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wax build up

porthos

Aluminum
Joined
Sep 12, 2013
Location
western pennsylvania
i've heard this and read it (mostly hearsay) you can build up succesive coats of wax (both on wood and cars). i would think that the following coat would rub off the previous coat leaving only that last coat for protection. any SOLID evidence to "more is better"??
 
sorry rons, but that is not good enough to answer the question. all waxes have a carrier (solvent) to thin the wax; therefor i think that the next coat would rub off or disolve the previous coat.
 
Sorry back, Try out your theory with Johnsons Paste Wax for floors.

Wipe one spot very lightly. Then again and again.
Rub another with zeal. Repeat again and again. Or rub with less zeal but a longer time.

Then compare. The wipe always builds up thick and sloppy. Been coating metal and machines with the "wipe" method for years.
 
i've heard this and read it (mostly hearsay) you can build up succesive coats of wax (both on wood and cars). i would think that the following coat would rub off the previous coat leaving only that last coat for protection. any SOLID evidence to "more is better"??

Anyone who ever used the old Classic Paste Wax knows that you absolutely can build up layers of hard wax. The stuff was a bitch to use but 5 or 6 coats made the paint look a foot thick. On two occasions the former owners of motorcycles I bought used thought I had them repainted by a custom paint shop. "Nope, just lots of wax".

My experience with "cream" waxes is that after 2 or at best 3 coats you are just wasting effort.

PS: The old paste wax could actually hide mild orange peel. Can't do that without some thickness.
 
you can build up succesive coats of wax (both on wood and cars).

The kind of build up you want that looks good is with a spray finish. Spray a layer and touch up any spots that don't look good by a little rubbing. Spray again and repeat process.
You gave me an idea about how to apply my mixture of beeswax and turpentine. It is pretty thick now in the jar. Thin it out and just spray.
Would using something like lacquer thinner or acetone hurt a car's clear top coat on the very first application?

There should be spray wax sold at the auto parts store for the car buffs.

Post #1 uses the word "rub" so one thinks your application method is not spraying.
 
Don't know what you are trying to remove from car finish. Several years ago(9)my wife drove her new blue Forester over a freshly painted yellow line - yellow spots on lower part of lower left side, front to back. I was afraid to use solvent on that clearcote. Called the body shop at the dealer and was told to use WD40. "This happens often, bring it in or get some WD40, it won't hurt the finish". A little tedious, but worked fine and I got dinner that night.
 
Hey Stephen, good to hear from you!

That video is great, I've seen people use wax finishes, but never with that sort of tool. I remember Hank Gilpin using a wax finish on the piece he did for the 1989 New American Furniture show at the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston. I think he said he applied it with a stiff bristle brush. Pretty sure Krenov also used wax finishes, he introduced us to Renaissance Micro-Crystaline wax when he taught at RIT.

Doesn't seem like a good choice for banjos, but maybe for some furniture I've been wanting to build for home, if I ever find the time. The big question here is whether it would attract our dog to chew on it, vs linseed oil. Anyone have any thoughts?
 
School custodians apply floor wax at least once or twice a year. More often in the gym. Sometimes they have to use wax stripper before applying more wax. The house that I grew up in built 1948 had naked oak floors with wax. no hard finishes. Mom waxed them once or twice a year and they held up well.
Bil lD
 








 
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