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Oliver 88-DU experiences?

specfab

Titanium
Joined
May 28, 2005
Location
AZ
I may have an opportunity to pick up an Oliver 88-DU table saw next week at auction, and just wondered if anyone here owns one, and may have some guidance regarding things to look at before diving in. In general, I have always liked Oliver machines; the table saws are conceptually comparable (in my mind) to Tannewitz machines. I have looked on VintageMachinery.org for any publication info they might have, didn't find too much.

I think I have these facts:
16" blade capacity
Sliding table (seen in auction photo)
Voltage unknown, assume either 220 single or 3-phase.
Assume also at least 5HP direct drive, but don't really know.

If you have any comments or directives, let me know. Thanks --
 
I own an Oliver 232 and a Tannewitz table saw. That 88 you're looking at should be a very nice saw. Make sure the rip fence and miter gauge are with the saw. There should also be a quandrant that attaches to the rolling table. I believe that is a direct drive saw so keep in mind it takes a very large blade to get much showing above the table. Belt drive saws like the unisaw can get the arbor much closer to the bottom of the table because the motor doesn't run up against the bottom of the table.


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Thanks for the inputs. I see the miter and fence on the saw in photos, but no obvious presence of the angle quadrant for sliding table. Might be there, at least there is a whole 2-hour onsite inspection window the day of the auction...

In my perusal of the reprints of Oliver literature on VintageMachinery, and having downloaded the circa 1959 price list and some of the other 88-D(x) table saw info, it appears that 88DU-specific literature is a little skimpy, so I guess I'll see what faces me when I get there. From all I read, definitely direct drive, and up to 18" blade cap. I really like the rip fence design on these (again, similar to Tannewitz), where you have the assembly adjustable by rack/pinion and mounted to table with pins in holes.

2400 lbs is indeed a "no-sheet-metal" design approach. One of my favorites (until you have to move it...)
 
Good luck hope you get the saw. The brochure photo John posted does not show the type of fence you are describing so check that carefully. If it has the type you want that pins to the table make sure the holes in the fence line up with the holes in the table so you know they go together.


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Not wanting to sound TOO greedy, but I have TWO 88 table saws. Indeed it DOES have an 18 inch blade, which because of the diameter, has a wider kerf than the 10 inch table saws, I'd been using. Big, powerful direct drive motor. Dust collector is absolutely essential. The sliding table is a nice feature, but not one I use very much.
I have a Biesemeyer fence on mine, which frankly I have just gotten accustomed to since using one on my Delta Unisaw for thirty years.

I bought the second saw because the first one had NONE of the accessories that should be with the saw. Since I manufacture machine tools, I was thinking of making patterns and reproducing these hard to find parts, but my burning desire to make machines and parts is waning. The mitre gage for these is big and heavy, a must have.
LOOK really hard for the inserts that go in the table slots. The left one has the degree marks for the sliding table engraved in it. If the company has been around for a LONG time, the missing bits and pieces can be laying on a shelf, or have been long lost. Strips of steel that just fit the slots in the table. Also there COULD be a cast bar that ties TWO miter gages together, giving you a simple method to cross cut long boards. Another part if you don't know what it looks like, you won't KNOW what it is. The sliding table uses it's OWN gage for setting angles Look carefully at the advertising brochures or contact me with a cell phone number, and I'd be happy to take pictures and send as a message.

The stock fence MAY have been great in its day, but for cutting sheet goods, the Biesemeyer is super quick and precise. I don't want to fiddle with knobs when I cut plywood, I want instant gratification and instant accurate location. I like the saw, but for the novice it's pretty intimidating. Big blade, a motor you're NOT going to stall when you make the wrong move. NO pinching the blade and stalling this saw, it's gonna throw the work right back. Makes a delta unisaw seem like the toy it really is. I have my TWO saws side by side with a cross cut blade on the left saw and a rip blade on the right. No extension table on the left saw, so the second 88 is just far enough away from the left saw to allow me to move the table angle. Gives me about six or seven feet of cast iron table to cut sheet goods with! I DON'T do mitres very often with the Oliver as it's a LOT of heavy cranking. I have another saw in my shop already set up for 45 degree angles, and to be honest ANOTHER saw with a dado blade set. I think doing dados with the Oliver 88 would be a pain in the butt. The sliding table would have to be moved to the left to make up for the blade stack width, and you'd have a gap in front and behind the blade. Unlike normal saws with throat plates, the Oliver with the sliding table doesn't use them.
 
Did Oliver have a saw with two direct-drive motors on a rotating turret arrangement? I have this vague recollection.


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Yes Oliver did make a saw with two spindles mounted on a "turret". Pretty incredible saw. I bought one of those too, that our government let rust for the requisite
several years before selling it. An incredible saw frankly with sliding table and the two heads. Can't imagine what it would cost today to produce. The model is a 260.

The idea of having a rip blade and cross cut blade ready to use just by rotating around the turret is pretty nice. BUT it is a lot of handle turning, a lot of heavy cast pieces that with a bit of saw dust and any rust, just don't turn that well. If space is a premium, probably OKAY.
 
Just wanted to close the loop from my end -- I opted not to get into the bidding frenzy for the 88DU mentioned in my OP. I weighed all the factors, such as no room in MY shop, needing to move it to my workplace, needing a trailer and having to rig it out myself on a weekday (or having to hire a rigger, or finding a rental truck with sufficient liftgate capacity)) and uncertainty about how long it would take to get it out of its location, and reluctantly let it go... The sale price was $810, which I would have easily paid. And it did indeed have the sliding table angle quadrant, as well as at least one table slot cover, and the previously-mentioned accessories. C'est la vie.
 
oliver made a great saw but their sliding table design was prone to lateral play when worn. The 260 was also great if in good condition. If the arbors were swapped when tilted damage could be caused that is very difficult to fix so you want to see and work them before buying. The 88 did come with various crosscut extensions. I have Whitney, Wadkin, and Robinson sliding saws but for panel work, a newer euro saw with a long table is a better choice. For furniture work, the old iron sliders had no equal. Dave
 








 
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