It might "fit" but not properly and will tear-up the R8 goods.

    Some Weldon "side lock" holders work with some annular cutter shanks.

    Others need purpose-built arbors or adaptors.

    Search on it and find several options.

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    I just ordered a R8 to MT2 adapter.
    I had bought as MT2 angular mag bit holder with lube but my drill press was not the task.
    Accusize Industrial Tools Mt2 to 3/4 inch Weldon Shank with Coolant System for Drill-Use Annular Cutter on Drill Press, Mc10-0002: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
    I would think the mill would work with it.

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  17. #34
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    Some of those annular cutter adapters from various manufacturers to fit R8 and other tapers also have a way to feed coolant or cutting oil through the holder while the tool is turning .
    If the coolant run off is manageable for your operation it will extend the life of the cutters in between sharpening and sometimes beats standing there brushing it on intermittently with a paint brush or squirt can if you are doing a lot of drilling .
    For a few holes once in a while you could likely get by in the collet if you are careful especially if you aren't using larger sizes in the 2" diameter range.
    If you have a say #3 Morse taper adapter with coolant for your mag drill you could perhaps get an R8 to #3Morse adapter for the mill and use it in there although it would stick out a bit farther from the spindle than than the proper R8 to 3/4 " annular cutter adapter.
    Jim
    P.S. I see you were posting while I was typing.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mark_b View Post
    I just ordered a R8 to MT2 adapter.
    I had bought as MT2 angular mag bit holder with lube but my drill press was not the task.
    I would think the mill would work with it.
    You can drill "OK" with the modest "stacking-error" of an R8 to MT 2 adapter in between and the extra stick-out is sometimes a benefit, not a detriment.

    A light touch and patience advised. Downside is the R8's grip is very modest and the mill doesn't have a lot of power behind it, either.

    You won't have near as much driving power as the typical mag drill, for example. Just more convenient and repeatable positioning with the mill.

    The "mothership" for my annulars is a drillpress, far better at that tasking than a mill.

    But 4,400 lbs, 5 MT snout, and 7 HP delivered through a PIV variable drive plus geared head.

    "Heavy Hams Hans" doesn't mill. But when asked to make a hole?
    A hole is what you gets!



    (1950's Alzmetall AB5/S).

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    Quote Originally Posted by mark_b View Post
    Those are 5C collets, usually used in lathes. You want R8 collets.

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    WTF happened to the post I just typed out

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    Quote Originally Posted by kenton View Post
    Those are 5C collets, usually used in lathes. You want R8 collets.
    I did have it filtered I must have backed out of the filter.
    OTMT 69-510-077 R8 1/8" thru 3/4", plus 7/8" Collet Set | 69-510-077 | Travers Tool Co., Inc.

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    Quote Originally Posted by thermite View Post
    You can drill "OK" with the modest "stacking-error" of an R8 to MT 2 adapter in between and the extra stick-out is sometimes a benefit, not a detriment.

    A light touch and patience advised. Downside is the R8's grip is very modest and the mill doesn't have a lot of power behind it, either.

    You won't have near as much driving power as the typical mag drill, for example. Just more convenient and repeatable positioning with the mill.

    The "mothership" for my annulars is a drillpress, far better at that tasking than a mill.

    But 4,400 lbs, 5 MT snout, and 7 HP delivered through a PIV variable drive plus geared head.

    "Heavy Hams Hans" doesn't mill. But when asked to make a hole?
    A hole is what you gets!



    (1950's Alzmetall AB5/S).
    The repeatable positioning for these tabs is important.

    20210628_185515.jpg

    Here is what I make the big holes are 30 mm and need to right on where they are positioned.
    the other small holes are plasma and they are not tight tolerances.

  23. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by mark_b View Post
    Understanding you meant R8 collets, yes, you should HAVE a set, BUT...

    You'll generally get more out of the mill and reduce the risks of BOTH "push back" and "pull out" ruining your day - and perhaps also the work - if you mount your milling cutters in Weldon (style) R8-tail "side lock" holders.

    EG: AVOID use of collets as much as you can avoid them.

    "Page Two:"

    For commonly used shank sizes, have SEVERAL side-locks and leave some of your tools IN them, "dedicated", hence always ready to swap-in. That can also save time, vs collets.


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