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old motor with Dings electromagnetic brake

metalmagpie

Titanium
Joined
May 22, 2006
Location
Seattle
A buddy gave me a worm/pinion right angle gearbox with an old Westinghouse 56C frame 3/4 hp 3 phase motor on it. The motor was fitted with a Dings model 60 brake. The brake mechanism was a giant ball of rust. With the help of an angle cutoff grinder I got it all loose. Now it's hanging from two wires. I intend to try to resurrect this motor. I have seen amazing results from derusting and judicious bead blasting, and the wiring looks fine. Internal wiring insulation is not cracked. The bearings are 6203Z which I have a stash of. I don't see any reason not to pursue fixing this motor.

The Dings instructions say (for a dual voltage coil - the motor can be wired 240/480) "Connect leads 2 and 4 to any two line leads (single or three phase) of same voltage and frequency as the brake."

To me, that means the two wires leading from the junction box out to the brake are jumpers to two of L1, L2 or L3 so I should just cut them off and cap them, making sure they can never connect to anything.

But I'm nervous about it. Does that sound right to you?

metalmagpie
 
Yup, that's the standard way to wire a brake. You can just remove the wires.

It's probably best to open up the junction box and remove the brake wires from the splices.
 
A buddy gave me a worm/pinion right angle gearbox with an old Westinghouse 56C frame 3/4 hp 3 phase motor on it. The motor was fitted with a Dings model 60 brake. The brake mechanism was a giant ball of rust. With the help of an angle cutoff grinder I got it all loose. Now it's hanging from two wires. I intend to try to resurrect this motor. I have seen amazing results from derusting and judicious bead blasting, and the wiring looks fine. Internal wiring insulation is not cracked. The bearings are 6203Z which I have a stash of. I don't see any reason not to pursue fixing this motor.

The Dings instructions say (for a dual voltage coil - the motor can be wired 240/480) "Connect leads 2 and 4 to any two line leads (single or three phase) of same voltage and frequency as the brake."

To me, that means the two wires leading from the junction box out to the brake are jumpers to two of L1, L2 or L3 so I should just cut them off and cap them, making sure they can never connect to anything.

But I'm nervous about it. Does that sound right to you?

metalmagpie

Depends. ISTR the two I have use Stewart-Warner AC brakes on DC motors.

Regardless.

Some brakes hold OFF when powered, automagically engage and brake when power is cut. If my ones aren't powered, the motor is hard braked.

Some others GRAB when powered. No power means don't care.

If you aren't using the brake, best to remove it outright. Then how it is wired - or not - is no longer even on your dance-card at all.

If you have already DONE that? Then surely the wires that USED TO feed it need to be safely isolated.

Brake parts - all of them - if you want to use it, are not terribly expensive, NEW, BTW. Check those costs before investing any sweat in a brake rebuild "project".
 
Most right-angle gearmotors I've seen with brakes have been for conveyor service. They're usually set up in "spring-applied" configuration to stop an ostensible conveyor and it's load from running away in the event of a power failure, blown fuse or failed connection. "Spring-released" brakes are out there but are less common since most applications requiring a brake need to be "fail-applied" rather than "fail-released".
 
Yeah, cranes and most other applications are set up the same. You almost always want the load to be either stopped, or running in the speed and direction of the motor.
 








 
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