The counter bore and the turning down of the OD you can do in the lathe, but if that's the only machine you have, short answer no. You might be able to drill the radial detail at the end (slot thing), bit you will need a drill press and I am not sure a drill will fit your part, didn't look real close.
The radial cut-out doesn't necessarily have to be that exact size, but can be close, so I'll have to see if there's a bit that will fit the job.
Good grief...toss that horrible tool set!!! Seriously!
tell me what type and size tool post you have and I'll link some good cutting tools.
What diameter and bore is your tubing before machining?
I would agree it's a rather junky set! They were like 25 bucks and I purchased them to make sure the machine works before investing more $$ into the machine. This was my grandfather's lathe, which I don't think he used that often, then sat for about 30 years with a heap of junk all around and on top of it. I just got the area cleaned up, the machine cleaned up and oiled. I want to try and use the existing tool holder if possible, I think it might be able to hold 1/2" shanks because the 3/8" shanks need shims to be secured, although 1/2" might not leave enough room for tool height adjustment (unless there is another way to do this?) Anyway here's a picture:
Sharp HSS tools would be fine. As Iwana+ said, cheap carbide tools aren't going to do you any favors in aluminum; where you want truly sharp tools.
As for your part, I'd be inclined to make it in two pieces.
The detailed bit would hold nicely in a collet -- you'll just need a decent small boring bar. It could also be done in your 3jaw - best if it had machinable jaws. If you take my suggestion (below) about two pieces, you'll have to flip the end part to machine a recess and will want to maintain jaw grip location for concentricity. Depending on your chuck and tolerances, that could work.
The long tube might be near enough a stock item to avoid boring the ID and maybe even finishing the OD. Just make a step to join the two pieces and glue, braze, TIG, whatever. If you need to turn the long tube, do it between centers. Boring that length without special tooling would be difficult and it does't appear the ID for the length of the tube (and maybe the OD) is a critical dimension. You could also glue/braze/weld ahead of time and just stuff the long tube into your spindle. Your 3 jaw may or may not keep the tube and end concentric -- you could fiddle with shims or just buy the 4 jaw chuck you ought to have anyhow.
The notch looks to be a secondary milling operation, though it could stay in the lathe if you made a broaching tool, had a Versamil, added a live spindle, etc.
It looks like I will be able to get tube stock with the exact bore size I need, although I might need to lap or do some kind of polishing or reaming to get it cleaned up (I've had to ream other stock from prior batches and its a nightmare lol) Please link me to some tools that will give either the DOM tubing, aluminum tubing, or 4130 tubing a smooth finish.
Amen to that. If the 3/8" in that picture denote the shank size then none of those tools will even fit in the bore the OP wants to make. The
smaller bore is about .285"--it's going to take a pretty small bar to fit in that. I wonder how many beginners get sucked in to buying one of
those cheap and useless kits? Too many I suspect.
I hate to say it because I'm not a fan of HSS but in this case even that would be
a better choice...
I'm getting samples from a potential tubing supplier soon, hopefully the bore will be within the required tolerance and I won't have to mess with the inside dimension. I would love to see some HSS recommendations (I haven't learned how to grind tools yet, but I hope to learn in the future)
Need a very sharp and proper rake angle to cut a thin wall long part so likely HSS bit best. Is it a one up or production part? can your 3 jaw get down to needed run out tolerance of the ID bores and steps to OD?
Agree a drill press if the radius detail is a segment of a straight in side bore. Yes a lathe vice can do that but a little tricky . also a little tricky on a drill press.
9" long may need a follow of sorts.. perhaps a nylon brace if not having a steady. Out end might be better served with a centered plug rather than just a live center in the tube bore.
You can make a one-up collect to go into your 3 jaw if your chuck is not true enough..Just a saw-slot slug with a bore made to hold the part. Yes having a steady you can do the big end toward the tail and the small end in the chuck with the centered centered slug in place so tube can't collapse ..
This is going to be a production part, I'm going to make at least a few hundred in the near term, maybe even more down the road. Hopefully I wont have to mess with the bore (I think I can get the correct tolerance ID from a supplier). I like the idea of plugging or filling the inside of the tube with something to stabilize the work better (thanks!).
Are there any tolerances? That could make a big difference in how you set it up or if you even want to attempt it.
The tolerances can vary +/- about .3mm for the detailed work on the end. I can do the counterbores with a 5/16 and 9/32 drill bit and stay within tolerances (hopefully) I'm assuming I can do that on the lathe with the bits placed in the tailstock, although the critical part will be getting correct (and repeatable) depth of cut. It might be better to do it on a drill press in a collet block.
The main thing I'm worried about is getting a clean cut on the OD.