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Transformer choices for three speed motor

beckerkumm

Hot Rolled
Joined
Aug 5, 2014
Location
Wisconsin Rapids WI
I have a Smart and Brown 1024 lathe with a 575v three speed motor- 2.5 hp top end. I assume rewinding the motor to 240 will be ugly so looking to use a transformer. From my very limited knowledge I have three choices.

Isolation Transformer 240 delta to 575-600Y sized large enough to serve this machine and any others I might find in the future. I could also use a step down in reverse if HV is Y or I understand how to deal with the grounding issue.

Three phase autotransformer 3 kva that I would attach and dedicate to the machine. Lighter and smaller, maybe great until I get another but also easier to sell here in US as the machine will need a transformer if I sell here in US. Don't know if taps are available to adjust output

Two single phase 240-600 transformer wired open delta. Cost might be cheapest although a crap shoot here in WI as to what will come up in the used market.
I did something similar with a motor rewired from 550 to 275 and buck boost transformers so could probably figure out the wiring. I'm unsure of the size needed for the two transformers. Would 2kva each do it or would it take 3 kva?

I'm looking for advice as to the pros and cons that I likely have missed and what others might prefer in my situation. Thanks, Davetour_12_24_lathe.jpg
 
I have a Smart and Brown 1024 lathe with a 575v three speed motor- 2.5 hp top end. I assume rewinding the motor to 240 will be ugly so looking to use a transformer. From my very limited knowledge I have three choices.

Isolation Transformer 240 delta to 575-600Y sized large enough to serve this machine and any others I might find in the future. I could also use a step down in reverse if HV is Y or I understand how to deal with the grounding issue.

Three phase autotransformer 3 kva that I would attach and dedicate to the machine. Lighter and smaller, maybe great until I get another but also easier to sell here in US as the machine will need a transformer if I sell here in US. Don't know if taps are available to adjust output

Two single phase 240-600 transformer wired open delta. Cost might be cheapest although a crap shoot here in WI as to what will come up in the used market.
I did something similar with a motor rewired from 550 to 275 and buck boost transformers so could probably figure out the wiring. I'm unsure of the size needed for the two transformers. Would 2kva each do it or would it take 3 kva?

I'm looking for advice as to the pros and cons that I likely have missed and what others might prefer in my situation. Thanks, DaveView attachment 193133

A lathe as nice as a Smart & Brown deserves re-motored with a 240 3-P VAC one-speed 6 or even 8 pole Marathon Black Max and as good a VFD as could be found affordably.

Might cost twice as much as dicking around with transformers..but maybe not.

Sure would be nicer to use, though.

JM2CW - I would personally use Dee Cee, 10EE style, but only 'coz I have the otherwise gawdawful costly RPM III Type T motors and (much LESS costly) DC controllers already ratholed.
 
I'm torn as I like to keep rare stuff original if working well. The two speed Matrix gearbox and back gear would give me all the flexibility when mated to a vfd so I get what you are saying. If I can get into a transformer for 300-400 I will do that first. Can always decide to swap later. If the transformer thing gets too expensive, a 3 hp motor and vfd will go for 400-700. Dave
 
I'm torn as I like to keep rare stuff original if working well. The two speed Matrix gearbox and back gear would give me all the flexibility when mated to a vfd so I get what you are saying. If I can get into a transformer for 300-400 I will do that first. Can always decide to swap later. If the transformer thing gets too expensive, a 3 hp motor and vfd will go for 400-700. Dave

LOL! I'm probably 'worse', in that I consider my first 10EE to have 'gone viral', nice to use as Dee Cee drive can be!

That has caused me to accumulate two spare Dinosaur Current 10EE motors, plus nine others to convert - and have 100% ++ spares - for all the rest of the mills & drill presses under-roof to DC.

Basic DC Drives are happy as clams w/o need of de-rating when run off 1-P with silly-small conversion or operating losses.

Mind, a 2000 power-on-hour life for a set of brushes equates to 'rest of my life' for no more than I'll be running them, so it's one of those 'because I can' things like climbing a mountain.

Not to everyone's taste, IOW.

