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Recommendations on CNC screw machine

spooky

Aluminum
Joined
Nov 4, 2010
Location
West Virginia, USA
Hey All,

I am trying to figure out if there may be a cnc screw machine out there that would suit my needs. I have a small company making antique gun parts. I am considering starting to make my own screws. I have been looking at different types of manual machines, but I keep coming back to cnc in my head, as I used to run big VMC's and it is what I know the best.

My shop is small and I only have single phase power, so huge 480 volt equipment is out. I'd like to buy used in the sub 10K $'s range. Am I dreaming here? Ideally I'd like to find a small footprint, 220 V machine with a bar feeder. The physical size of the small to medium sized B&S, Hardinge or Traub manual machines would be ideal.

I would be making mostly 8-32, 6-40, 10-32 and some 1/4-20, 12-24 screws. I think 3/4(ish) bar capacity would do, and have the capacity to slot the heads in the machine too.

If any of you screw gurus out there have any thoughts I'd sure appreciate it.

Thanks much!

CE

screws1.jpg
 
Well, your major (reputable?) brands are - in alph order:

A) Citizen
B) Index (Traub)
C) Star
D) Tornos

The only older model that I am familiar with is likely not able to be found on this continent outside of my shop anymore, so someone else will hafta come up with that.


-------------------------

Think Snow Eh!
Ox
 
I would be looking at a omniturn I have a older slide machine with a fagor control and there is no support for the them. Omni has been around for years and is US made.
 
Hi Spooky:
I make screws for a customer on a simple gang chucker with C axis; here's my experience.

The cycle time of single point threading is uncompetitively slow if, and only if, you intend to sell at comparable prices to the price you'd pay to buy standard screws in a box.
Since you're not and since you can ask a premium for your screws because they're presumably unavailable anywhere else, there's no reason you can't make a nice profit on these.

However, you must understand your costs and your desired profits to make a good judgement about price, and that depends on whether you intend to stock common screws in buckets for eventual sale or do custom orders only.
(It depends on other things too, but this is a good starting point).

This brings me to technical considerations.
I make the same four screws over and over in batches of 25 at a time, so my method reflects that pattern and I have refined it so it's a nice little sideline for me.

My tooling is all set up so I have one tooling block to mount on the slide and one offset to touch off in order to have everything ready to run.
Since my driver slots are sinker EDM cut (they're a shape that cannot be milled) I have fixtures to mount 25 screws into and a standard gang electrode to burn 25 at a time.

I use a bar puller (way cheaper than a bar feeder) and a spindle liner so I can run blank screws autonomously and just go and collect my stuff when the machine stops after a run; I qualify the first, tenth and last screw of each batch and the sub program I wrote is restricted so I can only make a modest number of screws before the machine stops and I check one before I push the big green button again.
That way I will only ever lose a few screws if I break a threading tip or have some other misadventure...cheapo QC, but it works for this job.

I can turn a single 4:40 x 0.250" long buttonhead screw blank in under a minute in 303 stainless steel, so they are sub-$2.00 blanks.
I know I don't sell enough in a year to justify a Swiss or even a run on someone else's Swiss; my customer takes a few hundred of each off my hands every year, so even if I cut the price of the blanks in half by outsourcing them I'd save a hundred bucks or so...not worth the hassle to have someone else run the blanks for me at any price.
Slotting them is the expensive step and that is where the profit is.

Your case is totally different.
You can run the screws backward so you can slot or broach right on the turning center but still take them off the bar in one operation.
So you'll need a C axis machine and you'll need a single live tool if they're going to be sawn slots
If you can cut the slots with a little shaper blade you still need the C axis but not the live tool.

So your machine needs are modest; no subspindle, no Swiss, no guide bushings, no centerless ground bars; but ONLY if your screws are mostly shorties that can effectively be run on a simple 2 axis machine.

I'm using a SNK Prodigy 5C gang chucker I paid fifteen grand for and it's a nice little machine for the work.
There are a gazillion 5C gang chuckers out there; DD Machine recommended an Omniturn and they're a perfectly reasonable choice but there are lots of others too.

As an aside, when it's time to go machine shopping, I'd be inclined to stay away from Dynamic CNC; they're enjoying a particularly bad reputation right now for non-delivery of machines they've taken payment for.
Whether justified or not, it's just an uncertainty you don't need to embrace when there are so many other places you can get a machine; these things are common as dirt.
There's a recent tale here on PM that's a real tale of woe, and the complainant sounds like he's telling the truth, so do a search, read the story and make a judgement for yourself

So expect a tab comparable to what I spent in order to get the ability to make these; expect to be able to make a screw profitably for somewhere under $3.00 for a short simple slotted screw for just the turning and slotting, and decide if it's worth it to get in the game.

You'll need to sell a lot of screws or sell them at quite a high price per screw to put a happy smile on your face, but if you can satisfy yourself it's worthwhile, there's no technical reason you can't make it happen and you don't need exotic machines to do it.
If you intend to make customs expect to spend a half a day to program, set up, and first article a part...be sure to price that reality into your custom screws.
Batches, repeat orders and stock items are different.

