New American Rotary 10hp single phasing

rj1939 · Feb 26, 2019

Just hooked up my new American Rotary 10hp. and it won't start the slave motor, Slave motor unhooked, so it won't burn up, the voltages are:
T-1 to T-2 245 volts
T-2 to T-3 98 volts
T-2 to T-3 146 volts

L1 to L2 245 volts.

I started and ran 10 hp slave motor on my home made 5 hp rotary that doesn't even have balance capacitors. It struggled just a bit.

johansen · Feb 26, 2019

98 plus 146 is 244... which means the third leg of the motor is disconnected internally and you are measuring the run capacitor's voltage division.

This is probably a simple fix but since its new you need to talk to whoever you bought it from

Strostkovy · Feb 26, 2019

Does the idler start?

rj1939 · Feb 26, 2019

Strostkovy said:
Does the idler start?

That is the problem, won't start the idler

rj1939 · Feb 26, 2019

Filled out the form on AR website, will see if and when they get back to me.

Strostkovy · Feb 26, 2019

In the meantime check for any overcurrent or overtemperature protection device that could be tripped. I'm sure there is a little red reset button somewhere on the thing.

ripperj · Feb 27, 2019

Double check the wiring that goes to the AR idler, there was something a bit weird, but I don’t recall what(been a while since I hooked it up) , the connection diagram they give you works. Worth a look.
I also have a AR 10hp and it works well, starts my 16” lathe in high gear no issues

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rj1939 · Feb 27, 2019

EDIT....................I've made an error...............IT IS NOT AN AMERICAN ROTARY..............IT IS A NORTH AMERICAN ROTARY.

I've been on the horn with them today. So far nothing more than the usual guesses.

Bill Simmons · Feb 27, 2019

Some detailed pictures would help those trying to help you. Some more detailed measurements would be useful. If the idler motor is actually connected, I would expect your circuit protective device to trip. A current measurement would confirm this. Any hum or growl from the idler? Try measuring the voltage provided by l1 & l2 at the idler terminals. Supply all the information you have and let those helping decide what is useful.

rj1939 · Feb 27, 2019

Here is a pic I had on the phone.

Idler makes a lot of noise, but doesn't start, ran it off my home made converter to verify it was good.

tag on idler.

I would have been better off to have just put together another plain jane rotary like the 5 hp.......its never been any trouble.

Strostkovy · Feb 28, 2019

rj1939 said:
View attachment 250954

Here is a pic I had on the phone.

Idler makes a lot of noise, but doesn't start, ran it off my home made converter to verify it was good.

View attachment 250955 tag on idler.

I would have been better off to have just put together another plain jane rotary like the 5 hp.......its never been any trouble.

If it sits and makes noise then your start capacitors or potential relay are bad.

Matt Matt · Feb 28, 2019

rj1939 said:
View attachment 250954

Here is a pic I had on the phone.

Idler makes a lot of noise, but doesn't start, ran it off my home made converter to verify it was good.

I would have been better off to have just put together another plain jane rotary like the 5 hp.......its never been any trouble.

View attachment 250955 tag on idler.

Just curious, you have three lugs that should go to the 3 Phase idler motor, but from your picture I don’t see any of them connected properly. And I don’t see you have it set up for your output, off the other three output lug screws. Can you please explain why?

From my quick visual look at the panel, there doesn’t seem to be anything wrong with it, except for how you have it wired, or not wired.

JST · Feb 28, 2019

I would suppose he has them disconnected to the idler for checking, and has not connected the output wires because it is not working right......... It looks as if the 3 wires were at one time connected.....they look squashed a bit.

rj1939 · Mar 2, 2019

Yup, got them unhooked due to failure to start idler..............can't get idler to start, so no need to hook a load up.

Have another motor now to put on it, another Lincoln Electric...........will hook it in as time permits.

rj1939 · Mar 20, 2019

Just an update, Problems seemed to be on the ground circuit of the single phase coming to the shop. Put in a ground rod close to where the RPC is located and things began to start coming together.
Have been using the RPC for a few hours now.

ripperj · Mar 21, 2019

Not sure how that makes sense, unless there is some 110v control circuits that use the ground instead of a proper neutral.(not sure if that’s even code anymore)

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JST · Mar 22, 2019

ripperj said:
Not sure how that makes sense, unless there is some 110v control circuits that use the ground instead of a proper neutral.(not sure if that’s even code anymore)

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It ain't. Not even foe stoves, that got removed from NEC an edition or teo back, IIRC.

rj1939 · Mar 23, 2019

It was a problem in the neutral circuit on the single phase side.............I used the terminology improperly.

johansen · Mar 24, 2019

Still... get that neutral connected back to the source and you dont need the extra ground rod.

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