Rectifier test with switch hooked up to it. - Page 2
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  1. #21
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    Update.
    First off the rectifier diagram is wrong but it checks good with a meter. I found the right info on it once I took it off the machine and found a make and looked it up.
    I took all the wires off the machine and label and traced them and made this diagram. I think the round thing is a thermal protection.its hard to see on my diagram.
    A Leaphart



  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by CarlBoyd View Post
    WRONG! The bridge is wired correctly. You need more coffee
    CarlBoyd
    Thanks...



    and "Vcc" is "Voltage, Common Collector". Not a term really applicable, here.

    "Generally" meant for whole boards full of "stuff" - IC's in a specific family, mostly, where if not managed tightly, the logic goes wonky, one player to another.

  3. #23
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    Where is JST Hiding.
    On #3 to ground I get 38 ohms. Its the #3 that goes to the break. Is this right? Or just tell me where to check.
    A Leaphart

  4. #24
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    The previous diagram will not load on my computer. All the pictures will, but not the drawing. One of those unsolved mysteries of life is why people use Photobucket.

    The second drawing is correct as far as connections to the transformer and DC out are concerned, but it is not connected to the brake. (brake, not break) One side goes to a light that has only one wire to it. Then there is a light green thing, whatever it is.

    Bill

  5. #25
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    brake.jpg

    The 3amp fuse keeps blowing and I'm trying to find out why. Its pulling 3.75 amps when the fuse blows. The wiring?

    Positive current flows out of the rectifier and goes to the Brake switch. Switch turned on it flows from the switch to a roller switch that's hooked to the apron lever. When the lathe is in neutral the currant flows across the roller switch and splits off two directions.( When lathe is in drive its open) Ones way goes to the brake inside the oil in the gear head and the other goes to a light. power goes through the light then to ground.(right now the light is blown)
    Negative side of the rectifier is grounded to the frame like the light's ground is and goes to #4 then over to the other #4 and dead ends. Between #3 and #4 is a thermal protector that I tested and seams good. Does the wiring look right? I'm trying to see if it's the wiring or the brake it's self in the head that i'm leaving for last to check due to me having to drain the oil to get to it.
    A Leaphart

  6. #26
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    Not hiding......

    if the protector is OK, then the brake or the light may be an issue, OR the 3A is not correct value for the fuse.

    The brake and the light, and whatever else is connected to 30V line must draw less than fuse rating.

    You say the light is not working.... so maybe there is a problem there.... check that, but it may be OK.

    How do you know the fuse is supposed to be 3A? Do you have a part list giving the value? Or is there a label showing 3A?

    What TYPE fuse? Maybe it IS supposed to be 3A, but it might be supposed to be a slow-blow, but actually has a fast blow in place. The brake may draw a surge when power is applied, which would be a good reason for a slow blow fuse..

    38 ohms would not draw even 1A on 30V. is the transformer really putting out 30V?

  7. #27
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    Thank's for the reply.
    The light bulb is blown. I got to replace it. Its a 24 volt bulb. The trans puts out 24Vcc.
    The manual doesn't say what size of fuse. The lathe has a slow blow 3A 250v fuse in it when i got the machine.
    A Leaphart

  8. #28
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    Option 1) replace three amp fuse with a paper clip. See what catches on fire.

    Option 2) put an ammeter in series with the fuse, disconnect all the wiring and hook up the various
    loads one at a time. See which one puts you over.

    Option 3) see that all the loads when connected add up to just 3 amps - then put a four amp fuse in there.


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