:)
 
I have modified a 1024 Mk 1to run on 240V single phase very successfully (4 years now). This involved a new motor, VFD, complete re-wire and a number of other electrical and mechanical changes. The lathe can be used in two modes: all controls work just as originally (i.e. three speed motor via rotary switch) OR in continuously variable mode. To acheive this result it is necessary to choose the right type of motor and primary drive ratio. A method of monitoring motor torque is also very desirable so you do not over-stress the Matrix gearbox.

I did a complete write up on this project. It is fairly long so I won't put it up here unless there is interest in it. If you think it would help I could email you a copy.
 
I have modified a 1024 Mk 1to run on 240V single phase very successfully (4 years now). This involved a new motor, VFD, complete re-wire and a number of other electrical and mechanical changes. The lathe can be used in two modes: all controls work just as originally (i.e. three speed motor via rotary switch) OR in continuously variable mode. To acheive this result it is necessary to choose the right type of motor and primary drive ratio. A method of monitoring motor torque is also very desirable so you do not over-stress the Matrix gearbox.

I did a complete write up on this project. It is fairly long so I won't put it up here unless there is interest in it. If you think it would help I could email you a copy.

I like the protection of gearbox concept. I'd be pleased to add a copy to my notes as a source for adaptations, as I play with drives more than make chips.

[email protected]

I also don't see a thing wrong with posting it on PM.

If we can entertain run-forever political threads, surely there is server & DB space for higher-protein contributions that actually carry "nutrition".

:)

TIA

Bill
 
I have a 575-V Aciera F5 mill I am setting up to run on a 240-V 1-phase supply. I already have a 10-hp American Rotary RPC that provides 240-V 3-phase for my Deckel FP2NC, so I am going with an open-delta 240-600V setup fed by the RPC for the Aciera. The 600-V secondary will be corner grounded as in a "separately derived system." (I don't like the idea of a floating 600-V ungrounded delta system.) I was able to get two Acme 1-phase 5 kVA 600-240-V dry type encapsulated transformers model T-2-53114-1S off eBay for pretty cheap. Both were about $150, and one shipped for about $70 and the other for $150, which still put me miles ahead of any other reasonable solution. I also picked up 240-V and 600-V fusible disconnects cheaply on eBay. Each transformer weighs 75 lb, so no fun wrestling around to hang on the wall!

I also have an Aciera F4 mill that had the same electricals as the F5. I swapped out the motors (spindle and feed) on that one, and added VFDs. That was an awful lot of work, because the feed motor has a custom flange, and the spindle motor had to be swapped end-for-end and a new motor mount fabricated to make it all fit.

I have a 208-600-V 3-ph open-delta autotransformer that came with the Aciera, but it won't work properly on 240-V supply, and has no taps for adjusting the output voltage. Want it? Come get it. :D
 
I can have a motor rewound for about 500 US $. I'm led to wonder the value of a transformer it the switchgear is sufficient for the newly planned voltage.

The original 3 speed motors have an 'interesting' design. If you want to go down this route I would make quite sure that the rewinders understand how it works before entrusting yours to them. The original motor + brake system was expensive when new and are now reaching unobtanium level. I desided to keep mine intact in store so a new owner could return everything to original condition if they wished.

Monarchist expressed interest so I will put the write up here.

Be warned, it was written for a different target audience in the UK - entirely different electrical standards and codes- and it is a long read.

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1024 Electrical Rebuild

About two years ago I started looking for a good Smart & Brown 1024 lathe for my workshop. I believed that this was the ideal lathe for my size and type of projects, but accepted that there would be one or two challenges in getting such a lathe set up and working. Foremost amongst these challenges was running the lathe from a single phase supply. I hoped to find a VSL model which has a Reeves type variable ratio drive, but despite looking at a couple of these I was unable to find one in good enough condition. In the end I bought a Mk1 1024 (no Reeves drive, just a gearbox) which had been all its life in a university workshop and was in generally good mechanical condition. This meant that I had to find a way to run a lathe with a 3 speed single voltage 415V main motor from a single phase supply.

There were several options:

1. Use a rotary converter, either bought or home built to produce a 415V three phase supply. This would mean that the lathe could be run as-is without any further modification. My experience with these units is that the noise from them although not especially loud is annoying, since it is always present. In addition it can be difficult to get a good balanced three phase supply at varying loads. A transformer would be needed to obtain the 415V supply.

