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Precision tool case wood types

MCritchley

Stainless
Joined
Mar 22, 2007
Location
Brooklyn WI
I have a nice piece of Sapele that i was considering making a few tool cases out of. The cases will be for precision ground blocks and measuring equipment.

Perhaps it was here i read that certain woods if used in a case would promote rusting. I do plan to isolate the ground tool from the wood with felt.

Is Sapele safe to use in a tool case? Are there any other woods to stay away from?
 
Only one I ever made was curly Koa... back when it was cheap..
Houses a Mit indicator, stand, and arms. no rust there, I used it for aligning shafts on boats.
 
I have an Interapid indicator that’s been in a little mahogany case for a couple decades with no issues. I made it from two small pieces of scrap deck boards, routed out like Starrett used to do. A couple short pieces of 1/8” drill rod align and keep it together


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Thanks for all of the quick responses!

I do like to use Mahogany for a lot of projects. It is tough to justify for a tool case. The piece of Sapele i found is clear and has a nice straight grain with no run off. I didn't realize Starrett used Sapele.
 
Waxed wood protects tools as it doesnt hold moisture against the tool. The felt can hold moisture so if you are in a humid area you may want to just go without the felt.

Charles
 
I try not to have direct contact between wood and the tools. Instead I make a foam insert.

I’ve been using various types of cypress and mahogany for the cases. I suspect mitutoyo ‘made in Brazil’ cases are Spanish cedar (iirc this is a type of mahogany).
 
I might use a sticky back foam in place of the felt. Would the foam hold moisture as well?
I wonder if there is a felt or foam that holds oil or that wouldn't hold moisture against a precision part.
Perhaps a permawick type of material.
 
I use material that is commonly sold for use with tools. So far, so good. One of them is Kaizen foam.
 
I might use a sticky back foam in place of the felt. Would the foam hold moisture as well?
I wonder if there is a felt or foam that holds oil or that wouldn't hold moisture against a precision part.
Perhaps a permawick type of material.

I use material that is commonly sold for use with tools. So far, so good. One of them is Kaizen foam.

We tested foams and molded goods for hearing aid use for years, temp cycled, "artificial sweat".

End of the day, making mics and reproducers in bitch-to-work-with stainless housings was all there was to it. They ALL seem to absorb something or other and/or contribute their own degradation chemicals, so contact corrosion is simply unpredictable.

Old Skewl felt blocks, "velvet", or moleskin textile at least "breath" even their own adhesive's away.

Hard felt "points", bare wood elsewhere is easiest to do, easiest to renew, and easiest for gripping to git stuff in and out as well. Cheap, too. JFDI.
 
So it’s looks like no lining is the right thing to do, good discussion.

I took a look at a Herman Schmidt case....no lining. I have full confidence in ol Herman’s decision not to have padding in a case.

How about some photos of some shop built cases?
 
Here’s a goofy Walnut scrap for an 18” B&S square. Pretty sure I threw a little oil on it. No rust to speak of. I’ve built 90% of all my tool storage out of a zillion kinds of left over wood. I don’t recall any real issues with any of them. FWIW.
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I used the original liners from the plastic case, the previous owner painted the plastic case and it looked horrendous.

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I put some stainless clasps on it also. Not sure why I felt the need to write Mitutoyo on it, that was regrettable.

Attached another case I made for an indicator.

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So it’s looks like no lining is the right thing to do, good discussion.

I took a look at a Herman Schmidt case....no lining. I have full confidence in ol Herman’s decision not to have padding in a case.

How about some photos of some shop built cases?

We have always used mahogany without any lining, just direct on the wood. Tried cherry and birch in the past on a very limited basis wtihout much success.

Pete Schmidt
 
Tried cherry and birch in the past on a very limited basis wtihout much success.

Is this because the wood affects the metal, or because it is less stable than Mahogany?

Neither sounds like ideal run of the mill wood for flat board type cases. Unless the cherry was spec'd as all QS.
I'd think QS walnut would be good.
Even run of the mill (true)mahogany seems less stable these days than it used to be.

smt
 








 
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