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Help with pin router pin alingment

koolaide

Plastic
Joined
Apr 21, 2016
Hi All,

I'm new to the fourm, and have read that you folks have experience with pin routers, and I am hoping you can help me.

I have aquired an Asian pin router, sold by Jet. I am having issues aligning the pin with the bit. The cut is out by about .009-.014. I checked the pin and bit and they are with in aprox.001 in diameter.

No bearing noise I can detect...

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Jim
 

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First step is to verify that the head (spindle travel) is parallel to the axis of rotation, and then square to the table surface. Use a granite knee or a precision square and indicate to it with a DTI to within at least a couple .001's in the full travel. If the table is not dead flat, you may have to fudge a bit, split the difference from each side. Parallel travel should be near perfect.

I do not know if that machine has table rise & fall, or quill feed for up-down? Either way, make sure the travel is parallel to the axis of rotation & then square to the table.
These are 2 separate conditions.

To locate the pin, accurately make an arbor between centers such that one end fits the largest good collet in the spindle, and the other is a smooth snug fit in the pin socket or bearings if yours has bearings. Clean the spindle taper scupulously, insert the collet and arbor, and tighten it.

Then loosen the pin holder, carefully actuate the vertical travel (table up or quill down) and by moving the pin holder around on the loose bolts, guide the end of the arbor into the pin socket far enough that it does not wiggle. Hold in this position, and tighten bolts.

You provide no info oh how the pin holder attaches. It may be necessary to shim one or more of the bolt pads to make it perpendicular and parallel when the bolts are tightened.
Or possibly even file them.

Hopefully the adjustment provisions are easy and well made so they stay "permanently" fixed once set. Regardless, there are no short cuts.

I guess it goes without saying, the frame members should be tight and any/all gibs snugged to actual operating condition (clearance) and lubed correctly before starting the above.

pin router centers2.jpg

pin router centers.jpg

smt
 
Stephen,

Thanks for your reply.

The machine has a pneumatic quill, and handwheel that moves the machine head. The table is stationary, with only a front to back tilt. The pin holder is bolted to a pad, with a worm gear for height adjustement.

After reading your post, I found (with quill fully extended) the table tilt was out about .1-2 thou... I squared same. after all done it is .006- .008 out, with cutting occuring on all sides of the pin to varying amounts.

Is this within an acceptable tolerance? Personaly, I am very anal with this sort of thing and try for prefection:).

Mr. Thomas, thanks so much for your post and response.

Jim
 
Well did you then center the pin holder to a pin held in a collet in the spindle?

I think mine is closer than .006, but maybe not perfect. Have not checked in a few years. I check when doing a job where it could be a factor.

I guess I am assuming your pin holder can be adjusted back, forth, and sideways? Make sure it is not tilted, either.

How compulsive to get depends on the work. Thin work, does not matter much if the table tilts a little (good you fixed it though) but on taller work, it begins to get obvious.

Pin not "perfectly" centered does not matter if your pattern is of a type where you mostly ride one side of the pin. It is even possible to ride the high side of the pin for roughing, then make a pass on the low side to finish. Personally, I'd rather have them centered, but people make use of all sorts of options to suit their own methods of work.

If you are making inlays and pockets, or other types of things that fit each other, dead centered is more predictable. For predictability, I'd rather change the pin, or the bit, for rough and finish passes if required.

smt
 
I am looking for a collet set and pins for this very machine. If anyone has an extra set or a machine not repairable.
 








 
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