overload relay wiring

I purchased a Maka Mortiser which was in use in Germany running on 380v. I rewired it to run my shop voltage line at 240v (off of my AR 20 RPC)
One of the main changes needed was to replace the overload relay, so that it can accommodate the higher amperage. The original OR I removed was an older Siemens Overload Relay- I installed a newer Schneider that can work at my current 8.5A capacity.

My problem is that my machine is not running properly. This machine is designed so that when the Start button is pressed- the chisel head moves from its starting position and advances horizontally (I believe this is via its pneumatic control- not sure yet) which soon trips the motor upon reaching a position that is manually preset. This is the point where the swing-chisel begins its job, digging out a mortise. However with my machine as soon as the chisel head is tripped on- it stops advancing! It stays in this mode (spinning/oscillating) until I press a button which returns it to starting position

I believe I got something wrong when I replaced the overload relay. I thought I did a good job in maintaining the original wiring configuration, but they both have a different layout, so I must have gotten something wrong. Specifically, the original OR had a short wire that ran on its underside from the A2 port to 96, It also had the single wire from the corresponding A2 terminal in the contactor running into the top of the OR. But on the new one (Schneider overload relay) there is no port for A2, so I ran a wire from the A2 port on the contactor all the way straight to the 96 terminal.

Any suggestions?

You might get lucky in that somebody knows the exact OL relays you are dealing with.

Otherwise a few pictures would help. I would suggest that the OL you are using needs to have the current trip position moved by moving the round wheel to increase
the current capacity. What do you have there? Is it adjustable by */- 10%?

Give model numbers of old and new OL relays. Also wiring on old OL relay.

Welcome to the forum.

As the machine was a 380v unit previously and now is a 240v unit, there must have been more changes than just the motor connections and the O/L relay. If that's accurate, then might not one of those be the culprit..and don't forget about the generated leg of your RPC, you don't want that on a transformer or solenoid, if those exist on your machine.

What I'm saying is..look at all the areas and not just the O/L relay.

Stuart

Thanks! I'll be back with photos.
Actually, I was fortunate that the original wiring ran the one leg used in the overload relay through a transformer downgrading it to 220v which is my current shop voltage. I disconnected that transformer and rerouted the wires.... I'm just wondering- was that a mistake? 240v means that each individual line to ground is 120v. Does that make a difference? also, would I be able to run the generated leg through these relays? Excuse my ignorance, I'm learning on the job

Here are the photos.
The first one is the new Schneider replacement overload relay with a capacity of 8.5 amps. The second one is the old Siemens that I removed and installed into a different a machine. The last photo is the underside of the same. I can't figure out why this is happening, but every time the contactor on the left (c1) is tripped, it switches the contactor on the right (d1) off. It does not seem that this is related to the overload relay because I removed the wires going into aux 95(nc) and aux 96(nc) and still got the same result.
What am I missing?

German machinery can be daunting, electrical wise. Have you determined what each mag controls as it would appear that the machine does not want D1 closed if C1 trips. Look at the machine and see what each mag controls and what disaster would result in D1's load running while C1's was not. They are obviously interconnected somewhere on the machine. This is all a guess on my part as I have no idea how it's wired or what the machine does. Typical, there is a wiring schematic glued to the inside of the enclosure door.

Stuart

In the first picture there is a little thumb wheel that can be rotated clockwise to increase the current trip point.
You've got an adjustment range from 9 to 13. Is the wheel set to 9? The accuracy is not so great and what you think is 9 is not exactly 9.000.

You can also press the test button on the overload relay. You machine should shut off if wired correctly. Doing this will remove the overload
relay from the problem. Then the fun begins.

Thankfully, my machine now works as its supposed to! I'm not sure what it was that caused it, maybe the fact that the 3rd generated leg was being used on the controls?
Anyhow, I appreciate your concern and advice offered ,and I'm happy to report on another resolved issue to add to your belts...

If it's working and you didn't change anything then the opportunity will come your way again.
Just saying that in debugging the mysterious problem always returns.

But if you happened to change swap a couple of RPC output legs and then things are happy then your "maybe" accounts for the dirty deed.

It would be nice to know what you did to get it working.

I though he indicated that swapping some control devices from the generated leg to proper line solved the problem. Could be wrong though.

Stuart