Gearbox/clutch issue - Page 3
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  1. #41
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    I finally managed to track down the other planer that was there when I bought this one.

    Looky how it was originally set up.

    It did have a brake set up inside the gear box.



    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  2. #42
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    Sorry I didn't see this thread earlier...

    after having worked on LOTS of machines, but NONE of them planers... I recognized this setup from many other applications.

    The closest comparison, is the Allis Chalmers Power Director as found on the D-series. My D17 of 1957 has one, and while it looks different, the operational concept is identical... high range, neutral, and low range.

    Adjustment of these units all comes back to preload. There needs to be enough spring pressure to grip the steels together tight when there's no release pressure.

    After that, getting them to release is about having enough release throw on the detent.

    Even WITH both packs completely released (neutral), there's enough drag between steels (even with oil) for a little effort to be felt, so a positive brake MUST be employed in order to enforce a stop of the load side. The low-range side ALWAYS generates the predominant force and speed at the output... because it's the lowest drive ratio- it has the greatest mechanical advantage.

    Obviously, the presence of the brake block in the cover (or lack thereof) was the easiest fact to overlook, because it was on the cover, which was off, while you were looking at it.

    Now, when you're getting it back together, the brake, and it's contact surface will have operational wear, so you may have to either add a shim to a brake block, or weld on material and grind it to appropriate height, not to be 'stock', but to accommodate whatever was lost from both the block AND the surface of the low-range spool.

    Next:

    The steels need to release CLEAN. Unfortunately, the steels' tabs tend to wear little depressions in the spool housings, and as a result, when they're spinning RELEASED, they tend to seek those depressions, thereby causing undesired friction against the discs. Furthermore, the disks' internal splines do the same for the inner shaft.

    SO... if you REALLY want it to work really, really, really well... you'd need to dress the slots, the tabs, the splines... so that they're all true, clean, smooth, and fit snug, but not too-snug-to-move.

    I personally would NOT invest incredible time in trying to make it 'perfect', because the mechanism is, by virtue of it's complexity, not going to stay perfect for very long... and imperfect will only be so imperfect.

    BTW... thin hydraulic oil is what's used on the Power Director, and on lots of the thin multiplate steel-on-steel clutches and brakes I've worked on. It doesn't need to be very thick to do it's job here, and thicker isn't better.

    Hopefully you've figured the brake-block out... sorry I didn't chime in sooner.

    Now for the devil-in-the-details:

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  4. #43
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    I am hopefully going to get my hands on that brake assembly so it can be copied. That part was not there when I first took the gear box apart as there was apparently numerous crashes inside that box, broken and repaired and broken shaft.

    I would like the machine to operate as it was designed.

    I believe I figured out who made the gear box as well, but dealing directly with German companies is a PIA.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk


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