quasi
Stainless
- Joined
- Dec 18, 2003
- Location
- Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Dunlap's book Gunsmithing has some barrel making info that appears to be plagiarized from Howe's book as well.
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Dunlap's book Gunsmithing has some barrel making info that appears to be plagiarized from Howe's book as well.
There is also electrolytic rifling. Similar to EDM. It makes things like gain twist simple, as all grooves are cut in a single pass. Its more expensive than button rifling, but doesn't leave any stresses in the barrel.
SS,
There is not a man on earth that can tell you a barrel is going to be a shooter. If that were possible, I would be a rich man.
Butch
Butch,
With your experience I can't believe you are just fitting barrels willy nilly only using if the outside of the barrel is straight or not. Where are you drawing the line? I have adopted Gordy's methods of qualifying barrels and I can tell you which ones have a low probability of outstanding accuracy and those will be exchanged. The only important thing I can't measure precisely is the consistency of the twist rate. Using a combination of his and Tannel's chambering methods which I also use to fit brakes or cut any crown other than 90 degree, I have yet to get a dud.
The curved barrel really isn't a factor when it comes to accuracy. It's really more cosmetic unless you are chambering in a steady and then run out is important especially if you are not using a floating reamer holder. In fact if I was rejecting anything with a measurable curve about 99 percent would be rejected.
I have a handful of culled barrels that were culled by the manufacturer due to run out and as an experiment this coming winter I'm going to fit up the worst one for curve and see how it shoots. I might even put it in the press and really bend it. Something like .250" in 20" after fitting it just to prove the curve doesn't hurt actual group size. I will then continue to bend it more and more until it won't group anymore. It should be an interesting project.
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