AndyF
Stainless
- Joined
- Nov 3, 2003
- Location
- Phelps, NY, USA
I'll be resawing some 12" wide Maple boards for a kitchen counter project and am looking for a good resawing blade that I can use on my Jet saw. Any suggestions?
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Good Resaw blade for a Jet 18" bandsaw
- Thread starter AndyF
- Start date
- Replies 38
- Views 10,527
stephen thomas
Diamond
- Joined
- Jun 3, 2001
Imagine you can run 3/4" wide? I'd use a 3 tooth Hook with raker if possible.
Never used this particular item, but have used Olsen and they are about as good as any.
Buy Olson All Pro Bandsaw Blade 111" x 3/4" x 3 TPI Hook Tooth at Woodcraft.com
The "Wood Slicer" bands have a good rep, but i tend to think they are overpriced. Then again, I've never bought any for just that reason.
maybe someone here who has used them as well as more generic 3 or 4T Hook bands can comment?
The bands on my saw are 16'-6" so I tend to buy them from jobbers who will make them up from coil stock. I like Morse, but no better than Olsen, or Timberwolf, or others. Since I freehand sharpen them, they eventually become the desirable variable pitch configuration.
This is the blade i usually buy, but in a wider width for my saw. Nothing special about them, and maybe thicker than ideal for your saw, but good quality for the money. I can't figure out how to get an online page where they quote welding these, but it is an option in the print catalog. http://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/03258035
Never used this particular item, but have used Olsen and they are about as good as any.
Buy Olson All Pro Bandsaw Blade 111" x 3/4" x 3 TPI Hook Tooth at Woodcraft.com
The "Wood Slicer" bands have a good rep, but i tend to think they are overpriced. Then again, I've never bought any for just that reason.
maybe someone here who has used them as well as more generic 3 or 4T Hook bands can comment?The bands on my saw are 16'-6" so I tend to buy them from jobbers who will make them up from coil stock. I like Morse, but no better than Olsen, or Timberwolf, or others. Since I freehand sharpen them, they eventually become the desirable variable pitch configuration.
This is the blade i usually buy, but in a wider width for my saw. Nothing special about them, and maybe thicker than ideal for your saw, but good quality for the money. I can't figure out how to get an online page where they quote welding these, but it is an option in the print catalog. http://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/03258035
richard newman
Titanium
- Joined
- Jul 28, 2006
- Location
- rochester, ny
A critical part of re-sawing is having adequate blade tension. I wouldn't trust the scales on any of the smaller machines, you need to calibrate them with a tension gauge (pricey!). In my experience with a 20" Powermatic 81, I had to bottom out the spring and then keep cranking to get proper tension on a 1/2" x .025" blade. No way one could tension a 3/4" blade. I seem to remember Fine Woodworking mag coming to a similar conclusion and recommending the use of a 3/8" bi-metallic blade on a Delta 14" saw.
My Tannewitz 36" is another story entirely, but even on that machine I prefer to use a 1/2" 4 tpi blade for resawing to minimize the kerf. Bigger, coarser blades are faster, but not really any more accurate if I'm patient and don't push the saw too heavily. I have sawn 22" wide mahogany veneers 1/16 thick this way. Most critical was the setup with a rigid fence, pressure fingers and controlled feed (I used a winch)
So, I'm not familiar with the Jet 18", but I'd try a 1/2" 3 or 4 tpi hook blade. I like Lenox blades, both carbon steel and bi-metallic. Not expensive, and easy to find.
How thick is your material and what are you hoping to end up with for final thickness? How much of it do you need to saw up? I'd expect some serious cupping as the maple (hard?) comes off the saw, unless the wood has been dried completely stress-free, or is quartersawn.
My Tannewitz 36" is another story entirely, but even on that machine I prefer to use a 1/2" 4 tpi blade for resawing to minimize the kerf. Bigger, coarser blades are faster, but not really any more accurate if I'm patient and don't push the saw too heavily. I have sawn 22" wide mahogany veneers 1/16 thick this way. Most critical was the setup with a rigid fence, pressure fingers and controlled feed (I used a winch)
So, I'm not familiar with the Jet 18", but I'd try a 1/2" 3 or 4 tpi hook blade. I like Lenox blades, both carbon steel and bi-metallic. Not expensive, and easy to find.
How thick is your material and what are you hoping to end up with for final thickness? How much of it do you need to saw up? I'd expect some serious cupping as the maple (hard?) comes off the saw, unless the wood has been dried completely stress-free, or is quartersawn.
Somewhere....somewhere I recall Lennox wanting 40,000 psi. strain applied.
The wood slicer is the one to get. I use it for cutting maple tops for guitars. A pretty similar use.
Wood Slicer Bandsaw Blade | Custom Length Bandsaw Blades
Wood Slicer Bandsaw Blade | Custom Length Bandsaw Blades
AndyF
Stainless
- Joined
- Nov 3, 2003
- Location
- Phelps, NY, USA
I purchased the boards as kiln dried boards ~15 years ago. Most are a fat 8/4, but a few narrower boards are 12/4. I plan to rip them to an ~6" width as I have a max 10" height available on the bandsaw. I'll cut the ripped boards to 4/4 and finish, hopefully ending up with close to 3/4" finished thickness. I used most of the boards from this lot years ago to make a table and benches for my kids and as I remember, the maple stayed flat for the few small pieces that I had to resaw. I'll be resawing at most 30 board feet.
