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What's new

360 brass...

I was going to type something here but then thought why seems some people cant wipe there ass without asking which direction to do it

And to me that makes me think i have an "edge" on the competition so ill keep that edge while "other" operaters are asking "how to turn brass" ill be the one putting parts in machines and just getting on with it
 
Hey...

I DID IT!!!

3:56 is the cycle time so far...
The brass cuts like a dream!!!

So far, no problems...
The drill is not pulling the material out of the chucks opr anything like that... *crossing fingers*

Thanks for all the help...
 
Sayeth Mr. HuFlungDung,
At the risk of riling up Charlie Biler [Wink] , I do not advise working brass or bronze with positive rake tools. Neutral rake (and no chipbreaker required) is best to avoid nasty accidents, as well as improve the exit of a drill through a hole.(Endquote)

Sirs,
The age old argument of what angle and type of tool to use is one that has raged on for years. When the Armstrong brothers invented their little toolholder, the world stood still. Within a few years virtually all switched from the old fashioned stuff and forged tools became a lost art overnight.

At work I use mostly negative rake tools in quick change toolholders. I also use a lot of inserts for things that I should not be doing. At work I use hand ground tools about ten percent of the time. The guys watch in awe as I hand grind some form tool or cut in some little nook or cranny with my 'retro' lantern toolpost.

With the advent of high speed positive rake inserts; I have blended my old fashioned, and severly dated, ideas on high speed tools with CNC work. I personally have found that high speed tools last longer and cut better finishes in a lot of applications. I have switched over a lot of die hard carbide boys to my side of the war.

I never get hot when someone shows me a better way of doing things. Just because I am an opinionated bastard does not mean I am always right. Many times I experiment to see what works better for a particular job. I hope Solar71 learns to do a little experimentation and grow his knowledge base. One must adapt, or one will die a fool.

By the way, at home I use carbide about ten percent of the time. I rarely use insert tooling, at home. I also shoot idiots that disagree on my selection of drinks. If it is malted, it is for the horses. Even Toby Keith knows that. :cool:
 
Charlie, educate me a little, so when will a high speed bit outperform a carbide one. I can understand that it is easier to grind a custom tool, and to get a much more positive rake and even a sharper edge, which would work well on small diameter stuff, lower cutting force and low surface speed even at max spindle speed. I can see the better surface finish with a sharp cutting edge and huge positive rake on gummy stuff like 1018.

Are these the applications your talking about? Because I love my carbide, lathe or mill, but I'm always up for a few new tricks.
 
since solar is too stupid to look in the machinist's handbook i'll throw him this bone.
this is pretty much common sense so i'll spell it out.
brass is brittle and very abrasive. so what does this mean?
brittle=no chip breakers. just like cast iron. it also means no need for positive geometry. positive can be used without ill effects.

abrasive=no tin coated or cermet tool. use uncoated carbide. run turning velocity at a minimum of 1200sfpm. 1800 works great.

depth of cut is the full edge of the insert and feed at whatever your machine can handle. run wet or dry. dry makes easy chip cleanup. be sure to run with machine door open so you can see the huge stream of chips flying off.
im sure if you had looked in the book you would not have needed this thread. my guess is you just wanted a pat on the back for machining the easiest material in the world. perhaps next we can move up to delrin.
 
as usual you read nothing
of course this forum does not allow my to write with crayons
 
Pardon me for hijacking this thread. I hope to answer Bobw, and a few other person's questions. If the moderator disagrees, please delete, or move my responses. I am not up on board etiquette.

Bobw; high speed inserts are superior to carbide in many applications. A good use is in the cutting of inconel and many of the really gummy stainless grades. When used at slower surface speeds, they will last longer and are not prone to crack shatter, like ceramics and carbides. Gummy materials will cause a hammering effect and destroy the harder cutting materials. Some have pointed out, and I agree, that gummy materials grab and cause suck in and a hammer effect. I have seen loose tailstocks sucked in and carriages pulled in when cutting with positive rake tools. I have also seen negative rake carbides totally screw cast nylon, aluminum, and 360 brass when the cross section gets thin. Instead of cutting, they like to push the material away. Suddenly a 0.005" cut becomes a twenty thousanths cut after the push gets big enough. If the edge is not perfect; they will wipe the finish.

