Information on W&S No 2 M-1330
Close
Login to Your Account
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 21
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Washington
    Posts
    82
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1
    Likes (Received)
    4

    Default Information on W&S No 2 M-1330

    Moving to W&S alumni forum.

    Won this W&S no 2 lathe (m-1330) on an auction today, and would be most grateful for any info on it! (I pick it up on Friday). I am totally new to turret lathes! (have several engine lathes.

    Specifically:
    - Horsepower
    - Spindle info - through spindle capacity and chuck mount type (threaded, cam lock, etc - comes with 3-jaw chuck)
    - Approx year built - Serial is 532307 - looks like lot 685? (see photo)
    - Info about collet system - power draw? Taper and collet type?
    - Approx weight
    - Anyone have a user's manual? (I found a parts manual, could really use a user's manual!!!!)

    Thanks!

    8161599_0.jpg

    8161600_0.jpg

    8161601_0.jpg

    8161602_8.jpg

    8161603_0.jpg

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Country
    AUSTRALIA
    Posts
    2,007
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    9
    Likes (Received)
    612

    Default

    You wont find a users manual,just mounting plan,wiring hookup,and a schedule of capacities.......best to get one of the Colvin and Stanley books....often found in new condition on ebay for a few $+post.....The machine looks 40s/50s......wartime is very likely.....watch out picking the machine up by the tray with a forklift.....the trays arent meant to take upward load,and the mounting points may break,or you may bend the tray up in the middle.Block the tray against the bed with timbers at the tyne points.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Washington
    Posts
    82
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1
    Likes (Received)
    4

    Default

    Thanks- picked up the lathe yesterday, and am it turns out that I have the service and parts manual that came with the lathe! Is there no such thing as an owner's manual for this lathe that describes all of the features and functions, etc?

    Also- how can I find out the date of manufacture? Serial is 532307, and lot is 68 (thought it was 685, but the "5" wasn't a digit, looks like a small logo).

    Any information would be most appreciated!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    South Central PA
    Posts
    13,493
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    2205
    Likes (Received)
    3435

    Default

    I've never seen a user's manual, or an instruction manual. There could be one, but I've never seen one. I recommend finding a W&S turret lathe tools book, it shows shows the attachments available and a basic idea of how they are mounted and used. You're going to be doing most of your work with turret mounted tools because the #2 doesn't have a carriage with Z axis feed like the 3 through 5 does, so knowing how to use the turret tools is first task..

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Washington
    Posts
    82
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1
    Likes (Received)
    4

    Default

    Yeah- just planning parting, grooving and simple ops with the cross-slide. Need to figure out how the ratchet bar feeder works!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Washington
    Posts
    82
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1
    Likes (Received)
    4

    Default

    .... and need to figure out the collet system! Very different than my drawbar 5C collet system on my other lathes.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    South Central PA
    Posts
    13,493
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    2205
    Likes (Received)
    3435

    Default

    The collets are unique to W&S. The closer pushes on the collet to close, not pull. There's a tube inside the spindle that is pushed by the closer mechanism. You take the chuck off, put the master collet into the spindle, then bolt the spindle nose on over top of the master collet. There are access holes in the nose to allow you to reach inside and change the collet pads in the master collet. There are also one piece collets but the master collet and collet pads are more common. Each size of machine has it's own size of collet and pads.Your parts manual should show this.
    Can't help with the bar feeder, I don't have one.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Washington
    Posts
    82
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1
    Likes (Received)
    4

    Default

    That makes total sense fortunately I have all of the parts including the spindle nose collet adapter!

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    E-burg MD USA
    Posts
    580
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    3
    Likes (Received)
    95

    Default

    GG Sir,
    There is indeed a operators manual.. Ebay is your friend in this regard. Also there is a wealth of knowledge on this site, just ask. Nice handy little machine ya got there.. Lot's to learn. Don't overlook the tool catalogues as there are alot of explanations of how things work there to...
    Stay safe
    Calvin B
    dscf3341-medium-.jpg

  10. Likes Mud liked this post
  11. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Washington
    Posts
    82
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1
    Likes (Received)
    4

    Default

    Thanks, I'll look at those! Anyone know on this No 2 turret lathe how to spin the turret manually? The scenario is there are three tools being used, and after the third operation, the turret needs to be manually rotated back into the #1 tool position. Thanks!

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Kansas
    Posts
    259
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    6
    Likes (Received)
    51

    Default

    Good iron if not worn out.
    It should have a two speed constant torque motor 7-1/2HP on High & 3-3/4HP on low. They normally come with a 6 lead motor which means it's voltage specific. I have reconfigured one motor from 480 back to 220 but it's very tedious work. The two speed motor greatly enhances the versatility of the machine. If the starter/contactor for the motor is not in working condition, it can be costly to replace.

    I miss my W&S frequently and wish i'd never sold it.

    as for operating, you can go broke buying genuine tooling aside of that it's a lathe that is capable of taking very heavy cuts and has a bunch of nice stops. Make Chips!

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Washington
    Posts
    82
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1
    Likes (Received)
    4

    Default

    Thanks R_Audano- this one actually has a 5hp / 2.5hp two speed motor- looks original. Any thoughts on the manual indexing/rotation of the turret?

    Just got the collets buffed out, and tried out the collet nose with a collet and some bar stock- works great, and the chuck is easy enough to install/remove. Can't wait to get this baby into production mode! Looking at RPC units as I don't have 3-phase in the shop.