2. Buy a ‘Phase Perfect’ type of unit that would provide 415V three phase supply for the whole of my workshop. This is an attractive option from the viewpoint of simplicity and silence, but a unit that could deliver sufficient power is extremely expensive, and my other machine tools have already been converted to run off single phase, so they would not benefit from this.

3. Convert to single phase motors for the main motor and suds pump. This is feasible, but a bit ‘agricultural’. The 1024 is a really high class lathe and it seemed a pity to inflict a rough running slam bang start single phase motor on it. Even worse, a single phase motor would have a single speed and this would drastically limit the range of speeds available.

4. Replace the main motor with a new dual voltage single speed inverter duty motor and build an inverter based power supply that would provide all the facilities of the original design. This is probably the most expensive option and the most complex by a large margin. It would provide a few major advantages if it could be made to work. The most significant to my mind were sophisticated speed control with good motor protection, soft starting enabling the initial current draw to be kept low, and a smooth quiet drive.

In the end I chose the last option and started a project that took many months to bring to a successful conclusion.

Design Issues

The Mk1 Smart & Brown 1024 has an unusual spindle drive. The main motor is a large, high quality three speed unit with (in my case) a brake. The motor changes speed via some complex wiring and a rotary switch mounted on the front control panel of the lathe. The drive is taken from the motor to an intermediate gearbox by a flat belt drive and crowned pulleys. The gearbox (made by Matrix) has two ratios, mechanically selected via a linkage to a control lever again on the control panel of the lathe. The gearbox can change speeds ‘on the fly’ via a pair of internal Matrix multi plate clutches. The drive is taken from the gearbox to the lathe spindle via a second flat belt drive. This drives a pulley mounted on its own set of bearings to avoid transmitting vibration and belt stresses to the spindle. Although this design of drive might seem archaic in some respects, it does provide a silky smooth and nearly silent drive when in good condition and contributes to the excellent finish for which this lathe is renowned. The design means that six spindle speeds are immediately available from the control panel without stopping the spindle to change speeds. An additional back gear is available selected by a handle on the headstock. This provides a total of twelve spindle speeds from 30 – 2500 rpm.

The original motor speeds are 2800, 1400 and 940 rpm, and the corresponding outputs are 2.5, 2 and 1.5 hp. That means that there is a ratio of nearly 3:1 between the lowest and highest motor speeds. A motor driven by a VFD can provide variable speeds of course, but a range as large as this is rather problematic. A normal 3 phase induction motor has a characteristic output with varying speeds. From zero up to its base speed it delivers roughly constant torque. From its base speed to its rated maximum speed it delivers roughly constant power. The corollary to this is that from zero to base speed the power of the motor rises with the speed, from very low power at low speeds to reach the rated output at the base speed. Over the base speed, the torque drops off as the speed rises, so that at high speeds the torque available is significantly diminished.

The original motor is single voltage – 415V. This has significant implications for a rebuild intended for domestic 240V use. Many modern 3 phase motors of around 3hp are dual voltage. This means that they can be connected to either 415V or 230V supplies. In the case of 415 V supply, the motors are connected in star configuration and for 230V in delta. A delta connected motor is very convenient since it can be driven by a low cost single phase 230V in and 230V three phase out VFD. Unfortunately a single voltage 415V motor cannot be driven in this way – transformers can be used but life becomes a bit more complex. Single phase 230V in, 3 phase 415V out VFDs are available, but they are expensive or the result of local modifications that may not have the manufacturers full approval.

Connecting a suitable VFD to a three speed motor might seem relatively easy – simply mimic the original wiring and feed the VFD provided 415V three phase supply to the rotary switch to allow the three speeds to be switched on the fly. If you read the manuals provided by the VFD suppliers you will find that they specifically warn against this type of arrangement. Any switches between the VFD and the motor that are capable of interrupting the supply under load might cause VFD failures. In reality modern VFDs may be capable of living with this, but the risk is still real, so best avoided.

I could have retained the original motor and used just one winding – say the middle speed. I didn’t do this because the motor isn’t designed for inverter use in this way and I felt that I would be stretching its design far too much to get the speed ratio I needed from it. The difficulty of supplying it with 415V further put me off pursuing this option. I decided to bite the bullet and buy a new, good quality, inverter rated, dual voltage motor.