High speed steel is far superior in applications where there are intrerrupted cuts. Just today I took a piece of square sugar maple and tried to make tool handles. On the first pass, while I attempted to round a three inch square chunk, in a Sharp eighteen inch gear head lathe, the Kennametal negative rake cutter bit broke off from the vibration. I was pissed because that was my last good cutter bit insert. I had to get an old piece of 3/8" M2 and grind a roundnose tool. I then put the cutter in the Aloris holder to finish the task. A seven dollar insert was shattered by wood and a castoff chunk of M2, that I brought from home, made a perfect job.

Carbide and ceramic suck at slower spindle speeds. I have to make parts on many underpowered and slow RPM machines. My employer's Bridgeport CNC will not go much over 4000 RPM without disaster. For today's machines, that is a snail's pace. The Jet lathes at work will not take carbide. The less than rigid toolposts, and slop, snap carbide like a sledgehammer. At home I use South Bend lathes and those old belt slappers are rigid enough for carbide. Unfortunately the spindles are turning at Model-T and 490 Chevy speeds. They do better with T-15 inserts or M2 ground bits. Negative rake eats horsepower and many machines, even new CNC machines, do not have the horses.

I use positive rake inserts in shell mills to get good finishes. Many times I just remove all but one insert. Guys laugh when I face aluminum in a CNC mill and use a fly cutter and a piece of T-15 for a bit. It is like the perfect meld of ancient artifact sticking on a quickchange #30 shank. That old tool sits in the tool lineup sandwiched in with all that new high tech stuff.

I bore deep holes with solid carbide bars, while there is a nib of old round M2 on the end. The positive rake M2 does not eat horsepower. That means less deflection with less passes.

Every farm boy knows that the old herd dogs are over the hill. They are blind, slow, and weak. A retriever, belgian, or any fighting dog comes head on. The old border collie will circle around and get you from behind. They turn a weakness into an asset. I have seen an old fawn collie whip a three year angus bull, in the bull's pen. After a few well placed nips to the balls and other tender parts; the bull was ready for a halter.

High speed steel and shaped W1 are old. Their time has passed. That does not mean they can not adapt and overcome. Most fellows today think of M1, M2, T-15, and W1 as crap. All they have ever seen is chinese mystery metal and the cutter bits that have the good stuff at the minimum of the grade spec. Take a walk on the wild side. Buy a few quality T-15 inserts for your tools. What can go wrong? They will cost a lot less than the latest exotic insert. If they last half as long, they still are the better buy. The bottom line is cost per cut. Who cares if the insert lasts all day? The purchase price eats into your profit. Just throw the high speed insert away every four hours. It is cheap. Adaptability is just a bonus for you.
 
solar, what did you end up with your feeds and speeds?

can't you push that insert drill any harder...? what's it pulling on the spindle load?
 
Yes inferior machines don't always benefit from new cutting technologies, so use the cheap stuff.
Then again sometimes they do. The trick is knowing when to use what.

I have several old Cam Screw Machines at my place and they all pretty much use HSS tooling that is form ground. Those machines in the correct hands will put my CNC's in the dust and hold some pretty decent tolerances. It's truly amazing to watch my setup guy grind a tool to contour the OD and chamfer both ends at the same time, and the tools last for thousands of pcs.
 
to rothrandir...

for the 1.312 insert drill...
cuting .500 deep through...
G97 S1600
G99 F.005

The load meter is showing about 25-30% max...
Reason i dont go faster is , i read some people saying that an insert can Grab Brass and pull it out at high feeds... So i am taking it easy...

OD roughing...
G96 S600
G99 F.010
DOC .0625 (.125 dia)

OD finishing...
G96 S900
G99 F.005
DOC .0312 (.062 dia)

ID roughing/finishing...
Same as OD...