    Thanks,
    Gavin

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    E-burg MD USA
    Posts
    580
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    3
    Likes (Received)
    95

    Default

    GG sir,
    If you are referring to the turret there should be a information plate on the back of the ram ( opposite side of the normal operators position or just the back side ). Make sure the turret is adjusted accordingly. So then you should be able to move the turret ram to the rear and you will hear ( or at least you should hear ) a click.. that is the turret unlocking at this point you should be able to manually rotate the turret. If you continue rearward the turret should rotate at the end of the stroke.. Your machine looks to be in need of a good cleaning and a good oiling/greasing. It's been my experience that folks tend to use the wrong grease in the various zerks and things get 'grease bound' and cease to work as they should.. but on the positive side it tends to preserve things quite well.
    Hope this helps
    Stay safe
    Calvin

  15. #14
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    South Central PA
    Posts
    13,493
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    2205
    Likes (Received)
    3435

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by gavingear View Post
    Thanks, I'll look at those! Anyone know on this No 2 turret lathe how to spin the turret manually? The scenario is there are three tools being used, and after the third operation, the turret needs to be manually rotated back into the #1 tool position. Thanks!
    eed the turret toward the spindle, then retract it. As you retract it, pull the active tool outward toward you(counterclockwise looking down). Just before it indexes, it will release and move toward you, stop retracting it there and move the next tool you want into the position one station before the active tool and finish retracting the turret. It's simpler than my description, honest.
    F

  16. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    E-burg MD USA
    Posts
    580
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    3
    Likes (Received)
    95

    Default

    GG Sir,
    Hey just a 'heads up'.. There is a zerk under the round cap on the top of your turret that needs grease from time to time and it's often overlooked. Also it looks like you are missing an oil cup on top of the turret.. Stick something in that hole to keep the chips out til you get a proper cup. As fur rpc's I've had excellent results with American rotary. Good product and good folks to deal with and their stuff is easy to install.. Lot's of info on their site and they will take calls 24/7.
    Just a personal question... Did you score all the tooling that was on the wall in the pictures ? There was at least three or four times the value of your machine in that somewhat rare two bolt #2 tooling..
    Goods score no matter what.. BTW my #3 has the same motor as yours.. I start it all the time with a 7.5 AR rpc.. Gotta always start in the low speed and let the motor come up to speed and then push the high speed button.. Never push the low speed button when the machine is in high.. Just shut it off and let it coast down and then hit the low speed starter..
    Probably TMI but I really have a soft spot for these old machines... ( they are real work horses )
    Stay safe
    Calvin B

  17. Likes gavingear liked this post
  18. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Washington
    Posts
    82
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1
    Likes (Received)
    4

    Default

    OK, that did it! The turret it is locked when in rear most position but if you rotate the turret just after it starts indexing on the way back it will rotate in the direction of indexing and you stop just before the position you want to advance to- it locks that next position as the turret goes towards the rear and locks.

  19. #17
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    South Central PA
    Posts
    13,493
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    2205
    Likes (Received)
    3435

    Default

    Be aware that you can get the turret to lock slightly (or a lot) out of position when moving it by hand. I avoid that by always allowing it to index itself just as you described.

  20. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Washington
    Posts
    82
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1
    Likes (Received)
    4

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by calvin b View Post
    GG Sir,
    Hey just a 'heads up'.. There is a zerk under the round cap on the top of your turret that needs grease from time to time and it's often overlooked. Also it looks like you are missing an oil cup on top of the turret.. Stick something in that hole to keep the chips out til you get a proper cup. As fur rpc's I've had excellent results with American rotary. Good product and good folks to deal with and their stuff is easy to install.. Lot's of info on their site and they will take calls 24/7.
    Just a personal question... Did you score all the tooling that was on the wall in the pictures ? There was at least three or four times the value of your machine in that somewhat rare two bolt #2 tooling..
    Goods score no matter what.. BTW my #3 has the same motor as yours.. I start it all the time with a 7.5 AR rpc.. Gotta always start in the low speed and let the motor come up to speed and then push the high speed button.. Never push the low speed button when the machine is in high.. Just shut it off and let it coast down and then hit the low speed starter..
    Probably TMI but I really have a soft spot for these old machines... ( they are real work horses )
    Stay safe
    Calvin B
    Calvin- yes, I did get all of the tooling on the wall- which of the tooling is considered "Two bolt"? Would that be box tool support/cutters- or the post tooling that appears to hold parting tools and what not?

    BTW: I got a Rubometric 1" die head (opening type) with 13 sets of functional chasers- I paid $660. + seller's premium for the lathe, and I think that's about what the Rubometric die head and chasers are worth!

  21. #19
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Kansas
    Posts
    259
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    6
    Likes (Received)
    51

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by gavingear View Post
    Thanks R_Audano- this one actually has a 5hp / 2.5hp two speed motor- looks original. Any thoughts on the manual indexing/rotation of the turret?

    Just got the collets buffed out, and tried out the collet nose with a collet and some bar stock- works great, and the chuck is easy enough to install/remove. Can't wait to get this baby into production mode! Looking at RPC units as I don't have 3-phase in the shop.

    Thanks,
    Gavin
    You should have plenty of horsepower. Hopefully its the right voltage. As already stated, tear things apart and clean. These jewels were made to run around the clock. Consequently chips, oil, coolant etc are forced into places that are beyond imagination. Over time indexing pins and links get gummed up. The box ways were hardened on mine and my machine cut amazingly straight when properly leveled. If it dodnt come with rear mounted tooling make some. A rear mounted inverted cut-off tool does an amazing job with ridgitity built into that machine.

    Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

  22. #20
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Texas
    Posts
    3
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    1

    Default

    I’d contact Gahr Machine Company in Euclid, Ohio for questions on anything Warner & Swasey related. They have rows of tooling in their warehouse and service manuals specific to W&S machinery. They’ve helped me in the past. Gahr Machine Company - Warner & Swasey Parts, Tools, Repair Services


Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •