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Need help wiring Robland x310

MarkRF555

Plastic
Joined
Nov 25, 2016
Location
New Orleans, LA, USA
My friend has a robland X310 combo machine that he acquired unwired. Trying to wire it 220V single phase. Since it’s set up to be single or 3 phase, the start and run capacitors are wired in outside the motors, whereas the problem arises. He has the main switch that toggles between shaper, saw, planet etc wired and everything seems ok until we get to the capacitor situation. There is an unknown switch in the circuit that does not seem to be working but we theorize it gives momentary power to start capacitor then constant power to motor and run cap?! Anyone have any experience wiring these European beasts?! I’ll try to upload pics of the circuit board and diagram from robland manual. Thanks
 
Hope this helps. Not long after I bought my 1990 Robland X31 (2/16) two of the motors burned up because the previous owner had put a momentary switch on the front of the machine. The switch was wired to both start and run windings. I had the motors rebuilt and the shop man identified the wires for me. I ordered a new OEM starter from Saltzer in Mesa, CA. When the starter is turned on any motor will start at around 32 amps, and then in just a second will drop to 11.5 amps. It is important that any motor doesn’t operate under load at these high amps for long or they will burn up. When the switch is released any motor will run under 4 amps. I can plane 1/16 off a 5” oak board at 5 amps. I keep an amp meter permanently on the machine so I can keep a check on the amps.

The Robland X31 is intended to have a manual starter that engages the startup winding to bring the motor to full speed, and then when the starter is released the motor operates on the run winding at lower amps. In contrast, the U.S. standard is to produce motors and starters that automatically switch from startup to run mode.
I purchased a new OEM starter from Salzer Corp in Mesa, Arizona, and after waiting three weeks for the part to arrive from Germany, I was able to install it in about half an hour.

The contact information and rotary switch part number for Saltzer follows:
Salzer USA Corporation
P. O. Box 21240
Mesa, AZ 85277-1240
Phone 1-480-325-2690
T225-61352-219M1 Rotary Cam Switch
 
Good Morning everyone, new here and looking for some assistance as well. Robland X31 single phase three motor machine, I am troubleshooting a new motor run situation and believe that either capacitors have gone bad (owner says they checked at 50uF on his meter), or something has happened in the wiring. In troubleshooting, When the selector switch is placed in any of the 4 positions to run, when the start switch is turned, the contactor will pull in and the planer, saw, and spindle fwd will hummm. Leads me to believe there is something in the capacitor circuit not working properly. On the selector switch on the machine, and the old one the owner replaced, when in position 2 there should be continuity between 5 and 6. there is not. If I set the switch to position 4, there should be continuity between 5 and 12 on the switch, it too is open. I am thinking if I rewire the switch to the 3 as the common since there is no connection, those contacts may not be hurt. However, the switch in the machine is a new one according to the owner. I am trying to figure if there is a switch problem or it is all in the second leg capacitor wiring. The help I could use is if anyone has a picture of the motor wiring that is on the terminal strip in the cabinet would be some help. I tried to attach the drawing I am using but I guess I am unable yet until approved. Hope everyone has a great day. Steve

[URL=https://app.photobucket.com/u/showelljr1/p/088ebd08-cf10-4f81-974a-ad6bf897ed2e][/URL]
 
x-31 shaper wiring

I have an older x31 that has had problems with the 10 position selector switch. I have replaced it twice and fear that I have reconnected the shaper wiring incorrectly. Can't seem to get much info from local distributor (Martin Machinery). They have tried to help but they don't seem to have access to the correct schematics. I have everything working but the shaper. Any photos or direction would be appreciated.



My friend has a robland X310 combo machine that he acquired unwired. Trying to wire it 220V single phase. Since it’s set up to be single or 3 phase, the start and run capacitors are wired in outside the motors, whereas the problem arises. He has the main switch that toggles between shaper, saw, planet etc wired and everything seems ok until we get to the capacitor situation. There is an unknown switch in the circuit that does not seem to be working but we theorize it gives momentary power to start capacitor then constant power to motor and run cap?! Anyone have any experience wiring these European beasts?! I’ll try to upload pics of the circuit board and diagram from robland manual. Thanks
 
Hope this helps. Not long after I bought my 1990 Robland X31 (2/16) two of the motors burned up because the previous owner had put a momentary switch on the front of the machine. The switch was wired to both start and run windings. I had the motors rebuilt and the shop man identified the wires for me. I ordered a new OEM starter from Saltzer in Mesa, CA. When the starter is turned on any motor will start at around 32 amps, and then in just a second will drop to 11.5 amps. It is important that any motor doesn’t operate under load at these high amps for long or they will burn up. When the switch is released any motor will run under 4 amps. I can plane 1/16 off a 5” oak board at 5 amps. I keep an amp meter permanently on the machine so I can keep a check on the amps.

The Robland X31 is intended to have a manual starter that engages the startup winding to bring the motor to full speed, and then when the starter is released the motor operates on the run winding at lower amps. In contrast, the U.S. standard is to produce motors and starters that automatically switch from startup to run mode.
I purchased a new OEM starter from Salzer Corp in Mesa, Arizona, and after waiting three weeks for the part to arrive from Germany, I was able to install it in about half an hour.

The contact information and rotary switch part number for Saltzer follows:
Salzer USA Corporation
P. O. Box 21240
Mesa, AZ 85277-1240
Phone 1-480-325-2690
T225-61352-219M1 Rotary Cam Switch
Good Evening
I have a 2004 Robland xtz . Basically just the table saw and reversing shaper. From what I am reading on Practical Machinist, My machine is wired the same as the x31 machine electrically. The problem started when the 50 MF capacitor burned the top out of it. I believe at the time I just pulled the 2 leads blue and brown (for saw motor) and swung them to the same MF capacitor to complete the saw operation. I purchase a new 50 MF cap months later when I needed the shaper. I also need the shaper to reverse for a large project I have Running T&G flooring.
Months ago when I unhooked the cap I disconnected the wires from the terminal block and laid in the switch panel. I tried to hook up the new cap back up yesterday and am not sure I hooked up in the rite places.
I moved the the selected switch to the saw position and it works fine.
I moved the switch to the first shaper position (CCW) and the shaper works fine.
I moved the switch to the next shaper position and the motor just hums.
I am getting nervous now that I may have not hooked the brown and blue wires up correctly. Any Help would be greatly appreciated.
Bob
 

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Hope this helps. Not long after I bought my 1990 Robland X31 (2/16) two of the motors burned up because the previous owner had put a momentary switch on the front of the machine. The switch was wired to both start and run windings. I had the motors rebuilt and the shop man identified the wires for me. I ordered a new OEM starter from Saltzer in Mesa, CA. When the starter is turned on any motor will start at around 32 amps, and then in just a second will drop to 11.5 amps. It is important that any motor doesn’t operate under load at these high amps for long or they will burn up. When the switch is released any motor will run under 4 amps. I can plane 1/16 off a 5” oak board at 5 amps. I keep an amp meter permanently on the machine so I can keep a check on the amps.

The Robland X31 is intended to have a manual starter that engages the startup winding to bring the motor to full speed, and then when the starter is released the motor operates on the run winding at lower amps. In contrast, the U.S. standard is to produce motors and starters that automatically switch from startup to run mode.
I purchased a new OEM starter from Salzer Corp in Mesa, Arizona, and after waiting three weeks for the part to arrive from Germany, I was able to install it in about half an hour.

The contact information and rotary switch part number for Saltzer follows:
Salzer USA Corporation
P. O. Box 21240
Mesa, AZ 85277-1240
Phone 1-480-325-2690
T225-61352-219M1 Rotary Cam Switch
Hi
Just found your post. So far in a couple of days of looking has been of some help to me. Robland is a great machine but their wiring diagrams have been of no help to me.

I have a 2004 Robland xtz . Basically just the table saw and reversing shaper. From what I am reading on Practical Machinist my machine is wired the same as the x31 machine electrically. My problem started when the 50 MF capacitor burned the top out of it. I believe at the time I just pulled the 2 leads blue and brown (for saw motor) and swung them to the same MF capacitor to complete the saw operation. I purchase a new 50 MF cap months later when I needed the shaper. I also need the shaper to reverse for a large project I have Running T&G flooring.
Months ago when I unhooked the cap I disconnected the wires from the terminal block and laid in the switch panel. I tried to hook up the new cap back up yesterday and am not sure I hooked up in the rite places.
I moved the the selected switch to the saw position and it works fine.
I moved the switch to the first shaper position (CCW) and the shaper works fine.
I moved the switch to the next shaper position (CW) and the motor just hums.
I am getting nervous now that I may have not hooked the brown and blue wires up correctly.
Not sure why my shaper runs correctly in CCW and not in CW position. Maybe I have another switch bad????
Any Help would be greatly appreciated.
Bob
 
Can you disassemble the switch and clean it up.
The "hold for 1 or 2 seconds" label is similar to starting a RPC idler motor.
 
Can you disassemble the switch and clean it up.
The "hold for 1 or 2 seconds" label is similar to starting a RPC idler motor.
Hi
I will see if I can pull this switch apart and clean with contact cleaner. I am still un easy that I have the 50 mf cap on the rite terminal point. I know that the cap is being energized as I have to discharge before checking the correctness of the MF's. Unsure if it is going to the barrel switch then to the motor.
Thank You for the help. This gets me a little closer. The switch had to get hammered when the cap failed and burned the top off.
 
Looking at that schematic in post #3. C1 is being momentarily switched on as start capacitor and in parallel with C2.
Release the start switch and C2 is left connected as a run capacitor.
 
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Looking at that schematic in post #3. C1 is being momentarily switched on as start capacitor and in parallel with C2.
Release the start switch and C2 is left connected as a run capacitor. Those motors are being run as a RPC idler would run.
Goodbye to some of that horse power.
Hi
I have not been holding the start switch very long. maybe 1 second. When shaper motor hums I hit the stop switch to stop humming. Afraid to burn up motor. Now I am wondering if I have the capacitor in the wrong terminal connector on the multi connector bar. I will try to get a better photo of terminal points. I'm going to try to clean the barrel switch if i can also. Thanks for the help with this.
 
Hi
I have not been holding the start switch very long. maybe 1 second. When shaper motor hums I hit the stop switch to stop humming. Afraid to burn up motor. Now I am wondering if I have the capacitor in the wrong terminal connector on the multi connector bar. I will try to get a better photo of terminal points. I'm going to try to clean the barrel switch if i can also. Thanks for the help with this.
Use a ohm meter or a simple battery, wire, and light bulb.
Switch ON, then C1 and C2 are in parallel and total capacitance is 80 uF.
Switch OFF, C1 is disconnected and only C2 is in circuit.
Very easy stuff to do.

Question: What are the horsepower ratings of your three motors? I assume that only one motor is running at a time.
 
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Use a ohm meter or a simple battery, wire, and light bulb.
Switch ON, then C1 and C2 are in parallel and total capacitance is 80 uF.
Switch OFF, C1 is disconnected and only C2 is in circuit.
Very easy stuff to do.

Question: What are the horsepower ratings of your three motors? I assume that only one motor is running at a time.
I have only 2 motors
One for the saw and one for the shaper(spindle on schematic)
The saw works perfectly, Initially months back when my cap failed I believed it to be for the saw. I pulled the 50mf cap from the saw. The cap had the top burned out and melted plastic casing. I was happy it didn't start a fire under my saw. I think I changed the connectors from the burned up cap and placed them on the remaining good cap. I have been running this way for 6 months.

I went to use my shaper the other day and remembered I had pulled one cap out and decided to put the new 50mf cap in. I had to pull the old cap wiring leads from under the the saw compartment. I did not want them getting up in the saw blade. I pulled them from their terminal points and thought I would for sure remember. Wrong! I forgot where they terminated on the connector block. I gave it a shot and guessed where i had thought they were hooked up.

Now my saw still runs.
My shaper runs ccw.
When I put the shaper in the reversing position it hums.
Not understanding why the 2hp motor runs cow and not cw.
This seems to lead me back to the barrel switch . Another kind person on PM suggested I clean the barrel switch contacts. I am going to see if I can do that now.
There are empty connect points on the switch because I believe they use this switch for 2 and 3 motor set ups.
Thanks again for the help. I can not find anyone in our area that wants to trouble shoot European electrical equipment.
Thanks again for your time.
I am needing the cw rotation for a job coming up soon.
Bob, Geneva Florida
 
Your first post about the switch. It is switching in an extra capacitor in parallel with a second one. Does this just to jolt whatever motor you are switched too.
When you are just connecting the open wires from the blown capacitor to the second capacitor, I think that doesn't do anything. Your motors still start but if
you had the first capacitor working you would probably hear a difference.

The CW rotation thing I understand now. I was also wrong about this machine setup running internal 3 phase motors as a static convertor would.
If you look at the schematic in post 3. The part K1 pin 5 connected to pin 4. If you remove the pin4 connection and swap over to pin 2 your motor
would reverse direction. Don't try it until somebody else confirms this. I probably shouldn't ask why you want to run the shaper CW unless you are
feeding wood from the opposite direction.

I don't see a reverse switch in your schematic in post #5.
 
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Good Evening
I now understand what is going on in your schematic.
The inked drawing is made for single phase operation. The stuff in pencil is modifications for three phase operation.
In either case you can change the start capacitor connection points and alter the direction of rotation.
Given T1,T2,T3 and cap is on T1 - T3. Reverse would be cap on T2 - T3. (T1, T2 is utility)
 








 
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