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My new resaw feeder gizmo

richard newman

Titanium
Joined
Jul 28, 2006
Location
rochester, ny
I finally got my resaw power feeder up and running, thought I'd post some pix. It fed really smoothly and easily, could just keep blanks running thru one after another (butted up). SO MUCH faster, easier, and more accurate than hand feeding, wish I'd done it years ago.

Actually worked much better than I'd expected, held tolerance of +/- .003". I was sawing 4' x 3" laminations, a range of .100" - .350" from stock up to 3" thick, walnut, cherry, maple and mahogany. Ran stuff thru at 4 - 8 fpm, got a textured surface that cleaned up with a .005 pass/side on the planer or sander. Makes that operation go much faster also.

I used a 1/4 hp dc gear motor 8 rpm output. The drive roller uses 5-1/2"od x 2" wide 65 durometer urethane tires from Weinig. Had to cut one in half to make a 3" wide roller, that was the hardest part of the job - what a lousy material to turn!

5/8 od rollers in 1/4" bronze sleeve bearings for the fence. Probably didn't need as many as I used. The fence shaft is bored 1/4-20 for a fine adjuster to be added later, altho it was easy to dial in the fence using dial calipers in depth mode.

The feed roll/motor unit pivots at the end of the arms that act as out-feed tables. Feed pressure is with an 1-1/16" air cylinder, at 50-60 psi. I was worried that the roller would slam in as the work exited, but it just kind of walks down, except with really thick stock which requires releasing pressure after the cut finishes. Butting up stock eliminates the problem.

Most of the materials, motor, and controller were from the scrap yard or ebay bargains, kept the cost very reasonable (except of course for all the time!)

It was so relaxing and satisfying to use, i was disappointed to be done so soon, felt like sawing up all the wood in the shop.
 

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More pix

More pix. The guides were Lignum Vitae, which worked great but wore too easily with only 3-4 hours use. You can see that in the pix.

Next time hard steel or carbide.
 

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Richard-

That is brilliant!
I can see a trip to Rochester is becoming more imminent. :D

Much hesitation to even comment on improvements.....but for long term durability and a slight bit more slip yet, I'd face the bed with Formica. (OK, call it or buy it as phenolic :) ). But the Al is going to erode.

Bruce, the speed limit (feed limit) on a BS blade is the gullet capacity. So if the band is running at or under capacity, it won't need to spill the dust at any point before the collection chute, if the system below is designed reasonably. Of course in a close captured system such as Richards, there is clear evidence of how abrasive the material is.

smt, looking at several miles of 2-3/4" wide redwood laminae to resaw in the next week or so.
 
Hey Stephen, bring your redwood up to Rochester and we'll have a resaw party!

Please don't anyone hesitate with criticism or improvements, it never fails to amazr me what I miss, misunderstand, or plain don't know.

The aluminum has already eroded, I was thinking to just put down some UHMW tape for a while.

Bruce, there is a small problem with dust - it starts to accumulate between the swing arms and in front of the feed roll, and eventually prevents the roller from going all the way in to the stop. I just have to blow it out periodically, not sure how to solve this.

I was resawing with a Doall MetalMaster, doesn't have very large gullets, maybe that is contributing. But it cut well, and I love the .040 kerf, gives me an extra lam now and then.
 
Thanks for the compliments

omrc - I used a cogged v belt, I was concerned that the dust would gum up the chain.

rick - the pressure roller and even feed eliminate "operator error". They make a huge difference. But it's also critical that the saw be well tuned, and especially that the tension on the blade be adequate. I've found that the scales on many bandsaws are completely useless. On my Powermatic 81 I have to bottom out the spring and then crank some more to tension a 1/2" blade! You need a blade tensioning gauge to really calibrate this. On my Tannewitz 36", the gauge is pretty close.
 
The housing is split and tightened with 2 screws. Those are just tapped holes in case I make an upper blade guide or some other attachment.

I'm curious how you would approach the design John, I agree that mine is pretty complicated.
 
nice piece of work!


Does this feeder resolve some problem that a stock resaw feeder has? Or was it just a fun thing to do as well as save the money?
 








 
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