Overload reset on old starter
Close
Login to Your Account
Results 1 to 8 of 8
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Location
    Peralta, NM USA
    Posts
    5,985
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    59
    Likes (Received)
    615

    Default Overload reset on old starter

    I've got an old AB starter that's popped the overload and I can't figure out how to reset it. It's a 609AAWA. There's still power to the starter, just blocked at the OL. There's a bar at the bottom that seemed to ratchet when pressed in with a screwdriver but bottomed out it still doesn't activate. I'm assuming that there's some trick to these that I don't know/can't see. Perhaps the bar needs more pressure? It's old and appears to be something like Garolite so I don't want to put too much pressure on it. Yet.

    ab_starter.jpg

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Minnesota
    Posts
    423
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    171
    Likes (Received)
    167

    Default

    I'd lock out incoming power and pull the heaters to get a look at them just be sure they're not screwed up. Two screws and they pop right out. Sometimes they can burn up and fail under locked rotor current. IIRC that style AB heater uses a ratcheting wheel held in place by a solder alloy which melts from the heat generated by a sustained overload.

    Have you tried resetting it by pressing the stop button firmly?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Location
    Peralta, NM USA
    Posts
    5,985
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    59
    Likes (Received)
    615

    Default

    The heaters were OK. Ohm out at something like .21ohms. I'm somewhat familiar with this type of overload but can't see how to get to the ratchet - I felt it move with pushing in a cross bar with the screwdriver but wasn't comfortable hitting it much. Stop button won't go in further, but it's a little mangled (maybe melted?) and that could be the problem. Poked around and it looks like the contacts were closing, checking with the meter showed that they were. Plugged it back in and everything is working again. Thanks for the pointers.

    Might have to replace this sometime...

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Minnesota
    Posts
    423
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    171
    Likes (Received)
    167

    Default

    It's an old style starter with only two heaters for three phases. Worth replacing when you get a chance.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2001
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    North Carolina
    Posts
    2,174
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    247
    Likes (Received)
    514

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Just a Sparky View Post
    It's an old style starter with only two heaters for three phases. Worth replacing when you get a chance.
    Good thing it is only being used for single phase.

    -D

  6. Likes Just a Sparky liked this post
  7. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    E-burg MD USA
    Posts
    663
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    7
    Likes (Received)
    124

    Default

    To the OP , Sir
    Those are known as 'heaters' and after they have drawn to many amps ( thus heating up ) they trip. After things cool down they should reset themselves. You need to look at the amp draw of your circuit and determine what the load is and size the heaters accordingly.
    Hope this helps
    Stay safe
    Calvin B
    PS one of the most common problems is when sometime gets a 440 machine and hooks up 230/240 to it. Will run ( sometimes) with no load but as soon as a load is applied. POP goes the heater.. Can be real frustrating iff'n one doesn't know....

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Geneva Illinois USA
    Posts
    6,565
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    2942
    Likes (Received)
    2634

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by calvin b View Post
    To the OP , Sir
    Those are known as 'heaters' and after they have drawn to many amps ( thus heating up ) they trip. After things cool down they should reset themselves. You need to look at the amp draw of your circuit and determine what the load is and size the heaters accordingly.
    Hope this helps
    Stay safe
    Calvin B
    PS one of the most common problems is when sometime gets a 440 machine and hooks up 230/240 to it. Will run ( sometimes) with no load but as soon as a load is applied. POP goes the heater.. Can be real frustrating iff'n one doesn't know....
    Sorry, but you are wrong on the auto reset. The AB's use a solder pot OL with a ratchet wheel attached to the stem of the solder pot. Resetting involves allowing the solder pot to cool, then pushing the reset to close the NO contacts and reset the release bar on the ratchet wheel. If a heater is damaged, the OL can be checked by holding the reset bar down, the machine should be able to run, but will only run so long as the reset bar is held down. Check the heater units to make sure the ratchet wheels do not turn with the heaters are cold.

    Tom

  9. Likes Just a Sparky liked this post
  10. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Location
    Peralta, NM USA
    Posts
    5,985
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    59
    Likes (Received)
    615

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by calvin b View Post
    To the OP , Sir
    Those are known as 'heaters' and after they have drawn to many amps ( thus heating up ) they trip. After things cool down they should reset themselves. You need to look at the amp draw of your circuit and determine what the load is and size the heaters accordingly.
    Yeah, I should have mentioned that I'd already changed the heaters to something close to the right spec for the motor, I might need to add an amp or so as I didn't expect them to pop the OL with an hour on the drive. I think most of my use before that was in shorter bursts or lower needed power.

    But the OL is the ratcheting type and not auto-reset. I've got very similar units on my 10EE main contactor but there the OL reset is a big -ass button labeled "RESET". These might reset with the "OFF" button as "Just a Sparky" suggested but it looks like there might be something wonky with my off button preventing it from depressing all the way.


Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •