ITE Contactor help?

This contactor is missing its tag, so I am not sure of the model. I just don't know how many volts (ac or dc) this is or how to wire it. It didn't come with a transformer. Anyone have a suggestion or am I better off buying one? Thanks Jonathan
(wiring it to the motor is no problem, the switch is the problem)

Got access to a Variac (variable autotransformer)? You could set the variac to zero, hook it to the coil, hook a voltmeter in parallel to the variac/coil, and slowly turn up the voltage until the contactor actuates. The contactor may actuate at some oddball voltage, but if that's a minor distance under some standard voltage (like 24 volts AC) then you can (hopefully) assume that the nominal coil voltage is that slightly higher voltage.

I believe the photo shows the contactor coil to operate at 480VAC@60Hz.

Vlad

Any 3 phase contactors for the load will work. You need to know the solenoid voltage . Most on that type are 220vac , look on the side and it will be marked. The red wire loops over to the reset to disengage the pull in solenoid in case of a fault, so I'm pretty sure its 220 just check it first.

What is the power n your machine And what size circuit breaker in the mains panel .

BTW ... when you need help please post the power requirements, I'm not good at mind reading or guessing at pictures.

Since the coil is 480/440, perhaps the motor is wired for 440/480?

Depending on the application, a three phrase motor running at half voltage may not be noticed. I recall someone (Milacron?) dealt with a wood planer that spent most of its life at half volts (220, instead of 440).

My point is "check the motor wiring", don't trust it is wired for the intended voltage.

SteveBausch said:

Since the coil is 480/440, perhaps the motor is wired for 440/480?

Depending on the application, a three phrase motor running at half voltage may not be noticed. I recall someone (Milacron?) dealt with a wood planer that spent most of its life at half volts (220, instead of 440).

My point is "check the motor wiring", don't trust it is wired for the intended voltage.

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Yes that's true. I've seen many motors run on 220( 230 ) that are dual voltage . More 440 types are Y and 230 delta of the same motor, at lower voltage. The only real difference in 230 is about 1/12hp loss and some toque.

As far as the rating being 440/480 the contacts are rated at a lower amperage. What type motor is running , it may be within the contactors amperage ratings.

Now if we know the machines power connection witch has eluded us , it's very hard to give a good answer .

Gould ITE Size3 Magnetic Starter W Cover Mounted Start Stop 480V Coil

Looks like what you have there is a Gould ITE magnetic starter, Size 3, 3Pole, 7.5 to 30HP depending on voltage and phase of the motor.
The operating coil is clearly 480V, as Vladymere gr, stated earlier. Also has cover mounted start stop button kit installed, but not wired in photo.
The 460V coil can be a problem unless that's the voltage of your motor. 460V control circuit should not leave the starter enclosure for safety, only use with cover mounted start stop kit, to keep unfused, Hi Volt control wiring inside enclosure.

To use with a different control voltage you will need to replace the coil with a lower voltage 120 or 240V depending on your use. 120V if you want to use external pushbuttons or control switches.

Also the heater elements at the bottom should be checked to make sure that they are the intended size for your use. Included is a table for the size 2 & 3 heater elements.
Comparable starter

Ebay sample : Gould ITE A203E A20 3 Pole 600 Volt Size 3 Starter 120 Volt Coil 50HP 600V New | eBay
Gould ITE 3P Size 3 Tag

Gould ITE Type A20,21 Size2 Heater Table

Gould ITE Type A20 Size3 Heater Table

Sample 230V Coil

G103F226 ITE Gould Telemecanique Coil 220V | eBay
Sample 480V Coil
G103F486 ITE Gould Telemecanique Coil 480V | eBay

Hope that helps, SAF Ω

Here ya go........ Contactors | Catalog Search Results | Galco Industrial Electronics

May want to use 2 definite contactors instead of the reversing type. Just look up the pacts and amperage of your machine.

This sort of stuff goes so cheaply on ebay, if you supply the enclosure.

Historians should mark the creation of ebay as a new calendar dating system: "Before ebay", "After ebay".

To expand on Steve's post...Galco is the most expensive joint in town, shop wisely!

Stuart

Gould a203c -- 3 phase motor starter for 80 gallon, 2 stage pump, air compressor



Hello everyone - I'm hoping someone can help me with the wiring of a used air compressor I just purchased.

It's an 80 gallon, 2 stage pump, with a 3 phase motor. The motor is wired as per the attached diagram and it runs if wired directly from the 3 phase, 30 amp, breaker (briefly wired like that just to test it ran). It came with a pressure switch and a Gould a203c motor starter which just like the one in the picture. We set it up with a 3 phase cut off switch and it's wired as per the picture with two boxes together.

The problem is that I don't know at which terminal on the starter to connect the 2 wires from the compressor pressure switch (wires encircled in red).

Can someone point me to the right diagram that would help me get this bad boy working so it turns on with the pressure switch while using the compressor? It's probably a simple connection that I'm missing so if that's the case, perhaps somebody could tell me where these two wires should be connected?

Lastly, should the starter be bad, is there a way for me to test it with a voltmeter?

Thanks in advance!

Replacing an old obsolete contactor made by a company that has not existed for 20+ years with another one just like it is just asking for trouble in my opinion. Just get a new contactor from a supplier you trust. There is nothing more expensive than something you have to fix twice.

Jraef said:

Replacing an old obsolete contactor made by a company that has not existed for 20+ years with another one just like it is just asking for trouble in my opinion. Just get a new contactor from a supplier you trust. There is nothing more expensive than something you have to fix twice.

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One is a lot better off if a starter is a currently manufactured item and a well known manufacturer, like Allen-Bradley, Square D, & so on, I like the now obsolete Cutler-Hammer, Citation starters, they have been obsolete since the mid 90's but have a bunch of them & accessories, so not a problem, but a odd one like ITE, FPE, Joslyn Clark (Sylvania), & a few others is just a headache.