M00 (flip part around)

G50 W.080
Machine
Machine
Machine

Tool change
G50 W.080 (again)
Machine
Machine
Machine

M30
%



about 3 1/2 minutes

thanks

PS : did i mention, Little gold sand all over the F*cking PLACE!!! HAHAHAHAHahaha

The inside of my machine looks like i just struck it rich!!!

lol
 
i read some people saying that an insert can Grab Brass and pull it out at high feeds
you read something? or did someone read something to you?
your feeds/ speeds/ and doc are rediculously slow as are you.
the only time brass will pull out of the jaws is when you did not take the time to make proper jaws. since you have no thread here on how to bore jaws i can safely assme you did not do it properly. learn how to be a real machinist moron. the little blue machinery handbook was written for a reason. last i checked there was no "solar know's best" pink thumb tab on my book but i could be mistaken.
 
And there is no way in hell i want to be anywhere near an operater who has to ask how to turn brass
i cant belive hes allowed to actually look at a cnc let alone run one

Pi let him run it slow cause the shop next door will do it for 3/4 the price of his outfit and then his boss might learn something as well as solar That is off course a VERY BIG "MIGHT"
 
your an idiot dude...

im learning...
dont you know that ?
i dont have 5, or 10, or 20 years experience...
i have about 9 months without any formal training...

And im running this cnc machine better then anyone else in this shop...

Maybe the reason my boss lets me run the cnc machines without any real experience is... Maybe he sees that im good at it...

Some people have natural abbilities...
i know im not experienced as most of you guys are... But without knowing much about machining at all, i am abble to make really nice, accurate parts and half the time some of the other guys can do it... And i very rarely crash the machine... Not saying i have not had a few minor crashes... But in general i am very carefull with the machine... I dont break stuff, and i dont scrap parts...

So even though i know nothing about machining, im still doing it... and im doing it well...

So go f*ck yourself loser...
 
your an idiot dude...
dont be so hard on yourself

im learning...
no you're not
give a dumba'ss the answer and you will have to answer stupid questions everyday.
teach a dumba'ss how to find the answer for himself and the dumba'ss goes away.
you have been told how to get the answers and you still can't figure it out. so i guess calling yourself an idiot is on target.


i have about 9 months without any formal training...
after 1 month i was doing all my own setups and programming. no formal or informal training.

And im running this cnc machine better then anyone else in this shop...
when i go to the old folks home i win all the armwrestling matches too.

Maybe the reason my boss lets me run the cnc machines without any real experience is... Maybe he sees that im good at it...
maybe he sees you're willing to do it for alot less money.

Some people have natural abbilities...
you are taking things out of context again. no one accused you of having natural abilities

And i very rarely crash the machine...
rarely having sex with another man still means you are a ************ no matter how often you get lucky


I dont break stuff, and i dont scrap parts...
yes you do


So even though i know nothing about machining, im still doing it
just because i have sex does not mean i'm a porno star


So go f*ck yourself loser...
ok. but wont your mama be upset when she finds out you sent me her christmas gift?
 
So even though i know nothing about machining, im still doing it... and im doing it well...
Doing it very well too i see i hope the whole machining world gets full of operaters JUST like you then i can demand my $100 an hour :D :D

Chill the Fcuk out man and go read something or even worse chuck some **** in your machine and EXPEREMENT find out something for yourself thats how i found out how to machine various materials
 
I quit offering any kind of info/advise to solar a while ago due to his poor online manners and lack of gratefulness(his spelling and terminology may have been the straw that broke this camels back) ;) .

That being said, He has made quite an effort in all areas. It actually takes a bit of pushing before he flares now.(Which you lads have succeeded in doing ;) ) His spelling and use of correct terminology has improved a LOT. He is much more appreciative of the help he receives. If I could have even gotten some of the knuckleheads that have worked under me in years past to even ask some of the questions he does I would have been tickled. Give the guy a break. Pi I don't doubt that you're a sharp feller but don't embarrass yourself by acting like you had it all figured out in a month. I learned to ride a bike in an afternoon but I sure as hell wasn't ready for a tour de france.

Ted
 








 
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