heavy 10 cross-feed problem

[someone else]

i have the parts in the first pic. and the second is the cross-feed shaft.
the cross-feed hand wheel freely rotates on the cross-feed shaft with the adjustment lock screw (i guess?) fully threaded in to the cross-feed hand wheel.
the tiny dot between the cross-feed wheel and the pin on the right is brass and was stuck in the bottom of the threaded hole in the cross-feed wheel but not into the bushing. i want to presume that brass dot is there to keep the thumb lock screw from damaging the cross-feed shaft. although the cross-feed shaft has a hole thru it where the pin on the far right of the first pic was in. nothing was tight and pushed out easy, but nothing in this setup caused the cross-feed wheel to lock in any adjustment.
clearly the bushing goes into the cross-feed hand wheel center. that part works fine.
the pin does not look sheared off on the ends so am fairly sure that no breakage had occurred, also the other probably will have been severely damaged in the process, maybe. it might take a lot of pressure to shear that pin.
so no breakage presumed and since the current combination of parts does not work, what is supposed to be in the hand wheel for the adjustment lock in to the cross-feed shaft?
any observation? possibly a pic of what i have to make?
thank you

 

[Wundermech]

I think you’re missing the pin that locks the bushing to the shaft. Looks like everything is there to lock the index wheel to the bushing.

 

[SLK001]

Yes, there is a brass shoe that goes in that hole (1/8" diameter) that makes the contact to the shaft. It often falls out when the locking screw is out. The parts diagram shows a pin in there also, but I just made the brass pin long enough to make contact with both the lock screw (#7) and the shaft.

 

[someone else]

hmmm, according to the silk 1's diagram i am missing number 6. i have 13 far right side of the pic. i am missing the pin that connects the lock screw to the brass dot.
so what is the purpose of drilling a whole in a shaft and then re-filling it with a pin that does nothing else?
further...once i tighten the lock screw that pushes the median pin to the button, then into the bushing hole space i guess to push in to the pin in the shaft? then when i loosen the lock screw what pulls the brass button and the median pin back up to release the direct read graduate collar?
seems simpler to put one single longer screw shaft in the hole instead of the two pieces.
also where do i get one of these pins?

 

[someone else]

Yes, there is a brass shoe that goes in that hole (1/8" diameter) that makes the contact to the shaft. It often falls out when the locking screw is out. The parts diagram shows a pin in there also, but I just made the brass pin long enough to make contact with both the lock screw (#7) and the shaft.

View attachment 394069

where did you happen upon this blow-up? seem to be a good item for me to have so i can call parts by the proper names an make less confusing breeze than i normally do.

 

[SLK001]

so what is the purpose of drilling a whole in a shaft and then re-filling it with a pin that does nothing else?

You're missing the "hole" picture. The "shoe", part #5, is like a brake shoe. It uses friction to lock the dial to the shaft. There is no "whole" in the shaft for pin #6 to fill.

 

[someone else]

i understand part #5's role, but i do not understand part #13's role. why drill the hole in the shaft in the first place if it is just going to be filled with the pin #13?

do i need part #13 in that position or can i move that up to part #6's place and just leave the open hole in the shaft?

 

[SLK001]

Part #13 is used to pin part #14 to the shaft. Part #14 is the Cross Feed Sleeve.

Here's a better picture of these parts:

 

[someone else]

yep that seems right, but it did not help at all. #13 was in place, but the crossfeed sleeve spun free and removed with the #14 graduate collar.

so then the #5 pressed against the crossfeed sleeve and not directly touching the crossfeed shaft?

also #6 extension pin is still not present.

i intend to find a piece of brass rod that will fit to replace both #5 and #6 and just make it longer as you did. that seems simple enough.

 

[SLK001]

Part #13 was in place? I can't ever imagine enough force being applied (by a human) to shear that pin. But I see in your pics that is wasn't sheared, so why wasn't it holding the sleeve in place? How long is your pin and what is the diameter of the sleeve where the pin inserts? These two measurements should be very close to one another.

 

[someone else]

i mis-spoke. i slid the sleeve onto the shaft an #13 pin is just long enough to the outside diameter of the sleeve both ends and lock the sleeve. so the sleeve/#13 pin are good.

i get the brass rod and slice a 1/2 inch piece and place the graduated collar on the sleeve and thumb screw it tight. the collar still spins free. i use a screw driver and tighten it with much more force than i thought i was going to have to use and the collar sits still. but now i can pull the collar and shaft assembly out 1/2 inch to the front, or i can pull the shaft assembly out to the front first and then tighten the collar and then there is no front/back motion. seems as though it rotates well pulled out so i guess that is how it sits.

i have a taper attachment (i think, matching a video i looked up) so i am going to presume that the cross feed graduated collar assembly is #8 and shaft is #9 the top picture set in the diagram.

 

[SLK001]

i get the brass rod and slice a 1/2 inch piece and place the graduated collar on the sleeve and thumb screw it tight. the collar still spins free.

Make sure that there aren't remnants of an old shoe swaged in the hole. Also, the brass rod should be flat on both ends.

 

[someone else]

i did not put back the #5 one i found way at the top of this. the ends seem flat i just cut the edge a bit lightly. i can always run line them on some emory.