The motor size I selected was 2.2 kW or 3 hp, so slightly larger than the original motor’s maximum power output. I chose a 4 pole motor, meaning that the motors synchronous speed at 50Hz would be 1500 rpm. The speed under its rated load would be slightly slower, say 1425 rpm. A 2 pole motor would have been twice this speed and an 8 pole half the speed. The choice was an engineering compromise as is often the case. A 4 pole motor favours the lower speed end of the range. I wanted to ensure sufficient torque in the lower spindle speeds, at the expense of torque in the highest speed of 2500, since I did not expect to use this high speed very often, and certainly not with a big chuck.

Modern VFDs have a ‘sensorless vector’ mode. Without getting into the details, this allows the VFD to deliver better performance at lower speeds. I selected a VFD that had sensorless vector control and was confident that with the four pole motor, I could successfully run at 940 rpm (or even less) with no problems. This just leaves the problem of reaching the higher motor speeds needed to deliver a spindle speed of 2500 rpm. That would require a VFD output of about 98Hz. This is well beyond sensible frequency limits for a normal motor. I decided that the maximum frequency I could use (based on some reading and study of motor performance charts) was about 80Hz. I parked this issue for a while as I considered how the new motor could be fitted mechanically.


Mechanical Matters

The original three speed motor is large, very heavy and was suspended by its feet from the underside of the gearbox mounting plate. The modern single speed motor is smaller and lighter, and had completely different foot/shaft dimensions. This meant that some new parts were needed to allow the new motor to line up with the gearbox input pulley. The flat belts used on this lathe are endless so ideally the new motor should be located in such a way that the original belt could be re-used. To get the motor into the required position, I designed a welded framework that dropped the motor by the required amount and allowed the existing tapped holes in the gearbox support plate to be used. The framework also moved the motor sideways so that the shaft would line up with the gearbox pulley.

To provide a bit of added interest, the position and mounting of the motor in this lathe is not user friendly. Getting the motor out safely required a timber framework to be made. I reused this when getting the new motor in position, but the whole exercise of measuring up for the weldment and moving motors in and out (several times) was extremely physical.

The new motor was metric and of course the shaft was a different size – 28 mm compared to 1”. As you would expect, the keyway was metric as well. I decided that it would be simpler to make a new pulley rather than trying to modify the existing pulley. Given this decision, I had the opportunity to change the ratio between the motor and gearbox a little to resolve the problem that I had with the higher speeds. I made the new pulley a little larger than the old one, sufficiently so as to bring the maximum spindle speed within reach of the motor running at 80Hz. This was a balanced change that did not take the lower limit of speed out of reach for the motor.



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Electrical Requirements

That took care of the major mechanical problems. What was left was a major electrical re-design. To understand this, a summary of the specification I was trying to meet might be useful. The goals and features I wanted to reach and achieve were:

1. To reuse all the existing controls in such a way that they worked in exactly the same way as they did on the original lathe. This included the speed range switch, jog switch, suds pump control, spindle forward, reverse and emergency stop.

2. To have the best possible motor protection. The motor that I bought had a built in thermistor so I wanted to utilise this as well as all the protection offered by the VFD.

3. To have fully continuous control over the spindle speed from a convenient control OR the original stepped speed control selectable from a switch.

4. To be able to stop the lathe quickly – hopefully as fast as the original motor brake did when new.

5. To make a much more powerful low voltage machine light.

6. To modify the suds pump to run off 230V rather than 415V.

7. To provide a tachometer to display the true spindle speed. This is very important given requirement 3.

8. To provide an ammeter display to show the current being drawn by the motor. I felt that this was important because the new motor is twice as powerful as the original motor in parts of its speed range. I have no idea how much torque the gearbox is capable of handling and do not wish to find out the hard way. The amps drawn by the motor are closely related to the torque it develops.

This all requires a lot of new electrical equipment:

• A VFD for the main motor;
• Brake resistor sized to stop the lathe quickly;
• Thermistor relay to disable the drive if the motor temperature rises too high;
• A small, simple VFD for the suds pump;
• A low voltage supply for the low voltage machine light;
• 240V single phase supply for a DRO;
• An enclosure for the above with fans and filtration;
• A box for the additional controls such as speed potentiometer, switches, power meter etc.

