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Welder hookup to RPC

Paul Cataldo

Stainless
Joined
Dec 9, 2004
Location
Atlanta, GA
I have a 20hp RPC, and currently hooking up a Miller CP302. I will post measured, no load voltages below for each leg of the RPC yo GRD, and also across LEG-LEG.
My question is this. Does it matter where I run the generated/wild leg into the CP302?
I know with motors, it doesnt matter, and if you switch any two legs, that reverses motor rotation. But how about resistive loads like this welder? Does the wild generated leg matter where its ran to inside the CP302 welder?

LEGS TO GROUND
L1 120.8v
L2 186v (generated/ghost leg)
L3 121v

LEG-LEG

L1/L3 241.5v
L1/L2 223.8v
L2/L3 217v

Voltages are right at 10% difference max between the highest and lowest legs.

RPC has not been balanced with run caps. I do have a heavy sheave and 20hp idler is 1765rpm. I hear this heavy sheave and lower rpm motors can help balance things out?
Does anyone feel I'll have any problems with these voltages having used no means to balance the legs?
 
Well I tried running the CP302 on 20hp RPC. I'm getting the dreaded NO WELD OUTPUT LIGHT that is lit up. Fan motor IS running.
I'm getting 118v at receptacle down below and I tried resetting CB1 and CB2. This is all manual states to check in troubleshooting guide.
Unsure if slight imbalance across 3 legs is culprit or not?
Fuse in S52e feeder is good and I tried resetting button on feeder as well.
If anyone could help I'd be super grateful.
 
In case anyone can help out, I should mention I have only tried the 230v tap setting.
I have not yet tried the 200/220v tap setting and wondering if that is not only safe to try, but might possibly solve my no weld output issue?
 
I looked at an online manual for a cp302 and it says the light is a preset voltage indicator vs voltage when welding and light is then off. So, does the voltmeter show an output voltage? Does anything click when triggering the gun? Have you tried this welder on real 3 phase power?

I don't think the welder has any smarts for low or out of balance power. I think a problem is more likely in the gun trigger/feeder interface
 
Bill, thanks for asking. There is no contactor. Only 3 SCR's. So no clicking.
Anyhow, I made a few adjustments and tightened up some very loose connections and got it welding.
I am wondering however, if anyone feels it might be best to switch to the 200/220v taps if that might possibly mke a difference?
 
Your need to look at those voltages (line to line) while the welder is welding. I strongly suspect that the low voltage leg will drop even further. Some balance capacitors may be needed.

That said, I run my welders off an RPC and I have no idea what the voltages are when loaded. But I have balance capacitors that increase the voltage so that the unloaded voltage is greater than nominal.

Out of curiosity, how are you starting that 20 hp RPC?
 
Bill, yeah all that measuring is easier with a helper around, which I don't currently have. I also don't have a voltmeter with a memory. Been putting off a Fluke 376FC purchase for far too long. Soon it is coming.
As for the 20hp RPC, it is pony start for sure. Little $50 1hp Leeson I copped off ebay. I hinged the pony motor and then I drop it out both physically and electrically after the big 20 gets up to 1765rpm.
I wouldn't even want to fool with trying to cap start it. Although I have done so before with smaller RPC's.
I built this entire RPC using a big 20hp Furnas motor starter, I even used overload relays and momentary pushbuttons etc. All self taught, but truthfully, and despite all that, I still don't know exactly how to balance these things with run caps.
I know you somehow wire the caps across the legs and I get the general idea, but since I'm the furthest thing you'll ever meet from an industrial electrician, I just haven't figured that part out yet. I'll get there.
 








 
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