New to this Forum and just got a SB Heavy 10

[fox32223]

Hi All!

I just picked up a early 1960's Heavy 10. Got lots of chucks and collets with it, and the taper attachment also was included. I am a complete novice to the heavy 10 so forgive me if these questions are silly.

1. It has a bracket that clamps on tot he ways that holds the collet tray, but is that the same bracket that the rod from the taper attachment attaches to? the diameter of the bracket (c-shape rod) is larger than the rod for the taper attachment, so is there a bushing missing or it a separate bracket that is missing?

2. The thread protector is missing, does anyone have a print on the OEM part? I found print for the 9A, but not the heavy 10. Weird thing about this is that they included the original South Bend Pin wrench for removing it!

3. Is that the original light that came from South Bend or is it something aftermarket? Trying to figure out if I should restore it or junk it.


4. WTB:

Steady Rest
Follower rest
Tail stock Wrench
Dogs for the face plates

If you have any of these, send me a PM, and no I won't pay the "eBay" price.

Thanks in Advance for any help you can provide!

Fox

 

[hrolen]

Fox,
Welcome to the forum! That is a nice machine! I am more familiar with the older "single tumbler" machines. Mine came in the same condition even though it was older than yours. I had the collet rack holder and no bed clamp for the taper attachment. I think they are the same casting. If I understand correctly babbit lead was poured in the two top holes when the attachment was indicated perpendicular to the bed. I think that you could use yours that way, but I'm not sure. I have not had much luck finding one for my lathe( but I haven't tried too hard). As for question 3 I would look for markings to identify the light. Those type of lights can be very desirable especially if they are from the same era as you machine. Mine had a Woodward fab articulating light that looked like it may have been on it forever. It turned out that the light was very desirable as it was a USA made light so I restored it.

4. Sorry I'm not much help with with the items you need, but don't overlook eBay. Every thing listed is not always over priced and sometimes simply finding the right part for your machine is worth a little more imho[emoji41]!

Overall, good luck, again looks like a nice machine.

HCR


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[promacjoe]

Welcome, you've come to the right place. There's a wealth of information here and a lot of good people that is willing to help. Or at least try. Since I don't have a heavy 10, I'm in that category. From what I understand the taper attachment bracket and the bracket for the collet tray is the same. The only problem is you will lose the drawbar holder if you use it for the taper attachment. As far as the So-called misfit on the bore of the bracket, no there's no bushing there. The taper attachment must be Correctly lined up and then Babbitt is poured to fill the gap. You can find a document telling you how to install the tapir attachment on a 9N, at

http://www.wswells.com/data/howto/9_taper_Install.pdf

and it should give you a few pointers on how to install it on your heavy 10. But I am not aware of any document for the heavy 10. Maybe someone else has a link to one, or maybe a copy that they can send you.

As far as general information on your machine, go to,

http://www.wswells.com/index.html

There is a lot of information there that should be helpful. And it's all free.

Remember, don't be afraid to ask questions. There are no silly questions if you don't know the answer. And it is better to ask, then to damage something.

Stay safe and have fun.

Joe.

 

[packardbill]

Hi fox32223. Nice looking lathe. I cant say for sure if the Taper attachment tie-rod clamp is exactly the same casting as the collet rack clamp, but i believe so. The hole is extra large because when you fit the taper attachment to the lathe, the tie-rod clamp gets babbit poured into the top holes to flow around the rod for a precision fit.As far as the thread protector...2.250" x 8 tpi internal thread, 5/16" wall thickness (or thicker if you like) with 4 holes drilled (end milled) 90* around circumference, insert collet adapter into spindle without tapping, and measure from end of threads to back face of adapter and leave enough clearance so thread protector does not contact back face of insert after "tapping" (I just use the palm of my hand when setting up for collet use) it in for use. Do not tap the spindle adapter in until you have a thread protector on. You don't want to bugger up the adapter or spindle interior with a bar while driving the adapter out. Hope this helps.PB

 

[packardbill]

They type faster

 

[gadget73]

Collet rack clamp and taper clamp are the same part. Need to pour the babbit so it fits right though.

I haven't seen that light, but it looks proper and useful. I'd clean it up and make use of it. My 10L is virtually identical to yours, other than I don't have that light and my clutch is a star wheel instead of the lever. I'd rather have the toggle lever.

Loosen the belt while its not in use. It'll stretch being under tension all the time. Handle on the front, swing it to the right.

 

[fox32223]

So what did you get if you purchased both both Collet hand wheel and the taper attachment? Did they give you two brackets?

 

[gadget73]

I expect so. The taper attachment's clamp has to move to various places along the bed, depending on where on the work you're turning a taper. The collet rack usually stays fixed at the far end. With the babbit in there, you wouldn't be able to put the drawbar hanger through anyway. If you can't find another clamp for the taper attachment, you can make use of the one for the collet rack as long as you don't mind re-locating the drawbar hanger.