The use of a VFD is a slightly mixed blessing when a significant amount of control logic is required. The blessing is that all the control circuitry is low voltage and is determined, in the main, by the programming of the VFD parameters. The curse is that you have to work through the manual to see how to accomplish what you want and draw up suitable schematics to implement it.

I bought a Mitsubishi FR-D700 VFD. This is a good quality VFD and having reviewed my requirements I was fairly sure that it could do everything I required. This turned out to be true, but not necessarily in the way I had intended. A problem that I ran into was that some of the control terminals are dual purpose. If you use them for one purpose, they are unavailable for the other purposes. This showed up when I needed to implement the 3 switched motor speeds. This on its own is no problem, because the VFD provides just this function and 3 terminals for Low, Medium and High speeds. Unfortunately it turns out that you need to use one of those terminals to implement latched start and stop if you want to use ‘3-wire’ control with momentary contact switches (and I did of course). This stalled me for a while and I resorted to calling the suppliers who were most helpful. They pointed out that for three speeds I needed 3 distinct logical states (say 00, 01, 11) and that this is obtainable from two terminals, provided that I programmed the VFD accordingly. This was really good support and enabled me to work out a schematic which implemented the 3 speed switching. Another problem was to work out how to make the speed control switchable between continuous potentiometer control, and the stepped speed control from the original lathe control panel. In this respect the Mitsubishi control was excellent, since it is able to sense that if the multiple speed control is not in circuit, it should default back to continuous analogue control via a potentiometer. This is precisely what is needed for this bit of logic.

I needed a low voltage regulated supply (5V) for the tachometer that I selected. This was the RevMaster unit, designed by Tony Jefree. I know Tony well and have used this tachometer on other projects, so it was a natural choice for me. I also needed a 12V supply for the fans that I chose for my enclosure. These are standard PC fans that are very good value for money compared to other units. I decided to use 12V for my replacement machine light, so this again needed to be provided. The cheapest way to provide these low voltages is with a PC power supply, so I purchased one at a good price. These switched power supplies can provide more than enough current at these voltages and the voltage is quite closely regulated. They do need a little rewiring to ensure that they switch on and provide supply. Two changes are needed for most of them. The first is to find the wiring that corresponds to the PC front ON/OFF switch and to make this connection permanent. The second is to provide some load that will persuade the power supply to switch on and stay on. In a PC this load would come from the motherboard, but it is necessary to replicate this with a power resistor in other applications. The power resistor does get warm, so it should be mounted inside the power supply case in a position that will get some air from the fan.

Wiring

With a full schematic, I could just proceed to wire everything up. Well not quite. There are a few minor problems to be sorted out. The first and biggest is where to put all this electrical equipment. I have faced this issue before when carrying out a similar exercise with my mill. I was lucky in that case because I was able to find a never-used, stainless steel enclosure on Ebay that although apparently rather large was otherwise perfect. The lesson I learned is that an enclosure may look big when you just lay out the equipment that has to go into it, but as soon as you wire it up, it magically shrinks to the point of being awkward. I was determined that I would buy an enclosure that would be easy to work on for my lathe, but for this machine I wanted the enclosure to be physically attached to the lathe, rather than free-standing. On the S&B 1024, there is really only one logical place for an enclosure to go, and that is on the large steel plate that covers up the gearbox and motor at the rear of the lathe. That unfortunately limits the practical size of the enclosure somewhat. Again I bought a box that I thought was big enough, but actually wasn’t.

Laying out the enclosure backplate for all the large bits of kit is made a lot easier with CAD to help assess different options. I used DIN rail to hold relays and terminal strips. Power distribution is made a lot easier with commoning blocks, which are also mounted on DIN rail. By the time everything had been fitted in the enclosure, it was heavy and this presented some problems in finally fitting it to the cover plate and the whole assembly to the lathe. Again, a timber frame proved useful.

I wanted a good low voltage machine light. The lathe had a ‘LoVolt’ light taking power from an isolating transformer. I could have bought a new light, but good quality costs a lot of money. The new 12V high intensity LEDs are very impressive, so I made an adaptor so that one of these could be mounted in the original lamp housing. The 12V DC supply for this came from the PC power supply.

