Phase Perfect dpc-a10

[thermite]

.. hey he who dies with the most tools wins.....right?

Lawsters as they are, I didn't have time nor energy either one to make that climb into the attic and bring along the 'tronics goods I do NOT use since giving-up board-level repairs ages ago. It isn't much, so it isn't heavy.

I can make up a package for FRB.

Largest item is sumthin called a PCB "panavise" with ball-swivel as can be clamped. This one was modified "back in the day" with longer square tubing to manage the big boards I once dealt with. Really handy being able to put a PCB at more useful angle for safer and easier working, not have it wandering about.

 

[Hardplates]

Lawsters as they are, I didn't have time nor energy either one to make that climb into the attic and bring along the 'tronics goods I do NOT use since giving-up board-level repairs ages ago. It isn't much, so it isn't heavy.

I can make up a package for FRB.

Largest item is sumthin called a PCB "panavise" with ball-swivel as can be clamped. This one was modified "back in the day" with longer square tubing to manage the big boards I once dealt with. Really handy being able to put a PCB at more useful angle for safer and easier working, not have it wandering about.

Sounds great! Let me know when its ready and the box size and I'll email you a prepaid shipping label.

 

[thermite]

Sounds great! Let me know when its ready and the box size and I'll email you a prepaid shipping label.

Monday, probably. Found the extended PanaVise, at least. No need on shipping - too much hassle.

Just pay it forward some future day by helping another person you consider more likely to be a winner than a whiner. That might sound bass-ackwards to a legion of pious "altruista" or as a bud, one P.J. O'Rourke once classed them: "sandalistas", but I am not they.

The perpetually needy simply absorb help, n'er a bit of it to reappear, with or without the least bit of "interest" on the loan of it.

The go-getters of this Earth, by contrast will succeed in life, and help MANY others who will do the same, again. Pass it on, repeat range, and "fire for effect".

I'm good with that. N'er was a need of wasting time at keeping score, after all. Got other s**t yet to do...

 

[Hardplates]

Monday, probably. Found the extended PanaVise, at least. No need on shipping - too much hassle.

Just pay it forward some future day by helping another person you consider more likely to be a winner than a whiner. That might sound bass-ackwards to a legion of pious "altruista" or as a bud, one P.J. O'Rourke once classed them: "sandalistas", but I am not they.

The perpetually needy simply absorb help, n'er a bit of it to reappear, with or without the least bit of "interest" on the loan of it.

The go-getters of this Earth, by contrast will succeed in life, and help MANY others who will do the same, again. Pass it on, repeat range, and "fire for effect".

I'm good with that. N'er was a need of wasting time at keeping score, after all. Got other s**t yet to do...

Copy that, the winner to whiner ratio seems to be getting worse and worse

Been quite busy between going back to college and doing enough work to pay the bills. Oh and a OKK PCV-40 machining center followed me home the other weekend. I will be getting back to the phase perfect project in the near future, just lots of pokers on the fire.

 

[DavidScott]

Another thanks to RustySparks for the Operation and Installation manual, the manual that came with my PP didn't have the section on Care and Maintenance that covers the line filter capacitors, in fact it has zero information about them.

Question time, I got new capacitors that Hardplates gave me an Amazon link to saying these were in his DCP-10 unit. I got them in yesterday and am now getting ready to install them. The newer manual states 40uf capacitors but the ones I just got are 20uf as are the ones in my PP. Since I am a virtual idiot when it comes to electronics please confirm these capacitors are the same, the CDE is from my PP. And does it matter which side the wires are connected to? I do know enough to connect them back to the different terminals, I just don't know if there is a difference between the two terminals on the capacitor. I have more photos and each wire is marked where it came from so I can replace everything exactly how I found it.


They didn't make it easy getting to these things.

 

[Hardplates]

Another thanks to RustySparks for the Operation and Installation manual, the manual that came with my PP didn't have the section on Care and Maintenance that covers the line filter capacitors, in fact it has zero information about them.

