So I guess my question here is, can I braze this without softening the HSS teeth or will the teeth heat up and lose temper before I've bonded the arbor to the central hole?
okay its here!
The ground ring in the middle is about 0.002" thicker than the teeth.
In a dream world, I would like to do something easy and controllable...like how about this:
-make an arbor that is just undersize (whatever is appropriate) the 1" hole in the saw, with a keyseat so it can...
totally different direction but maybe it spurs an idea:
the holes occur because when the drill gets to the bottom there is nothing preventing the bottom of the material from moving away from the drill instead of getting cut by it, since its so thin. Eventually the drill actually protrudes and...
The thing about the math is that I am not sure how many parts I'd get out of a $300 harvey tool. I have no experience machining this sort of operation with a tool like that. I suppose it has lots of teeth so I would hazard a guess that I'd get alot more cuts out of it than a typical 4 flute end...
I'm not trying to make it more complicated believe me, just trying to figure out what problems I will run into.
The idea of using a 5C collet 'something' is appealing because the accuracy should be there, and it would also let me clamp a test bar end-to-end to align the fixture before replacing...
okay so to be clear this would be tombstone mounted so it rotates on its long axis, and the drill/ream/pin is for alignment of the tombstone with mating features on the bearing support blocks that lock it to a certain rotation right?
yes I really must avoid indicating ops unless its super fast...
Okay so I get a normal slitting saw of my reqd dia (3") with a normal hole (1")
I get an arbor for 1"
Install it in the saw so its flush with the bottom.
Tig weld in place.
Concentricity is maintained by the bore? Doesnt the top and bottom surfaces of the saw provide some alignment and...
I need to make a circular slot that has a 1.5" radius. Tough part is that I can't reach deep enough into the cut if the shaft is bigger than 3/4".
So I think that means I need a blade with a 1/2" diameter hole. Unobtanium?? I dont want to pay $300 for a custom blade from harvey as this is a...
Yes I'm going to work something up. I'm just getting familiar with this part. I might need to work on how the part will be fixtured to this trunnion first, since I'm not actually sure how I need to do that yet.
I definitely do not have a big budget for this workholding. At least the machining...
Nice thank you for all that!! That looks like what I'm thinking (the 4 axis one), except I'm hoping to get away with a manual indexer of some sort.
So, as far as being able to resist cutting forces how about:
-bearing blocks like that video
-platform supported on the bearings that allows...
So I am working on a project where there is a part about the size of a paperback.
It has several holes and other geometries that would require several angled setups, although thankfully, it would only need to be rotated around one axis.
This makes me think I could make a simple indexing jig...
this wins so far I'd say...I am going to remember this and I bet one day I use that idea
for drill press stuff I didnt mean so much many holes simultaneously (although those are impressive), I meant like some sort of multi-axis fixture that would let an unskilled operator clamp the part, then...
I'm talking things like:
a) drill press fixtures that go above and beyond (i.e. making multiple holes at different angles quickly using a fixture that precisely locates at certain positions)
b) fixtures that use a bench grinder to do something impressive
c) basically anything that uses a...
since it sounds like you are building out your home shop for the first time have you considered the following:
-space for bandsaw, drillpress, air compressor, 3 phase converter (if needed), tool cart, stock/other storage, workbench
-fresh air supply (cant do any real machining in a garage that...
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