Wiring up the lathe required a significant amount of wire. I used an entire reel of 0.75mm wire for the control circuitry. It is important not to skimp on the wire gauge for connecting the motors and the mains supply, so I was generous with these. Crimp terminals make a good secure termination and a professional result. I also used bootlace crimp terminals for the push in and screw connectors on the VFD control connections. To make future maintenance easier, I labelled all the wiring using a Rhino wire labelling system, bought second-hand. Hopefully this will mean that my successors can see how it all works. All the original switchgear was in excellent condition and was originally designed to switch 415V, so was vastly over-specified for the new setup. I had to modify the rotary switch to get the required logic from it. These switches are designed in a modular fashion to suit many different uses, but it took me a couple of evening with a multimeter and some drawings before I got the switching pattern that I needed.

A small control box was needed to house the speed control, the switch that selects either continuous or stepped speed control, the tachometer display and the ammeter. I used a diecast Aluminium box and machined out the lid to give the required apertures. The labelling of the controls was made easy by printing an acetate slide of the design that I wanted and clamping this against the front of the box with a transparent plastic sheet. This gave an attractive result that can be easily cleaned.

The control box needs to be easy to see and reach, as does the DRO which I also purchased and installed. I selected a Newall DRO, which is easy to fit and gives all the functions that I needed. To achieve this visibility and accessibility, a mounting bracket is needed. I welded one up from box section with swinging arms on which the DRO and control box would fit. My lathe headstock was already drilled and tapped at the rear. This was definitely not original because the threads were M8 and M6 – most unlikely for the Smart & Brown factory. I don’t know what these were used for on my lathe since they were just open holes when I bought it. I suspect it might have had another DRO at some time in its past since there were also drilled and tapped (metric) holes on the cross slide in roughly the right places. I decided to use the headstock holes for my new mounting bracket.


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Nice write up!

I'll add that 'Pee Cee' mobo PSU are over-powered and overly complex for this task. Many need (at least) an R/C gadget to 'cheat' the 'power good' lead so the PSU fires at all, some respond to remote over-temp thermistors, have CPU fan RPM feedback, have 3.3 as well as 5.0 VDC, most have -5 VDC and -12 VDC, needed or not, and ONLY the 3.3 or 5.0 is actually regulated, anyway - the other voltages run from a ref 'derived' from the 'main' one, yadda yadda.

All of that is wasted expense and/or annoying effort to deal with.

Far more appropriate to use the smaller and simpler PSU - ordinarily +5 and +12 V ONLY, that are sold to power an add-on box of CD/DVD or hard disk drives.

I had been a "Power One" customer since their first year in the biz, still find their small industrial packaged PSU far the better deal, yet.

Enclosed, potted, non-ventilated 'wall warts' and laptop PSU, I'd avoid. I've had at least one fail of each even among Apple, IBM, or Dell's top of the line units.

You do not need a ten-dollah salvaged PSU failing and possibly putting line-voltage into a control line on a $500 VFD, no matter how briefly.
 
Thanks for the info. I'll read tonight and try to understand. Relating to the two transformers wired open delta, what is the proper way to size them? I Figured 3 kva if I went with a three phase transformer for the 2.5 hp motor. I don't know if using two single phase transformers allow me to size each at 2 kva or if 3 is still the proper size.

PS Original motor is 1200,1800, and 3600 rpm. Dave
 
I believe the Acme transformer catalog has info on how to translate ratings from 1-phase to 3-phase open delta. You get to multiple by sqrt(3). Thus, while two 1-ph transformers don't provide twice the kVA, they are not too far, at 1.7 times. If you need 3 kVA 3-phase, then Acme's catalog would indicate you need two 1.7-kVA 1-phase transformers wired open delta. 2 kVA units would do it, and might even be a little overkill on a lathe seeing intermittent operation at nowhere near full load.
 
Nice write up!

I'll add that 'Pee Cee' mobo PSU are over-powered and overly complex for this task. Many need (at least) an R/C gadget to 'cheat' the 'power good' lead so the PSU fires at all, some respond to remote over-temp thermistors, have CPU fan RPM feedback, have 3.3 as well as 5.0 VDC, most have -5 VDC and -12 VDC, needed or not, and ONLY the 3.3 or 5.0 is actually regulated, anyway - the other voltages run from a ref 'derived' from the 'main' one, yadda yadda.