Question time, I got new capacitors that Hardplates gave me an Amazon link to saying these were in his DCP-10 unit. I got them in yesterday and am now getting ready to install them. The newer manual states 40uf capacitors but the ones I just got are 20uf as are the ones in my PP. Since I am a virtual idiot when it comes to electronics please confirm these capacitors are the same, the CDE is from my PP. And does it matter which side the wires are connected to? I do know enough to connect them back to the different terminals, I just don't know if there is a difference between the two terminals on the capacitor. I have more photos and each wire is marked where it came from so I can replace everything exactly how I found it.


View attachment 265756View attachment 265757 They didn't make it easy getting to these things.

AC caps are not polar so the terminals are the same, with a polar capacitor the negative side is generally denoted by the stripe down the side of the cap.

If you take the screws out of the sides and bottom you can slide the plate forward a few inches for better access to the caps. Be mindful of the wires that run by the heatsink down to the fan as they have a tendency to get stuck in the heatsink fins.

The caps you purchased should have the same performance characteristics as the ones that came out. I don't know why the manual says 40uF. They may work better but not knowing I figure you can't go wrong replacing them with the same thing that is there. Maybe someone else has some ideas on this but that's my reasoning. Why risk trying 40uf is we know 20uf works. The caps should be tuned to the inductors in LC filter......I think

 

[DavidScott]

Thanks for the information. I can't get to the far left bottom sheet metal screw but did remove the 4 1/4" side screws and one sheet metal screw next to the fans so I could rotate the plate forward just enough to get the capacitor out.

I wonder if the later DCP-10 units changed to 40uf? The manual certainly changed. I just looked and my manual says DCP-A10.

 

[SND]

That must have been a very early unit? my DCP-A10 doesn't look like that in the capacitor area.
When I got new caps last year from PP I do remember a mistake in the manual and pretty sure the new ones sent were 20uf, I'll double check later today.

 

[thermite]

Thanks for the information. I can't get to the far left bottom sheet metal screw but did remove the 4 1/4" side screws and one sheet metal screw next to the fans so I could rotate the plate forward just enough to get the capacitor out.

I wonder if the later DCP-10 units changed to 40uf? The manual certainly changed. I just looked and my manual says DCP-A10.

Needs investigated.

I can see type or maker being changed for reasons.

I can see Voltage or ripple rating being changed for reasons.

I have a harder time figuring out why they would DOUBLE the capacitance, given there is a bit of "tuning" involved, and that DOUBLE is a non-trivial change.

 

[DavidScott]

That must have been a very early unit? my DCP-A10 doesn't look like that in the capacitor area.
When I got new caps last year from PP I do remember a mistake in the manual and pretty sure the new ones sent were 20uf, I'll double check later today.

Mine was delivered around March 2004, serial # 142.

 

[jamesdaugherty]

I robbed one of the new current sensors for my old board and the unit now cycles on normally and the contactor closes and the green light is on, but L1-L2 242 volts but L1-L3 and L2-L3 are 120 volts. Not sure if it needs a load on it or if it has something to do with the board being remotely mounted and no wires going through the current sensors but we are headed in the right direction......I think

Where on the board is this sensor?

 

[Garwood]

Where on the board is this sensor?

Paul posts on the machinistboard site. Reach out to him there with your questions.

 

[jamesdaugherty]

I am putting the manuals and troubleshooting guide for the next guy who tries to fix one of these. I have rebuilt the unit.
1. It started with the contractor clacking every 20 seconds and then a red blinking light. I was a relay $20 bucks.
2. I replaced all the Aluminum Electrolytic Caps. Easy for me.
I do board level surface mount stuff.

It now fires up with a green light but it outputs L1-L2(240V) L1-L3(120VL2-L3(117V)

Once I get it fixed I will put up my notes for the next guy.