Packing two 1 5/8" linear ball bearings in a 4.085 hole. One on each end. How to secure? Or just do it another way?

[rons]

Linear ball bearing 6262K85.

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

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I could stuff one on each side of a 4.085 hole (.750). And hope they don't fall out. Is there a better way to do this.
The retaining rings (external) are useful for 1" long holes.

 

[Limy Sami]

Internal circlips?

 

[Peter Neill]

Definitely internal circlips, it’s the usual way to do this. And a spacer in the middle so they don’t move

 

[Bill D]

Internal circlip at each end. length of pipe in between. That is how my grinder spindle is made except just a push fit. Nothing really holds the bearings in except friction. But it is low speed like 4,000 RPM, side load with very little end load.
Bill D

 

[rons]

Retaining ring for item 6262K85:

The external ring has no holes on the ends. No like this style even though it's not what I need.
MSC and Grainger have very limited selection.

 

[DrHook]

If YOU are boring the hole they fit in, leave the id slightly undersized as an internal stop, and use a flathead screw or two on the outside as a retainer if an internal snap ring won't work.

 

[Peter Neill]

Retaining ring for item 6262K85:

The external ring has no holes on the ends. No like this style even though it's not what I need.
MSC and Grainger have very limited selection.

I'd use a D1300/0320 ISO/Metric circlip - this is nominally for a 32mm bore but will work fine in 1.25"(31.75mm) and will allow a 22.9mm (0.902") shaft through the middle when in position.

I looked on McMaster and they have them here:

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

 

[rons]

I'd use a D1300/0320 ISO/Metric circlip - this is nominally for a 32mm bore but will work fine in 1.25"(31.75mm) and will allow a 22.9mm (0.902") shaft through the middle when in position.

I looked on McMaster and they have them here:

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

Thanks Peter and all others.

 

[Limy Sami]

If anyones interested, there's a simple way (for me!) of getting 2 circlips ''just the right distance apart''

 

[macchi7]

Come on Sami, let us in on your secret!

 

[Limy Sami]

Come on Sami, let us in on your secret!

Isn't much, but we used to do this on conveyor rollers, it cuts out ''silly'' mistakes.

Turn up a ''dummy'' bearing / what have you, exactly the same length as the proper bearing but a few thou smaller so it slides in the bore.

Then machine your stop or inner circlip by direct measurement, slip in the dummy and ''touching'' the end face with the grooving tool will give you the exact position of the outer groove.

 

[ratbldr427]

I do that all the time,saves time. On internal grooves cut the outer groove then use the bearing or whatever goes in between the carriage stop and and carriage and then back off the ring thickness + clearance , same for external. Basically like before DRO's measuring rods were used. Adjustable parallels are easy to work with, just set it to the bearing width +ring. They are easier to to use than the part.

 

[sfriedberg]

use the bearing or whatever goes in between the carriage stop and and carriage and then back off the ring thickness + clearance

I use that exact technique on my Nichols hand mill as it has hardstops for both X motion and head vertical motion (technically Y, as the machine is a horizontal, in/out is Z).

 

[rons]

For this bearing the elongated circular tracks hold the balls. The balls move around the fixed track.
Will the guide bar develop a visible wear pattern? Or is that just the way it is.

I need to bore a 4.085 long 1.250 diameter hole in two blocks of 6061 which are the size of the wood pieces.
My two 4 jaw chucks are too small so I made a face plate out of some scrap and was going to attach angle aluminum and hold the piece.
My thought was to rough drill the hole first and take light cuts with a long boring bar.
How to mount a piece with finished sides and not damage it?

 

[Limy Sami]

For this bearing the elongated circular tracks hold the balls. The balls move around the fixed track.
Will the guide bar develop a visible wear pattern? Or is that just the way it is.

I wouldn't worry too much about that, ............ with reasonable operating conditions and maintenance they'll probably see you off this mortal coil.

 

[eKretz]

For this bearing the elongated circular tracks hold the balls. The balls move around the fixed track.
Will the guide bar develop a visible wear pattern? Or is that just the way it is.

I need to bore a 4.085 long 1.250 diameter hole in two blocks of 6061 which are the size of the wood pieces.
My two 4 jaw chucks are too smallso I made a face plate out of some scrap and was going to attach angle aluminum and hold the piece.
My thought was to rough drill the hole first and take light cuts with a long boring bar.
How to mount a piece with finished sides and not damage it?

They will probably develop a visible wear pattern, but in my experience it will just be visible, not very deep - if you buy the legit linear shafting that is. That stuff is as hard as a coffin nail.

If your 4-jaw won't work you can set up the face plate with a block or angle plate bolted to it and clamp to that or something similar. The aluminum angle might work too, but it won't be as rigid.

 

[rons]

Anyone made a face plate / fixture setup for general purpose use.
Is there a professional design for what is going on in post #14.

 

[eKretz]

I've made plenty of faceplate fixtures. A large faceplate is a good thing to have. The one in your photo is very much on the small side for the size of part you're looking to fixture. You need a pattern of holes in your angle plate for bolting things on. Then you can make a block to pull the part up against, ideally using its mounting holes.

Optionally, you can also use the threaded holes in the angle plate to clamp the workpiece down tight against the plate if you need more rigidity. For high quantity parts I used to use toggle clamps, but for just a couple parts I'd probably use bolts and then larger thick machined washers as the clamps.

 

[rons]

If YOU are boring the hole they fit in, leave the id slightly undersized as an internal stop, and use a flathead screw or two on the outside as a retainer if an internal snap ring won't work.

Now I understand this. You mean bore the center section where a pipe would fit, undersized.
Then bore length of bearing from each side. Very nice. The pipe idea is nice too.

 

[rons]

I ordered four 440 SS bearings and the four internal rings suggested by Peter.