chip out? yeah, sure, it's caused by grain angle- problem is, grain angle changes inch by inch, mm x mm if it is fiddleback- so essentially, this is total truth, but worthless in application.
You are trying to keep the knife from hooking out the chunks of wood- so a steeper knife angle -10, 12 degrees, and a deeper depth of cut will help. The chipout is on the surface, not buried in the stock. Just skimming the wood will ensure the chips are right at the finished surface- deeper the cut, the more the wood acts as it's own chip-breaker- the thicker section of waste supports the chip at the finished surface.
I have had good luck with the Byrd head. But suspect a good Tersa or Terminous head would also work really well. One of them, or maybe both, are available with HSS and carbide, with different knife angles.
Snipe- use enough feed roll pressure, make sure the table is locked solid (I put lever handle lock screws in mine, one on each gib) ,
Use an outfeed support to keep the board from levering the trailing end up into the cutterhead, and keep the pressure bar right at the limit of friction. (One of the unsung HUGE benefits of insert knives of whatever style, is the pressure bar and feed rolls can stay put with no readjusting required when changing knives.
holding up the board at each end when feeding- works well, but it is possible to lift to much- the board can be a long lever.
When planing thin stock, I use a table board milled in a concave profile, and depend on the feed rolls to push the stock flat under the cutterhead. Essentially exactly the same thing as holding the end of the board up, but the concave table does it for me. This is not gonna work on anything much more than 1/4" or 3/8" thick, and not very wide. Typically I use it on groups of 3/8" x 3/8" slats.