Newman109
Diamond
- Joined
- Sep 4, 2006
I have a 1971 model 14" wood cutting Delta bandsaw. I added the height kit at the time that I bought the saw new. When I was making guitars, I used a 3/4" skip tooth blade with either 3 or 4 teeth. I often resawed 2X10" rough lumber in spruce, mahogany and rosewood to 3/16" so that it could later be planed to size.
I have tried 1/2" blades but they tend to wander if you use too much pressure. My vote is for a skip tooth blade in 3/4". I just tension the blade on the tension scale on the rear of the upper wheel. It works for me.
I have tried 1/2" blades but they tend to wander if you use too much pressure. My vote is for a skip tooth blade in 3/4". I just tension the blade on the tension scale on the rear of the upper wheel. It works for me.
Small saws want small blades so they can be tensioned properly.
A sharp 1/4 " blade, properly tensioned will cut straight all day long.
A dull and flabby 1 inch blade won't cut a foot of length without bowing out.
I was involved with resawing about 4 tons of Macassar ebony. we tried a lot of blades. Thin, tight and sharp cut the most lineal feet with the least post sawing clean up. And about the cost?...... all smiles on the 1/4-3/8 " blades. We used a very old 36 inch Tannewitz at the time
A sharp 1/4 " blade, properly tensioned will cut straight all day long.
A dull and flabby 1 inch blade won't cut a foot of length without bowing out.
I was involved with resawing about 4 tons of Macassar ebony. we tried a lot of blades. Thin, tight and sharp cut the most lineal feet with the least post sawing clean up. And about the cost?...... all smiles on the 1/4-3/8 " blades. We used a very old 36 inch Tannewitz at the time
Newman109
Diamond
- Joined
- Sep 4, 2006
I think it wold be difficult to re-saw a 2X10" Brazilian Rosewood board with a 1/4" blade.
You would be rewarded to try.
But do not forget the tension!
In perspective, do the math on blade stiffness as a function of tension. Small saws just can't stand the pressure!
Newman109
Diamond
- Joined
- Sep 4, 2006
When I was in the workers compensation business, the professional lumberyards that I used to visit used re-saws with very wide blades. In a large machine, 3", 4" wide blades 20 feet long are not uncommon. Such machines have mechanical drives to push the wood through the blade.
I use 1/4" blades from time to time and they work fine for curves, arcs and circles.
Fitznoodle
Aluminum
- Joined
- Jan 30, 2012
- Location
- Michigan, North of Toledo, OH
I agree with SThomas and also get as wide a blade as your guides will handle.
cranium
Hot Rolled
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2013
- Location
- Crockers Nub, NC
I was very surprised to see my local portable sawmill guy using a 1/2" blade cutting logs into usable lumber. Who'd have thunk it?
Langanobob
Hot Rolled
- Joined
- Mar 22, 2008
- Location
- Reno, Nevada
My guess is that he's working by the hour, not by the board foot.
When I was in the workers compensation business, the professional lumberyards that I used to visit used re-saws with very wide blades. In a large machine, 3", 4" wide blades 20 feet long are not uncommon. Such machines have mechanical drives to push the wood through the blade.
I use 1/4" blades from time to time and they work fine for curves, arcs and circles.
Please understand, the advantage of the small blade is strictly a matter of tension! If your machine can properly tension a larger blade, then use that.
But there are very few "import home hobby" machines that will carry the load. Again, do the maths.
Blade tension is key.
richard newman
Titanium
- Joined
- Jul 28, 2006
- Location
- rochester, ny
Cal has it right in my experience. Also, narrower blades are often thinner too, less kerf, less waste, lower power requirement.
Newman109
Diamond
- Joined
- Sep 4, 2006
Timberwolf (r) makes recommendations for resawing hardwoods. Apparently they have not yet heard of the advantages of using 1/4" bladed on expensive hardwoods. If they read this thread, they may change their minds, though.
I looked at Google and not one source recommends a 1/4" blade for resawing hardwood.
I looked at Google and not one source recommends a 1/4" blade for resawing hardwood.
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Please go back and READ post #15.
Your chart Assumes you have the large enoguh saw to properly tension the blade.
Fabitfast
Aluminum
- Joined
- May 2, 2012
- Location
- Dallas, Texas
I use 3/4" 3 TPI blade.
Trboatworks
Diamond
- Joined
- Oct 23, 2010
- Location
- Maryland- USA
I have been running the Lenox Tri-Master blades which are carbide tipped.
No problems doing resaw work w/ .035" x 3 tpi x 1/2" on my 16" saw.
This time around I am going to try a 3/4" blade and see if it will fly on this old WT.
I am getting two years or more cutting abrasive teak plus plywoods, plastics and aluminum.
Really decent blades.
No problems doing resaw work w/ .035" x 3 tpi x 1/2" on my 16" saw.
This time around I am going to try a 3/4" blade and see if it will fly on this old WT.
I am getting two years or more cutting abrasive teak plus plywoods, plastics and aluminum.
Really decent blades.
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