What's new
What's new

Old Boice-Crane scroll saw

Joined
Aug 10, 2007
Location
West Coast
I just picked up an old antique scroll saw.

I was amazed at the metal the seller had cut with the saw in the past, even 1/4" thick stainless which he used on some bowie knifes he made out of leaf springs by grinding material away.

His wife was cutting brass, copper, and even sheets of gold <yikes> for jewelery and inlay work she does.

In the catalog over on owwm.com shows all types of metals and other materials, as the saw will take all blades from the size of a jewelers blade to a hack saw blade.

I have cut some brass on my band saw, but it is too fast for most metal. This little scroll saw looks to be just the ticket for that, until I can find an old metal bandsaw for that purpose.
 
Here's some pics attached, in case anyone cares to see what the machine looks like, who doesn't know.
 

Attachments

  • scroll-saw-boice-crane-01.jpg
    scroll-saw-boice-crane-01.jpg
    11.1 KB · Views: 4,220
  • scroll-saw-boice-crane-02.jpg
    scroll-saw-boice-crane-02.jpg
    8.4 KB · Views: 1,417
  • scroll-saw-boice-crane-03.jpg
    scroll-saw-boice-crane-03.jpg
    8.6 KB · Views: 1,309
  • scroll-saw-boice-crane-04.jpg
    scroll-saw-boice-crane-04.jpg
    9.2 KB · Views: 2,770
Nice machine Alan I have an old scroll saw kind of like it but not as in good of shape as yours and no stand.

Some day Ill get it out and see what can be done with it that is if I get done with ten thousand other things first.

By the way I think thats a neat little lathe you have on the other thread that got locked. It looks like it would be fun to make small stuff on in the garage on a rainy day.

James
 
Nice machine, around when was it made? I have a flat belt Boice-Crane wood lathe that I really like, built it the 20's. Jim
 
Nice machine Alan I have an old scroll saw kind of like it but not as in good of shape as yours and no stand.
I was thrilled to find it, still trying to find space for it...:rolleyes:
By the way I think thats a neat little lathe you have on the other thread that got locked. It looks like it would be fun to make small stuff on in the garage on a rainy day.
It is what it is, but it is not a bad piece of old antique machinery, IMO. I find it no less a tool than I do a pair of old micrometers, for instance, but I can understand John's view, it's not without other similar opinions of what is a tool, toy, machine, gizmo, etc...I think it will work some brass ok, at least for me to do a prototype of what I need. I can figure out getting a better threading lathe later. That was made in the early 40s, that certainly seems antique...
and that little lathe plays in important/interesting piece in history, Sears brought it to market as it was less costly than the Atlas machines. Still if you look at the quality, it is old school iron to my eyes.

Jim,

I think it was built in the 40s. There's a catalog at owwm.com which shows it as possibly the 2208. It's a great saw, and it's ability to cut metal makes it just a great dual purpose scroll saw. I'm on the fence if I should paint it or not, one side I want to paint it black with gold lettering like some of my other machines, but the other side is cautious as it has decals on it, which are in so-so shape, but I don't think they will come off...I could try to mask around them, but that often comes out looking like a kid did it. There is decals that can be made, and maybe making new ones is a better idea. I think it would look great with black paint and gold lettering/detail, but that is why I have other machines like that already...:D
 
Cutting metal on a scroll saw? Interesting! As I understand these saws, the drive uses a "pitman" like an ancient up-and-down sawmill. That means the velocity of the blade is not uniform throughout the stroke. (Fast in the center of the stroke and slow at the ends) A graph of the blade's velocity would be sinusoidal, like the motion if a piston on a crankshaft rotating at a constant RPM.

What kind of scrollsaw blades are used to cut metal, and where are they purchased?

How do you figure the correct number of strokes-per-minute to get a "correct" feet-per-minute? Doesn't it depend on the "throw" of the pitman arm under the table? (Surely it does - I just can't figure out a formula at 10PM on a Sunday.)

This is more than just academic interest, as I have a Craftsman scroll saw very much like the one in the photo, bought at a tag sale, sans motor, for $15.

John Ruth
 
Cutting metal on a scroll saw? Interesting! As I understand these saws, the drive uses a "pitman" like an ancient up-and-down sawmill. That means the velocity of the blade is not uniform throughout the stroke. (Fast in the center of the stroke and slow at the ends) A graph of the blade's velocity would be sinusoidal, like the motion if a piston on a crankshaft rotating at a constant RPM.
John,

In the Boice-Crane catalog at owwm.com, it states that you can use all types of different blades. This saw will take blades from the size of a jeweler's blade, very very thin, to a hacksaw blade, and it says you can even mount files in it and use it as a filer. See the bottom of page 15 where it states you can cut iron, brass, copper, pewter in sheet or tubing, as well as other materials such as bone, bakelite, ivory, aluminum, die castings, as well as other materials using fret or hacksaw blades. Also notice the blade chuck next to it, it accepts any flat blade, so you can just cut a section off a blade and use it.

The seller gave me a bunch of blades, and an extra hold down he made, which is an improvement on the original which he also gave me.
What kind of scrollsaw blades are used to cut metal, and where are they purchased?
You can buy jewelers blades at Ace hardware, and OSH or HD I believe. Sold in packs of a dozen or so.

The seller showed me and gave me some narrow bandsaw blades, he told me he would just buy a band saw blade for cutting metal with fine teeth and just cut it in 9" sections. This saw holds flat ends, no pins needed, clamp it in. Since you can use 5" - 9" blades, he explained to me how to get optimal use of the blades. Only about 1 1/2" is used for the cutting stroke. Start out with 9", break an inch off and put it back in the saw. Adjust the holddown, tension it and you've got a new cutting edge. You can do that 4 times, getting essentially 5 blades out of 1.
How do you figure the correct number of strokes-per-minute to get a "correct" feet-per-minute?
Currently it has a 1725 rpm motor on it, it's got an old Dayton 1/4 HP I believe. He said if one wanted to slow it down more, you would need to change the pulleys. But he said with that motor it will cut all types of materials just fine, not to worry...he did cut bone handles for knives he made, 1/4" stainless for the blade guards to cut out the hold for it to fit over the blade, leather, copper, gold, tin, and various other stuff. If you look in the catalog linked to above, they show some files and sanding stuff being used on it, and you can use jig saw files as well which are available in a variety of sizes.
This is more than just academic interest, as I have a Craftsman scroll saw very much like the one in the photo, bought at a tag sale, sans motor, for $15.
I'm not sure if that will work on a Craftsman or not, those are intended for use with wood, as I recall. This saw has a ball bearing operated crankshaft, and as such might have more of an up/down movement than what you describe.

This is a substantially heavier machine than a Craftsman scroll saw, although those are pretty nice, I think Delta might have made those for Sears, I'm not sure.

HTH,
 








 
Back
Top