What's new
What's new

Phase perfect phase converter and LED lights flickering in machine?

Lazyman

Aluminum
Joined
Nov 28, 2016
Hi, I have a 355 20hp phase perfect wired up to a haas VF-2SSYT. The LED worklights in the machine flicker slightly when the machine is idle. It was always a very slight flicker before that never bothered me but now worse and quite noticeable. So far I have checked the lights by plugging them directly into a wall outlet and they don't flicker at all so the lights work fine. I tried checking the 3 phase voltage and the voltmeter just goes all over the place and cant get a reading. I tried measuring the 240V single phase input to the phase converted just for fun and the reading is also all over the place. However on another 240V outlet the reading is a solid 242V. I'm not an electrical guy. What could possibly cause this? I'm wondering if I'm getting unstable power or something and this is causing the LED lights to flicker? Any ideas would be helpful. Thanks!
 
The lights work OK in a regular outlet. Are they 115 VAC or 230 VAC or what? And where does the machine get the proper Voltage for them?

Sounds to me like you could have a wiring problem with power to the machine. Is it on some kind of outlet or hard wired or what? I would check that wiring for loose connections.
 
The lights operate 110-240VAC but the outlet tested was 120V. No flicker at all. The lights are powered via a power distribution board in the electrical panel in the machine. The machine is powered by 3 phase 220VAC. The machine was hardwired by an electrician. I will check connections.
 
I have checked the connections and nothing is loose. I noticed on the other hobby forum there is a thread with the exact same machine and also a lathe that both have LED lights flickering. Could it be a grounding issue? It just seems so odd that it happens even when the machine is idle.
 
Makes no sense that your meter can't get a reading. Maybe something is wrong with your PP, liner filter caps might need replacing. Start checking that NOW!!!, they're cheap enough to replace, get new ones from PP, they're just a pain to get at.

You should be getting a good even voltage, L1 and L2 to ground around 120V, your incoming voltage between legs so likely around 245V, and 208V L3-Groung.
Also make sure your meter is half decent, check with a 2nd one to see if it does the same thing.
 
Thanks, I ordered a fluke volt meter to replace the junk one I was using to make sure it's not the meter and see the readings I get.
 
Just try changing the connections to the machine. Rotate them by one phase so instead of A-B-C the machine is connected B-C-A. That way, the controllers and electronics are likeley to be on the original supply instead of the Phase Perfect's generated supply. The problem is likely to be far worse when the Machine(s) isn't drawing much load, but flipping the supplies like this avoids the problem even at zero load.

If there is no change in the behaviour, rotate one time more before giving up!
 
Thanks, I ordered a fluke volt meter to replace the junk one I was using to make sure it's not the meter and see the readings I get.

Even fluke meters do not always read right on a voltage that has spikes and high frequency stuff on it.

For that, I prefer an old analog meter when it is possible to use one.... the meter movement ignores that stuff. Most old Simpson meters are OK, but I did have one that read way high on a DC voltage that had spikes on it. You are safest as far as a good reading with a plain analog panel meter, but those are not common anymore, and you may want an AC reading that they are not good at doing.....
 
If you want to be pedantic. A moving iron meter will read true RMS, as will a true RMS digital meter. Wereas a moving coil meter is likely to read average*1.41. The former pair relate more closely to real life.
 
Folks at phaseconverting.com are knowledgeable on the PTs. I had a similar issue.
1) per the PT355 manual it says to change the line caps every 3 years I believe and inspect (measure) every year. You may have one starting to fail. If they fail excessive electronic noise comes from the PT. You may be seeing this. They are the big silver ones in the unit, maybe 1.5" diameter, couple inches long.
2) the PTs naturally put out some EMI noise on the lines. Thats why they make an EMI option for high end electronics. You could put a small EMI filter ahead of the lighting that is flickering and see if it helps. Some LEDs are hyper sensitive to EMI.
 








 
Back
Top