Cheers

Marcus
Implant Mechanix • Design & Innovation > HOME
Vancouver Wire EDM -- Wire EDM Machining
 
Marcus,

Thank you for the thoughtful response. You've given me a ton of things to consider!

The SNK you are using, is it similar to this model? Used Prodigy Snk CNC Tool Lathe | HGR Industrial Surplus

Is DD Machine a used tool dealer?

I don't know the difference between a bar feeder and a bar puller. At my old shop all the machines had feeders on them. do pullers use weights or something to pull the bar into battery?

Thank you again!

CE
 
Pullers mount were the tools do and physically grip the bar and pull it out, bar feeders feed bar from the back of the spindle, simple as that. bar pulling need be nothing more than spring grip fingers, a tool that engages a turned slot etc, theres a lot of options - ways to do it some seriously cheap too.

The screws in your pic should be pretty easy to turn and to single point thread, i don't make any screws on a regular basis, but i make a lot of sub 1/2" bolts with odd heads and often several diameters of thread in length, think 2" of 1/4 unf thread etc , hence i generally have to do them as 2 operations, but then i get to cut the threads with a die head which is seriously fast and has none of the length to dia or chatter issues you encounter single pointing, thread rolling may be another option worth looking into at your sizes too, very fast very cheap.
 
Hi again spooky:
That Prodigy in the link you posted is virtually identical to mine, and they are nice machines except for the stripped down Fanuc control (I have a personal dislike for Fanuc controls so take what I say about them with a grain of salt: there are lots who love them!)

DD Machine is one of the posters on your thread; he posted #2 and #5 (he recommended the Omniturn which is very similar to the Prodigy).

As adama described, a bar puller grabs the end of the bar that's still sticking out of the collet after part cutoff, and pulls it out of the collet after the collet is unclamped with an M code.
A good bar feeder is quite expensive compared to a puller which you can build yourself for almost nothing if you want to save money or don't like what you can buy.
I built very compact ones for my own needs; they will fit into a 3/4" diameter so I can run them even with lots of other tools on my X axis slide, and they will grip a bar that's sticking out of the collet less than 0.075".
That is so I don't need to stick the bar out too far; when you've got skinny stock as you will have, sticking out the bar too far makes it hard to turn without chatter.

Cheers

Marcus
Implant Mechanix • Design & Innovation > HOME
Vancouver Wire EDM -- Wire EDM Machining
 
If you're using a bar puller, you better make sure your bars are all the same length.
??? A bar puller doesn't care how long the bar is, any more than a bar feeder does. It just grabs the little piece of bar sticking out of the spindle after the previous part cutoff and pulls more bar out through the spindle.

If you mean, "make sure the bar puller feeds a reliable distance (e.g., doesn't slip on the bar)," then, yeah, sure. True statement for all means of bar feed, push, pull, telekinetic, ... Good use for a stock stop, including the age-old trick of pulling more bar than needed, then pushing it back to the correct length with a Z-axis move and a stock stop.

If you mean, "make sure the bars are all the same diameter," then, yeah, sure, but bar pullers are usually very lenient about bar diameter. Most of them are dumb spring grippers with lots of travel. Not at all fussy the way, for instance, Swiss guide bushings are.
 
??? A bar puller doesn't care how long the bar is, any more than a bar feeder does. It just grabs the little piece of bar sticking out of the spindle after the previous part cutoff and pulls more bar out through the spindle.

If you mean, "make sure the bar puller feeds a reliable distance (e.g., doesn't slip on the bar)," then, yeah, sure. True statement for all means of bar feed, push, pull, telekinetic, ... Good use for a stock stop, including the age-old trick of pulling more bar than needed, then pushing it back to the correct length with a Z-axis move and a stock stop.

If you mean, "make sure the bars are all the same diameter," then, yeah, sure, but bar pullers are usually very lenient about bar diameter. Most of them are dumb spring grippers with lots of travel. Not at all fussy the way, for instance, Swiss guide bushings are.

I believe what he means is if you let the bar puller pull out the end of the stock and leave it run a full cycle. In which case, the puller will still have the end of stock in the grippers and feed into the collet for the next pull.
 
??? A bar puller doesn't care how long the bar is, any more than a bar feeder does. It just grabs the little piece of bar sticking out of the spindle after the previous part cutoff and pulls more bar out through the spindle.

The puller does not care how long the bar is, but the operation may. I've seen instances where pulling a random length bar left too short a piece in the collet or chuck and then the machining operation caused the part to come out and damage tooling. This is a great application for a macro where one enters the bar length and the macro figures out how many parts to make and still leave sufficient chucking stock.
 
OK, now I understand the issue. Thank you, both. Since I only do screw-machine parts on my manual turret machine, recognizing the end of a bar is not a problem I think about very often. :)
 








 
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