All of that is true. Purpose built industrial PSs can be more compact. However in this case I needed both 5V (well regulated) and 12V (regulation not so critical). The big advantage of ordinary desktop PC power supplies are that they are cheap. Only a small PC power supply is needed of course. I usually strip old PCs of anthing useful before scrapping the rest, so I could even have used an old one (free). The patches needed inside a PC power supply to make it start and stay up are fairly trivial.
 
Thanks. I thought 2x2x.83 was the conversion that should work but also saw where .57 was in some circumstances the derating. I was hoping 2 kva as they are lighter to ship. Dave
 
Dave, I'll keep my eye open for autotransformer. I might be able to even get it moved down your way. I have a 6 kva I might retire this summer.
 
I got through the write up. don't understand all but working on it. I do have a theoretical question about gaining some top end on your conversion. the voltages I'm using are standard US so yours will differ but the theory should hold.

Could you have bought a 208v motor and a small buck boost transfomer- here in US a 240-277 or so is prety small and cheap. Fed 277 into the vfd and programed it for 208v @60 hz. That would allow you to maintain the volt-hz relationship up to about 90 hz and allow more top end speed. Are there flaws in the thinking ( usually are in my world )? Dave
 
All of that is true. Purpose built industrial PSs can be more compact. However in this case I needed both 5V (well regulated) and 12V (regulation not so critical).

Well, yes, both is what you get.

Mind - a 2.5" HDD 'only' enclosure PSU could be missing the 12V.

3.5", CD/DVD, 'mixed' enclosure PSU have both 5V and 12V, if only for the legacy fans AND the odd mini/ nano industrial CPU board to make them into a NAS. Most of those are +5 only, +12 only, or +5 & +12 only, no longer need the negative power lines nor any of the PSU-specific signals.
 
I got through the write up. don't understand all but working on it. I do have a theoretical question about gaining some top end on your conversion. the voltages I'm using are standard US so yours will differ but the theory should hold.

Could you have bought a 208v motor and a small buck boost transfomer- here in US a 240-277 or so is prety small and cheap. Fed 277 into the vfd and programed it for 208v @60 hz. That would allow you to maintain the volt-hz relationship up to about 90 hz and allow more top end speed. Are there flaws in the thinking ( usually are in my world )? Dave

Yes there are flaws in part of your thinking, but yes you can take advantage of a 208 volt motor (200 volts on the nameplate) to give you more headroom to shove 240 volts at 60hz (200 volt motors are often 50hz nominal) or 70 hz before you loose any torque. the vfd can't generate more volts than you put in.

277 volts may not be too much for a 240 volt VFD. you will get a minimum of 390 volts on the dc bus, i would make sure the vfd has a brake resistor properly functioning because any line spikes will trip the vfd on overvoltage if there is nothing to pull it down, and you need an ac line reactor on the front end so that the brake resistor can actually do that, some kind of passive or active voltage stabilization would be needed in real life. many vfds have 450 volt rated capacitors so the 390 volts you get is fine there. some of the electronics will have increased losses but usually everything in a 240vac vfd could theoretically operate at 600vdc, however the lack of conformal coating means your higher voltage significantly improves your chances of blow out.

my guess is it will be difficult to get a 240v vfd to work on 277. maybe 260.

If you want to push your limits use a 480 volt or 415 volt nominal vfd on a 240 volt motor, that will give you the voltage to turn your say, 2 hp 60hz 240volt motor into a 4 hp 120hz 480v motor. not usually recommended due to insulation problems in the motor, not to mention dynamic balance problems at 7200 rpm (3600 rpm on a 4 pole motor is probably not a problem)

or just take any 240v motor and rewire it for 138volts delta and get a larger vfd. current will be 1.73 times nameplate.
 
That would make more sense. A 3kw 240-480 transformer before the vfd and a 240 v 1800 rpm motor with the proper sized pulley. Torque on the Matrix might be an issue. I fear that 7200 would be hard on motor and bearings too. Given that 240-480 transformers are pretty cheap, it would be a good experiment. I'd still like to keep the S & B original for now though.

This is all helpful. thanks, Dave
 








 
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